DONE: Wiring harness shorted out, need emergency-rewire help

[Dave_A]

Well, my wiring harness shorted out. Not the charging/coil circuit, but the
lights/signals/horn/ignition key/starter switch segment...

What I need to do is disconnect and bypass the harness so that I get my motor back. I'll deal with lights/signals/etc later, after I get the bike home...

So, (a) What wire do I have to short *NEAR THE MOTOR* to force the bike to operate in 'key on' mode, (b) Where is the starter-relay (so I can rig up a temporary start button, and (c) how do I disconnect the rest of the harness from the battery (to stop further shorting)?

I have an 82 GS-450TX.


[red][NOTE]: Rigged the coils, RR, and ignitor direct to the battery, cut harness loose, and got it home safe... Battery out, rewire time...[/red]

[Planecrazy]

Dave,

I don't have any experience with the harness itself, but are you sure it's the harness? Maybe the ignition switch shorted ... if so, perhaps you can simply disconnect the switch and "hotwire" the bike from that point.

If possible, check continuity on the switch in each position and see whether it acts the way it should.

Having never played wiring games at the switch I have no idea how easy this will be, but if you're lucky it'll just be a bad switch and you'll be able to bypass it to get the bike home.

Oh, one more thing ... assuming it is the ignition switch and you ARE able to bypass it, make sure you check the fuse block for any burned fuses -- otherwise you might wind up scratching your head wondering why hotwiring the bike doesn't produce the desired result...

Good Luck! 8)

[Dave_A]

The harness is definately FUBAR...

Charred, shorted, GONE...

I've got it turning over, and I have continuity to the coils, now all I need to do is bypass the ignition switch. NEAR THE BATTERY/RR COMPARTMENT...

My headlight bucket-area wiring is one solid mass of melted insulation and burned wires...

So I need to hotwire it back by the main electronics, behind the short (I've disconnected the harness from positive allready...

[Anonymous]

I think that if I were in your shoes I wouldn't try to ride the bike home. There's already a major problem and a half-a55 fix could cost your life.

Still, in case it helps you, I'll post my wiring diagram below, since you're in a pinch. It's for a 450.

Good luck, and be safe, not sorry.

Michael

[Anonymous]

Sounds like a job for..... U-HAUL!!!!!!

Sounds like a job for...... U-HAUL!!!!! If you have a trailer hitch you can rent a trailer with a ramp for $16.00 a day. I used one for an hour to get my bike home when it had a charging problem. For $16.00 it was worth every penny.

[argonsagas]

I am not a stranger to harness problems, so I will not hesitate in saying you should abandon any and every idea of riding the bike until it is repaired....and that means replacing the ENTIRE harness.

Nose to tail. EVERY wire.


Chance of fire is very high. DO NOT RISK IT.

No matter the inconvenience, haul it away and fix it properly.

[Dave_A]

Update

I cut the damaged portion of the harness loose at all (+) contact points, and wired up the R/R and coils independant of the harness (the battery, signal generator, and stator wiring was not damaged)... Started the bike by shorting the positive starter relay, and made it home safe and sound...

Battery is OUT, harness removed, and it's time to replace the thing...

New thread starting: Where do I get an 82 450TX harness, or should I just DIY myself a new harness??

See: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ic.php?t=14805

[Anonymous]

Hehe. When I posted my wiring diagram for my 450 I figured you'd have one of the fours, not a relatively rare twin 450. That's pretty cool! Is it in the gallery yet?

Michael

[argonsagas]

Well, Dave, you are obviously resourceful and knowledgeable. My compliments on doing it well.

Your bike is unusual, so an original harness will be difficult to find, but give e=bay a try.

Since you are that capable, I would suggest you can make your own, The schematic you got already may do the job, or will at least be close, and you seem to have the skills to modify it as necessary.

There are a a number of connections inside the harness. Solder each one, and try painting it afterwards with liquid electrical tape. (by Starbrite) You can still wrap a bit of electrical vinyl tape over it, but you save on the bulkiness of taped connectors and improve your long=term conductivity.

The original wiring was of minimal gauge to save space. Heavier wires will be harder to work with as they will be less flexible, and bulkier, but you get a small gain in reduced voltage loss and some gain in safety. Your main wires to/from the fuse box/ignition and headlight should be 14 AWG, (original was 16). All wires must be stranded ...do not use solid wire.

If you need connectors, (and you likely will) visit an auto store first, but if what you want is not available, try an electronics store. ...you will need to increase the wire gauge, but you will get a wider choice of connectors.