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GS1100EZ wont start

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    GS1100EZ wont start

    the starter motor is turing but the engine isnt turning over. checked the stator per my haynes manual and its fine - i checked the regulator and its fried- could this be the cause of my starting problems or is this just a coincidence and i should keep looking? any input would be appreciated

    #2
    You can start an engine even with a fried regulator.


    Three most common no-start problems No gas, No choke, No spark.

    Presuming you have gas in the tank, do you have the vacuum tube connected between the carbs and the petcock?

    If not, you won't get any gas at the carbs, unless it is set to PRIme..

    Is the choke pulled on? (Even in todays weather mine won't start unless I pull the choke)



    If all that's OK, then pull one spark plug wire off, and remove the plug.

    Put the wire back on the plug you just removed and lay the plug on the engine. Take your hand away and turn over the engine while you check for spark.

    You could also follow both tubes connected to the petcock and pull them off at the carbs. Put a cup/can under the gs line and then take the vacuum one and suck on it a bit. That should release the gas in the tank. If nothing happens then you probably have a problem with the petcock diaphragm. You can switch the tank setting to PRI and gas will run freely, but switch it back when you park the bike to avoid possible problems in the carbs.
    Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

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      #3
      no spark

      maybe i didnt explain the problem clear enough..... the starter is turning but the engine isn't -therefore no spark

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        #4
        Is the battery charged?

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          #5
          battery charged?

          yes brand new battery - fully charged

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            #6
            Easy problem, your starter clutch is stuck/bad.
            the starter clutch is located on the left end of the crank shaft behind the alternator rotor, it works alot like a centrifical clutch for a go cart.

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              #7
              is there a way to test it?? and what do you mean by stuck??

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                #8
                It's stuck meaning that when the starter motor turns the clutch does not expand to meet the plate and start turning the engine. [Centrifugal force does not force the clutch out to meet the recieving end.] The air conditioning compressor on a car works the same way.

                Can't think of a good way to test it while still on/in the bike. But it would seem to me that if taken out, you could test it by either applying voltage or inspecting the clutch for damage.

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                  #9
                  I don't knnow about you guys been when I fried my Reg/rectifier my 1150 wouldn't start. It would make like it wanted to but no spark. Since Brooms is fried I would replace it first then continue on with the trouble shooting.

                  Just a thought.

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                    #10
                    I remember the rotor came loose on the left end of the crankshafts, on a bunch of the "80" 1100E's, due to the tapered fitting with no splines nor keyways. When the rotors came loose, the starter clutch would not enguage, thus the engine will not turn. Be sure your rotor is not loose, or it will ruin the left end of the crankshaft

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                      #11
                      you were right... the nut holding the entire assembly was hand tight and the rotor came without even a tug thanks.... my problem now is how do i keep the crankshaft from turning while tighten the nut?

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                        #12
                        The easiest way is to put the bike in first gear and let somebody hold the rear brake I guess. Or you can use one of those special tools like in the manual.

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                          #13
                          Pull the rotor, and check the tapered end of the crankshaft. If it is still smooth, just reinstall, & my service manuel said nut torque should be 111 to 123 lb. ft. and use a thread lock compound. If the end of the crank is all beat up & pitted, the end of the crank should be replaced. Apprx. 20 years ago, I messed up one of these ends. I didn't have the $$$$ to fix it properly, so I tightened the rotor all I could, without striping the threads, then welded the nut to the end of the crank, and to the rotor. The bike is still running with the same crank & rotor. But if you ever have starter clutch problems, you've got big problems. Good Luck

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                            #14
                            Thanks

                            Big thanks to everyone who helped out w/ my problem... I just got back from a short spin around the block and everything seems to be back to normal. I only wish i would have found this site years ago.

                            Thanks again to everyone, I'll see you in the wind!!

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                              #15
                              That Sir is why we are here. One of these days when we are old and crotchity like Scotty and riding our GS's with training wheels you will be helping out someone else.

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