83 GS750ED Clutch problem

[Anonymous]

I'm learning a lot about clutches in the process. What is the best or most accurate method to check engine oil level? On the side stand or center stand, after the engine has run for a while or cold.

I'm wondering if this problem is related to oil level. When I filled the bike (it was completely drained), it was on center stand and cold, oil was just slightly more than 1/2 way between the marks on the sight window.
Should the oil be at the high mark? When the engine is cold? or Hot?
I?m using oil from the dealer, Spectrol 10W40, any particular brand that might work better than others?

I measured the plates, they seemed to be in spec, but it is very possible that additional plates were added to compensate for a problem. The slippage with the 8 and 8 combo, makes me think they are worn.

Thanks

Bob

[Anonymous]

Measure the oil on the center stand or balance straight up. It sounds as if your oil level is right and the oil you are using is fine as long as there are no additives like moly.

[Billy Ricks]

Mister T,

There were extra plate kits made for most bikes. That's probably what you have.

[redliner1973]

When you checked the friction/steel plates for thickness, did you set the discs on a flat glass peice to make sure they were not warped? :twisted:

[Anonymous]

Update 3. Reassembled the clutch plates, installed the 1st metal plate as part of the wave washer / ring stopper assy. This gave me a count of 8 driven and 8 drive plates, put it together, filled with oil, let it run to warm up and tweaked the clutch adjustment, while on the center stand.

Bob, the parts diagram shows a "wave washer seat" behind the wave washer and stopper ring......did you check to see if you have the "seat"? When I took my 1983 GS750ES clutch apart, I know I had only 8 drive and 8 driven plates outboard of the ring stopper.

You might also consider sending Hap Call a PM.........he has taken his GS1100E's clutch apart more than I've had hot dinners.

Simon

[Anonymous]

Update 4. This evening I dismantled the clutch assy again. I used a piece of glass to check for warped steel plates, they looked fine.
I double checked the thickness of the fiber plates; the Vernier resolution is in cm, so these measured over 2.5 mm, but accuracy is not perfect.
I checked the factory manual; it shows the seat, wave washer and a metal plate then the ring stopper. This is how I have it configured at this time.
I reassembled, starting with a fiber plate, metal plate with sharp edge facing away from the engine.
I now have 8 and 8 if you count the metal plate behind the ring stopper.
I reassembled, topped off the oil, etc. readjusted the clutch as per the manual, put it back on the center stand and started it up.

It was about 8 pm when I completed this, too dark to get this out of my shed and drive. So on the center stand, running, finding neutral was no problem, in 1st gear, I could almost stall the engine, and I probably could have if I stepped on the brake, but I was leaning over using my hand.
Tomorrow I'll drive it and see if the clutch slips, if it does, I think I need new plates.

If I replace the fiber plates, do I also need to replace the steel plates, if they look ok?

I noticed as the machine began to warm up, the idle crept up from 1-1.5 K rpm to 2.5 - just under 3 K rpm, any ideas on that?

Thanks

Bob

[Anonymous]

Vernier resolution is in cm

Did you mean mm? I hope so, but even so, this is not good enough. You need a set of caliphers where the resolution is 0.001". There are 2.54 cm/inch or 25.4mm/inch - you are not even to 1/100 of an inch resolution.

You should be able to get a decent set for less than 30-40 dollars. They come in handy for all types of measurements.

My money is still on the clutch plates being marginal or out of spec. You also mentioned the pressure plate springs may be on the short side. If they are too weak, the clutch will slip. A set of caliphers will make that measurement. There is a spec on the metal plates also.

Measure everything and compare to spec. If out or marginal, buy original equipment springs and plates.

[Anonymous]

Swanny, got it - I'll get the proper tool. Ron Ayers is about half the price for OEM, Vs Bike Bandit, does he ship fast?

thanks

Bob

[Anonymous]

Never tried Ron Ayers - sorry.

[Billy Ricks]

If it's in stock you get it pretty quick. I ordered a set of chain adjusters from them awhile back and it took about 2 weeks. But then they were parts I suspect were not in stock.

[Anonymous]

Hey Mister T - how about a signature of "I pity the fool". I love that quote.

[Anonymous]

Update 5. Borrowed a digital vernier, measured the plates. Drive plates were 2.4-2.5mm, the factory spec is 2.7 to 2.9, service limit is 2.6. The driven plates were very close to spec at 1.99, spec is 2.0.
These babies are worn and I'll be replacing them all.

Swanny - I'll hold off on the quotes for now

[Anonymous]

Don't forget the springs.

[Anonymous]

Final update - I hope.
Installed 8 new fiber plates tonight. That cleared the clutch problem. Springs are on backorder.
Oh yeah, and the rattle is gone too.
Thanks everyone for your input and great advice.
Now it's on to idle problems.

[Anonymous]

Great news. I was once the World Champion until I was railroaded. B!tch took everything.