Carb kit install on 79 GS1000

[Anonymous]

Hi All,

First the #2 carb was overflowing, I would tap it, and then the problem would go away. But now the problem has extended itself to the #1 and #3 carbs, is it the floats or should I get the carb kits and do it myself, or should just let the guys at the shop take care of it?

[SqDancerLynn1]

First clean the gas tank, petcock filter and install an inline fuel filter.
Then try and flush the carbs----- Fill them with fuel, then turn the fuel valve off or plug the vacuum line. Run the motor untill it runs out. do this 2-3 times. If they are still overflowing it is time to remove them. If you don't know the history of the carbs go ahead and renew them with new carb kits

[Joe Nardy]

Herr General,

Do the kit yourself! Between the carb cleaning instructions and the unbelievable knowledge base of this site you will easily complete the task. It really isn't that difficult......disassembly and re-assembly. Take your time, be organized, make drawings or better yet, take digital pics.

Good Luck,
Joe

[Anonymous]

I found out what was going on.

I was running rich, and needed carb kits for each carb, but what was worse was that rusts was straight through the filter. It was so fine, almost like talcum powder, that it was pooling in the float bowls and causing everything to jam up.

I now have to get the tank coated on top of my other expenses. Oh well.

Thanks

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you are going to coat the tank check this out

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=306

[Anonymous]

gs 1000 carbs

I am just now going through the same thing, carbs overflowing, bad gas
mileage, bad smell from exhaust pipes. It even continues for a while after engine is turned off.

I pulled the carbs off and took the bowls, floats and needle valves apart and cleaned everything.

There was some rust like you described in the bowls. Not real bad but
noticeable. There was hardly any rust on the petcock screens though.

I also drained and shook the fuel tank. There was some rust chips
sliding around.

I got a quote of $140 from a radiator shop to clean and reline the tank.

I bought the 3 bottle Kreem reliner kit for $30 instead.

I should have it back together next week sometime.

One question: Can I use the regular fuel cap to seal the filler hole during
this process? Or will it ruin the gas cap somehow?

Rich

[SqDancerLynn1]

You need to remove the petcock, fuel sending unit, and gas cap before you coat the tank. Make some plugs to cover the openings. You don't need to cover the gas cap opening. The cream will work Ok DON'T RUSH THE JOB let the tank coating dry for 2-3 days before you try to use it. DO IT OUTSIDE lots of fumes

[terry]

Good advice Lynn, also be careful while you're swishing around the cleaner (acid) and the drying agent M.E.K, (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) it's like super strong paint thinner, smells great but will probably kill you if you inhale it, and like thinners, it eats most paint.

When I was swishing it around in a tank a couple of years ago, some splashed on the "ball and chain's" car, and before I had time to tip some water over it to neutralise it, it had bubbled up her paint. Man, I copped it for weeks over that one, he he! :twisted:

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Also, if your tank is similar to my '79 1000E, make sure you remove the Kreem from the tank vent hole in the filler neck. Mine is on the right side, inside the notched cut-out.
Using the Kreem is quite an experience the first time. You never really know if you have complete coverage because you cannot see everything inside. I also remember thinking I was done and set the tank aside to dry.
Something made me go back and look inside about 10 minutes later. I was surprised to see the Kreem was starting to hang down in a few spots, like little stalagtites. 8O I kept turning the tank every few minutes and it all smoothed out. Just watch for this.

[Anonymous]

tank cleaning

Thanks for the advice. I will have to check for the vent tube.

I didnt know there might be one in there.

If I dont need to seal the top of the tank off I guess I have to be careful

during the swishing process.

One other thing, When it is time to pour out the cleaner and etcher,

how did you keep it from getting on the paint on the tank?

Or at the point of draining it, the chemicals are neutralized and wont hurt the paint anymore.

Rich

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: tank cleaning

Thanks for the advice. I will have to check for the vent tube.

I didnt know there might be one in there.

If I dont need to seal the top of the tank off I guess I have to be careful

during the swishing process.

One other thing, When it is time to pour out the cleaner and etcher,

how did you keep it from getting on the paint on the tank?

Or at the point of draining it, the chemicals are neutralized and wont hurt the paint anymore.

Rich

There is no vent tube. There is a vent HOLE in the filler neck. Just remember where it is and clean it out after the Kreem has dried, with a straight pin. I drained the acid out the petcock hole. I happened to have a rubber plug that I used to plug the hole while swishing the tank. When I unplugged it, my wife was right there with the hose running to immediately wash any acid off that touched the paint. I had no problems.