850 cam chain tensioner clarification

[Anonymous]

Theres quite a lot of rattle from the engine Im worried the tensioner isent even engaged. How does the unit work my Hanes manual isent very clear. Do I loosen the nut and then push the rod in as far as it will go counterclockwise? Then tighten Can I tell if the chain is worn or stretched? Thanks in advance

[Jay B]

Good Question

OK NICK and DAVID. You guys are the 850 Kings. Whats the answer. My manual isn't clear on it either.

[Anonymous]

I disqualify myself

I must disqualify myself from opining on this issue. I've never touched a cam chain tensioner in my 16 years of GS ownership. If I ever have to, my mechanic will be doing the work.

Nick

[Jay B]

Well..

Well being that you are the Shaftie Guru I thought that it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Well since Nick can't answer this can anyone else?

[focus frenzy]

tensioner problem

the clymer manual is alittle more informative on the tensioner and this is what it says about checking it.
1=loosen locknut securing lockscrew and tighten lockscrew to hold tenioner pushrod. (lock nut and lock screw are on the leftside, stator side)
2=remove the bolts securing tensioner assembly and remove tensioner.
note location of short bolt.
3=loosen locknut and back out lockscrew until pushrod is fully released.
4= remove pushrod and spring.
5=clean all parts in solvent and inspect assembly for excessive wear or damage.
6=lightly grease pushrod and opening in tensioner body.
7= rotate large knurled nut fully counter-clockwise and install pushrod and spring. make sure that flat spot on pushrod coincides with position of lock screw. move pushrod in and out several times to make sure it moves freely without sticking or binding.
8= fully install pushrod and secure with lockscrew. secure lockscrew with locknut.
9= reinstall tensioner assembly, then loosen lock nut then turn the lockscrew 1/4 turn counter clockwise releasing the plunger, then tighten the lock nut making sure the lockscrew remains at 1/4 turn out.
10= you are done!!

you can also just loosen the lock nut then turn in (clockwise) the lockscrew then back it back out 1/4 turn and then tighten the nut back.

[saaz]

Assuming the rattle is the camchain, the instructions above are comprehensive and spot on. A little maintenace and greasing will ensure the tensioner is working properly. I have had the same GS for 22 years, and only had a tensioner problem in the 80's. The original tensioner must have worn on the end of the rod and it was sticking and would not self adjust. A new one has worked perfectly ever since.

The cam chain may be worn with age. I replaced mine at 80,000 km when I did the motor - it was still ok but cheap to do when doing everyhting else. The service limit on the chain in157.8 mm (6.213 in) measured between 20 of the cam chain links (ie measure between pin 1 and pin 21 of a stretched chain).

I would first try the basics like - does the noise go away when you pull in the clutch - probably normal clutch wear. The older the motor the more normal!!

[Anonymous]

Not being an expert on engines myself,I have this rattle that disappears when clutch is engaged....what is this?

[saaz]

This is usually play in the clutch basket (springs, bearings). Usually nothing to worry about on a standard bike. On high horsepower (ie modified) bikes a reinforced clutch stops the clutch basket shattering, but it still can be noisy. Nothing to worry about usually.

[focus frenzy]

dont worry about the clutch rattle,if you want to hear real cluch rattle listen to a ducati with a dry clutch at idle, talk about noise, they sound like they could come apart at any time, but the noise is normal for them.

[Anonymous]

The cam chain may be worn with age. I replaced mine at 80,000 km when I did the motor -

I would like to know what rebuilding you did at 80,000 km-i am specifically curious to know if the crankshaft and bearings needed attention---also if you please, tell me what type of mains you have on your model engine
thanks
Scotty

[saaz]

I have a 1978 GS1000 roller crank bearings. I have never split the cases on it. The clutch has been reinforced, big bore kit, port work and high lift cams. The internals are still good, touch wood!

[Anonymous]

I have a 1978 GS1000 roller crank bearings. I have never split the cases on it. The clutch has been reinforced, big bore kit, port work and high lift cams. The internals are still good, touch wood!

Ahh so you replaced the cam chain tensioner at 80K kilometrers and not the chain--i am digging because i am paranoid about the timing chain 8O

[saaz]

I did both. As the head was off, and the engine makes a fair bit more power with heavier duty valve springs etc I replaced the cam chain with a heavy duty one. It had a master link in it that you peaned over to make a "permanent" link. All I did was temporarily join it onto the old one, turn the motor over and feed the new chain through. Splitting the cases just to do the cam chain seems unnecessary as the bottom ends on these old GSs go for ages with no troubles.

I don't think the original cam chain was worn out, but a new one at the time was cheap insurance. That was about 70,000 kms ago.