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exaust bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hi,

I broke one of the exaust to engine bolts, and now I'll replace them all. Just checking to see if they need to be some special grade, or if I can just pick up cheap ones at a hardwear store.
 
My experience says, common bolt up to grade 5. Too strong of a bolt, grade 8 is more brittle and will expand and contract less with the high heat from an exhaust system and possibly break. The softer bolt will "give" more. Besure you have the correct thread pitch, diameter and length. Make sure you don't have too much sholder on below the head of the bolt. Always use a dab of Never Seize compound to prevent frozen bolts and stripped threads down the road.
 
I picked up a set of stainless socket caps for about $5 at the hardware store. I know people say to use a softer bolt, but I have my exhaust off and on fairly regularly and always use anti-sieze compound so it hasn't been a problem. You just have to be careful and not overtighten.
 
In my opinion it's better instead of using a bolt to use a lenght of thread without a head like the ones that hold your cilinders and head together. Can't remember the correct technical term in English right now :roll: That way when you want to take off the exhaust system again you can just loosen the nut holding it instead of unscrewing the bolt from the head and risk breaking it or stripping the thread.
 
robinjo said:
In my opinion it's better instead of using a bolt to use a lenght of thread without a head like the ones that hold your cilinders and head together. Can't remember the correct technical term in English right now
Click to expand...

Been there plenty of times. You're really going to go "duh" when you hear the answer. Stud. That is a good idea as well. Even gives you a way to hang the exhaust while you get a couple of nuts started.
 
Good choice. Stainless steel IS a soft bolt material. More nickle less steel.
 
robinjo said:
In my opinion it's better instead of using a bolt to use a lenght of thread without a head like the ones that hold your cilinders and head together. Can't remember the correct technical term in English right now :roll:
Click to expand...

I really hate to do this :roll: - we normally refer to them as a "stud" ... :wink: and no, I'm not talking about Claude ... 8)
 
stud

stud

I like that stud idea. English is not my first language, so just to make sure: stud is basicly a short pice of all-thread??? If I am correct then how do I screw it in?
Also should I use that anti lock stuff on rest of the engine. (the top part is off)

Thanks to everyone for comments
 
Billy Ricks said:
robinjo said:
In my opinion it's better instead of using a bolt to use a lenght of thread without a head like the ones that hold your cilinders and head together. Can't remember the correct technical term in English right now
Click to expand...

Been there plenty of times. You're really going to go "duh" when you hear the answer. Stud. That is a good idea as well. Even gives you a way to hang the exhaust while you get a couple of nuts started.
Click to expand...

doh.jpg


:roll: :roll: :roll:

To prevent the nuts falling off you can use selftightening nuts, not the ones with nylon because that'll melt but the steel ones or use 2 nuts on top of each other tightening them together.
 
?

?

Still I don't get it how do you put the stud into place? I have nothing to grab it by to screw it into the engine...
 
Still I don't get it how do you put the stud into place? I have nothing to grab it by to screw it into the engine...
Click to expand...

Try 2 nuts locked together. Ouch, that sounded bad.

I would use stainless for the bolts or studs if you prefer.

Something that is overlooked quite often is to run a tap all the way down each threaded hole to clean them up before installing new bolts.
 
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