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    Chain Lube

    I am getting a new o-ring chain and sprockets for Karen's bike. (Darn Chains Anyway!) I was wondering what if anything you folks use on yours to keep them lubed without messing up the o-rings. I know that the o-ring style is not supposed to need lube, but something about dry rollers and dry sprockets coming together at speed just doesn't sound right. Thanks and Safe Riding, Bill

    #2
    You know, I have always been partial to Moly Lube. I use it in assembly oil when rebuilging engines, and it's GREAT for high tension metal on metal applications. It's available in powder form too, which i'd bet would be great on a chain.


    Tim

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      #3
      It still needs lube

      You still need to lube that chain. The rollers turn on pins, and those parts don't benefit by the sealed-in lube where the links hinge. I use the Bel-Ray foaming spray product on a warm chain just after a ride. It's supposed to be fine for o-rings. I put the bike on the centerstand and have someone turn the rear wheel while I run a line of lube along both edges of the rollers. I wait about 30 seconds and then wipe off every bit of lube I can get to with rags. Lots of lube will remain, and what you don't wipe off will fling off onto your wheel later. This product, like most other oil-based sprays, thickens up as the solvents go away, so it's better to leave the bike overnite to lessen fling-off. My owner's manual says to lube every 500 miles, but I just lube whenever the chain starts to look dry. As to cleaning the chain, I've found that my roadbikes don't need it. I clean my dualsport o-ring chains (masterlink equipped) occasionally by swishing in a bucket of kerosene. Let dry, then a coating of WD-40 (and let dry again) 'cause the kerosene strips off all the protective oil and rust is apparent almost immediately. Maybe someone with experience with chain waxes could give us their impressions?

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        #4
        I used to clean the chain on my 550 with kerosene. I put newspapers under the bike and used an old paint brush and a rag soaked in kerosene. After cleaning, I would wipe it down with a clean dry rag, and then blow the chain off with air. I would then let it set for aleast an hour, then spray the chain with Hondalube. The guys at the Suzuki shop recommended it. It goes on wet, and then dries, forming a coating on the chain. This prevents stuff from sticking to the chain. While riding, the lube warms up and liquifies to give better lubrication.

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          #5
          Motorcycle Consumer News, which is strictly supported by subscriptions only and does not accept advertising, did a test on chain lube about a year ago. PJ-1 Black Label came in first, and PJ-1 Blue label came in second. I use the Blue label because it is especially formulated for o-ring chains. When I changed my chain the last time it was because the chain had stretched beyond use limits but the sprockets looked brand new, so the PJ-1 was doing its' job very well.

          Hap

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            #6
            I agree with HAP, PJ-1 blue label is the way to go, it dries to a gooy sticky film that wont sling off, and protects the o-rings keeping them from drying out and failing, also prevents rust from forming.
            I use it on my one last chain driven bike, (havnt found a shafty dirt bike)

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              #7
              Originally posted by focus frenzy
              I (havnt found a shafty dirt bike)
              What a about a Beemer? I've got an alcohol powered Honda V65 Magna "dirt bike". 8)
              Kevin
              E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
              "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

              1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
              Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

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