A brain teaser on my 1100

[Anonymous]

Hello all, I have run into a problem that has me a bit puzzled. First i'll give you a little lead up:

I replaced my countershaft bearings, since the old ones had been installed incorrectly and shattered. Put the bike back together and it runs very well. I started her up for an evening ride 2 days ago and noticed on my pre-ride checks that the headlight, taillight, and check panel were inoperative. The brake light, turn signals, horn, etc. all worked. An easy fix... Just check for power to the Orange/red wire, clean the appropriate connector and whala, there was light. I also noticed the oil pressure sending unit connector had come loose under the air box. Now, onto the problem description:

With the bike sitting still, clutch pulled in, in ANY gear the oil light and entire check panel lights up. Put it in neutral and the oil light and check panel go normal. I put the bike on the centerstand, put it in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in. Of course the oil light and check panel lights all come on. If I move the rear wheel even a half inch the lights go normal until the motion stops. I figure one of two things:

1. The clutch basket is mis-installed (no problem, I have an impact so it's a quick fix for me.)

2. There is some weird wiring dilemna having to do with the turn signal cancel unit (but I have not yet delved into the wiring schematic to see what that may be.)

Any assistance, ideas or advice would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Tim

[focus frenzy]

you have a bad ground

[Anonymous]

Hmmmm, I considered that. The "teaser" is that simply turning the rear wheel returns the lights to normal. The only thing it does is turn the output shaft of the transmission. What do you think? Mind you, I am not dismissing your idea, simply digging abit deeper...

Thank you,
Tim

[Anonymous]

Sounds like the gear position sending unit (wiring) is somehow cross-wired to your instrument cluster. Is this possible? Does that wiring look normal??

[Anonymous]

Yes, the wiring is normal. Once again, turning the rear wheel normalizes the lights. When the wheel stops moving, the lights come back on. I had thought, possibly the act of the gears meshing between the output chaft and countershaft could cause a better ground throught the chain, but the engine is solid mounted and double cable grounded to the frame. The neutral sensor was a good idea, since it also creates a ground, but the wheel motion is throwing me.


Thanks,
Tim

[Anonymous]

I had forgotten to mention the corrective action on this: Upon removal of the clutch basket I saw with glaring clarity what was wrong. The spacer that is supposed to go on between the engine case and the oil pump drive gear was installed between the drive gear and the clutch basket. (Damned late night finishes)

Anyway, I corrected this and she's great.

Tim