To be Banned from this site?

[shaftzuki]

just a Guy from Jersey.
1982 gs1100l, less than 12,000 miles. have had it only a couple weeks.
can't get enough of it.
1985 Honda Nighthawk
bought a 1978' gs750e new in 79', had it stollen in 80'
before that 650 BSA Lighting, talk about tuning carbs, try it with a couple Amol carbs and Lucas electrics, after you put in a cam and bore it out to 750.
but we wouldn't got there.
Hopefully in the future I am can have a more positive impact with my queries.

thanks for asking.

I think you had a positive impact - you definitely woke me up!! 8)

Where did you find the 1100L?? If it's the 16 valve motor - it's a pretty rare find ... 8)

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Keep thinking! It's what we are.
I have to say that in the past, and I'm a perfectionist, I've tried to manually synch' carbs by eye and using a small piece of wire. This would sometimes lead to one cylinder running noticably richer than the others.
You can still mess up and do the same with a vacuum tool, but only if you were in a hurry and did'nt pay attention. I've probably synch'd carbs a few dozen times and the vacuum tool is the best way, at least right now.

[Hap Call]

Keep thinking! It's what we are.
I have to say that in the past, and I'm a perfectionist, I've tried to manually synch' carbs by eye and using a small piece of wire. This would sometimes lead to one cylinder running noticably richer than the others.
You can still mess up and do the same with a vacuum tool, but only if you were in a hurry and did'nt pay attention. I've probably synch'd carbs a few dozen times and the vacuum tool is the best way, at least right now.

The wire method is what Mukuni suggests for their 33mm smoothbores...primarily because they are difficult to adjust while the motor is running. The newer flatslides may be different....

Hap

[Billy Ricks]

The wire method is what Mukuni suggests for their 33mm smoothbores...primarily because they are difficult to adjust while the motor is running. The newer flatslides may be different....

The RS flatslides would be tough to sync with guages. I've brought this up to Britt Turkington a few times and he just says to get the butterflies the same and forget it.

[Anonymous]

don't get me wrong,i am not adverse to new ideas and like to think of myself as a lateral thinker but the idea floated is not new or revolutonary etc it is something that has been found not to work. i quite like assisting people to gain knowledge but as you can see victor harps on with the revolutionary thought through long meaningless explainations that prove little. anyhow hap 33mm are not that bad to tune can you explain the problem in tuning while running ozman

[Billy Ricks]

Can't speak for the 33's, but on the RS flatslides you have to remove the tops of the carbs, loosen a large locknut, turn the slide adjuster and hold it, then tighten the locknut. The bolt you turn to adjust the slides acts on a lever that pulls the slides up. It's not very sensitive either. And with the tops of the carbs off you end up with air getting past the slides.

BTW, in my last post I should have said slides, not butterflies.

[Anonymous]

33mms are the same adjuster setup as for the air leaking past slides unless they are worn it is not much of a drama after adjusting i check with the caps on this show up any problems with leakage past slides you can then adjust to compensate for it..
ozman

[terry]

33mms are the same adjuster setup as for the air leaking past slides unless they are worn it is not much of a drama after adjusting i check with the caps on this show up any problems with leakage past slides you can then adjust to compensate for it..
ozman

Hey Steve, those nasty old 33mm "smoothies" sound like a real pain, so how about you just send them to me and I'll dispose of them thoughtfully?

While we're on the subject, what's the difference between the smoothies and the factory 33mm slide carbs that came with my 1981 GS1000ST? Do they flow that much better?

I thought about buying a set of smoothies for my bike, but I remember when I went out and bought new Koni's for it just after I bought it, and found that there was bugger-all difference between them and the factory items? :twisted:

[Anonymous]

hi terry your carbs should be 30mm if i remember correctly. but also they are not a smoothbore type carb.if your motor is stock 33mm are probably to big,they really kill the torque down low.on a stocker i love 29mm smoothies more grunt and very rideable power .they will flow better than your std carbs and fit strait on..if you want to try a set let me know and i will lend you some. have a spare set that i will fit to my 78 1000 when i do it up so i don't need them for a while.
ozman

[terry]

Hey Steve, thanks mate, I'd like to try the 29mm carbs, and I'd be happy to send you an oil cooler adapter as a "deposit", but I imagine I'll need to fit one of my "small port" heads so that they'll fit?

Now I've heard before that mine should have either 30 or 31mm slidecarbs, but I've measured them with my trusty vernier, and it doesn't lie, the ID of the spigot is definately 33mm. It runs a stock airbox etc, although the rubber "trumpets" are different from both my '79 "SN" with 28mm slide carbs and my '80 "E" with 34mm CV's.

I had all sorts of problems buying a couple of new rubber "manifolds" for it at Mick Hone last year when I found that a couple of mine were cracked, Steve the spare parts guru there was pretty sure that these things were just about impossible to find because the ST was made in such small numbers. He had a couple there which I bought, but I'm not expecting to ever see any more, and as the US bikes all had CV's, "evil bay" won't help either, sadly.

Cheers mate, have a good weekend. :twisted:

[Anonymous]

i am coming down to melb this weekend i will bring carbs email back your phone number i seem to have lost it..i think its old timers kicking in
steve

[Anonymous]

carb sync...

geeeezzzz, professor...i've fitted a GE CJ-610 turbojet off a Lear Jet 25 to my gs-550!!! and i don't need any stinking sync stuff...just one fuel control......ta da!!!!

[Anonymous]

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

Assumes the engine is otherwise in good condition. Very important to get the steps completed in order. Otherwise you'll chase your tail trying to get it right.

(anyone who has experience with dynamic convergence on older colour TVs will understand)

[Anonymous]

I have spent a lot of time tweaking a set of Mikuni CVs, but they were the pair on my old 240Z (SU copies). I never used a vac guage on them, even though I had an SU synch tool on hand. You can tune them just like a guitar by sticking a rubber tube in your ear, inserting it in the mouth of the carb and listening to the hiss. It was faster and better than the synch tool for me in this particular application. I used the same technique to synch the Mikuni slide carbs on my RZ350, too. I have not tried this with a four carb setup, but rest assured, when I do have to synch up a set of four, I'll try this method first, before trying to find a synch setup. It works better for me as I have very good relative pitch. There are more ways than one to skin a cat.

[Anonymous]

I just did a carb tear down this past weekend and tried the carb sync using the drill bit method since it seemed like a logical way to go (I've known about this from multi-carb setups on cars). It didn't work for me. I noticed that the main idle screw affects the throttle plates differently also. You have no idea where to set the main idle screw first since there is no published spec. This method would work at least to get you into the ballpark, if there were some published specs as to where to set everything at initially.