82' GS750E Running on 3 cyls (sort of)

[Anonymous]

Let me tell you my issue... I have an '82 GS750E that was GIVEN to me a few years back. It was in need of some mechanical TLC at that time, but it ran OK. The body is in excellent condition and I estimate it to have around 30000 miles.

My question is really two-fold but I will start with the current problem; thanks in advance for bearing with me

It was parked about 2 years ago with fuel and StaBil in the tank. I just got my act back together and decided to get her fired back up and give her the TLC that she needs. Well, after charging the battery and a couple of shots of ether, she fired right up. It's just that she wont run on all four cyls consistently. I do get the occasional POP in the exhaust indicating that one of the cylinders is firing intermittently. No problem. I shut her off and pull all the plugs. Black, sooty (Poor gas, choke). Clean 'em, put 'em back in different cylinders (to see if it was a plug) and crank it over. Seems to be the same cylinder misfiring. Also, at this point she was coming up to temperature so I started to back off the choke and give a little throttle. HMMM, any amount of throttle at all causes her to bog and die (like she's not getting enough fuel). The float bowls are staying full so I know that I'm getting fuel from the tank. The plugs are once again sooty, but I'm chalking that up to the choke being on for a slightly extended time. Drain the float bowls, drain the tank, put new clean fuel (with a slight amount of Marvel's for varnish removal) in the tank and fire her up again. Same thing. Any suggestions?

Problem two. This is one that I will have to address once I get her running again. When I used to ride regularly, I would notice that once the motor got up to full operating temperature and I was under moderatle load at lower engine RPMS (2250+) I would get what sounds like valve clatter. Any thoughts? Perhap
s it's just detonation, but it sure sounds like clatter.

Thanks for reading (if you got this far). Just a GS lover with an opportunity to get an old Suzy back on the road again.

-Jeff
'82 GS750E - Former '82 GS1150ES
jfeige@one.net

[Jay B]

Nothing I say nothing helps a bike that has set for a couple of years like a good cleaning. If you able take them about and clean clean clean. Then put it back together with a new air filter and new plugs. Then start her and she where she is. All the tips and checks in the world wont help till you cleam them carbs.

About your valve clatter. Change the oil and filter before taking it any farther. Old oil is not good oil. You more than likely will have to adjust/shim the valves and the clatter will go away. Valve clatter usually is heard when an engine is too hot and the valves need adjusted/shimed.


Home this helps you out.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info.

Thanks for the quick reply. I kinda figured as such, but it's always good to ask.
Is there anything special I should look for when cleaning the carbs? I have limited experience with "CV" type carbs since most of my other bikes were older slide-style carbs (RD 350 - donated to a friend... What goes around comes around).

I have already changed the oil and filter I will probably do it again b4 I take her out on the road. I will keep you guys posted on my progress!

-Jeff

[argonsagas]

First....check out the carburetor page on this site.

Particular things to look for?


When you pull off the float bowls, take out the rubber-like plug and unscrew the pilot jet. Check it from the open end and if it is not clear (it probably will be plugged) use the tool idea given on the site...a bristle from a wire brush stuck in a pencil eraser., then be certain to blow it clear from the small end with a carb cleaner spray or even something like WD40. It takes very little to plug this orifice and you need the spray pressure to blow it completely clear.

Install an in-lne filter.

I've had my carbs off and apart twice this year....the first time to clean them, the second to clear the pilot jets after picking up junk in a tank of fresh gas. Looks like I got there shortly after the tanker left and got the junk that was still swirling around underground.

That's the reason for the filter. I usually have one on it, but it was plastic and split...my fault...when I put the tank back on. I wasn't worried about my tank, since it was professionally cleaned and re-lined last year.

The filter is just a good, and cheap, (about $3.) way to avoid problems from several possible sources.

[Anonymous]

Sweet.

Thanks for pointing me to the carb info page on this site. How I missed it before I will never know. The guy who put all that info together deserves a pat on the back for sure

I've taken the carbs off and am getting ready for disassembly. I was also able to locate (thanks to the forums) a kind individual with an '82 GS750L that I have been able to get carbs / clutch / coils etc. for a reasonable price. (Never hurts to have backups).

After the carbs, I guess I will do a valve adjustment. Gotta go dig out the Clymers for that. Anyone have any pitfalls I might look for?

-Jeff

[Anonymous]

Hmm...

Okay guys, here is what I have figured out so far... The guy that I got this bike from will not get too much grief since he GAVE me the bike, but...

It seems that the carb work that he did on it a few years ago was done in haste. Carbs #2 and #3 didn't have clamps on the airbox side boots. The choke cable is missing the adjuster setup and most of the other hoses (not manifold boots) don't have clamps as well.

Are the vent "T" s that are located between carbs 1-2 and 3-4 supposed to have hoses attached to them? If so, where are they supposed to be routed?

I also found out that this poor thing has only had one valve adjustment in it's 20000+ miles

What kind of oil do you guys recommend? I was thinking of using Mobil 1, but if that's a bad idea, please let me know. Also, is it a good idea to take the automatic cam chain tensioner off while I have the carbs out? Does the cam chain have an end-of-life that I need to be aware of, or does it generally last for quite awhile?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is a whole new bike to me I WAS a Yamaha man, but I have always lusted over this bike and well, now it's mine! Switch from Yamaha and Chevy to Suzuki and Ford. Guess I finally saw the light. :mrgreen:

-Jeff

'82 GS750 - '73 RD350 - '93 Mustang GT - '00 ZX2 S/R

[moto_dan]

Hoses are supposed to be connected to the "T's" between 1-2 and 3-4. They are vent hoses and on my '80 and '83 are routed up and over the air box. If the hoses had clamps originally they were probably the small spring type clamps and are not absoulutely necessary.

Valve adjustment is pretty straight forward with the manual. If you have the screw type adjusters be sure and tighten the lock nuts. A loose nut inside of a running engine can cause serious damage, I speak from experience.

Why do you feel the need to take the cam chain tensioner off? Cam chain life???
Oil - I use Castrol 10-40w non-synthetic. Many opinions on this subject.