Very strange clutch symptom

[Hotblack]

Just today I started noticing a slight intermittent notchiness when releasing my clutch lever, in stop and go traffic. After getting moving again there was an intermittent clatter from the engine, and the clutch lever would move on its own, doing a little dance. This was most pronounced on deceleration, the heavier the deceleration the more it did it. I pulled over to check the oil and it was fine, so I rode it home and parked it. The clutch does not slip at all that I can tell, it doesn't act up with when disengaged, and it engages smoothly with the exeption of that resistance sometimes in the lever. With the engine off the lever behaves normally, and seems to still be in proper adjustment. This is the first peep I've had out of the clutch in a year of riding. This all started happening, by the way, after a longish freeway stint at 70 mph, about 80 miles worth with a break in the middle, the longest I've had it on the freeway to date.

Any insights before I take it apart?

[Anonymous]

i believe the first move is to oil your cable

[daveo]

sounds like you need to check the cable adjusters, the one on the engine sounds like it's loosened up

[Anonymous]

I agree, I bet it ain't the clutch, but the linkage. That kind'a sounds like what it was like with my bike the just before the clutch cable broke

[Dink]

The cable is cetainly the place to start, next is the bearings on the shaft through the clutch cover, and finally the inner and outer clutch baskets, look for grooves worn into them, if they are small you can file them to dress them out, otherwise it is time to replace them.
Dink

[Hotblack]

I'm pretty satisfied that it's not the cable due to the fact that it's as smooth as ever except under the conditions that bring the odd behavior on. If the cable were to blame it would drag even with the engine off, no? I haven't ruled out anything beyond the cable and the adjusters though. The one on top of the engine is still tight. It may be indicative that the symptom developed rapidly. One suspicion is that vibration has loosened something in the clutch itself, but there's a mysterious place between where the cable enters the engine and where the clutch is that I don't know much about, too. I still haven't looked at it since I parked it, I do plan to go over the adjustment at the engine to see if anything is amiss. I adjusted it once in the spring and it's been fine until now, so hopefully if anything's amiss there I'll be able to tell. I hope that's it actually.

Thanks for the input so far.

[daveo]

I've never worked on a 550, but I think they use a clutch release rod(like Kaws) that goes thru engine from the left to push to the right, this shaft no doubt has an adjustment and a bearing (like 1 ball) that spins when clutch is dis-engaged to let the rod spin with the clutch, have a look see.

[Anonymous]

The cable is cetainly the place to start, next is the bearings on the shaft through the clutch cover, and finally the inner and outer clutch baskets, look for grooves worn into them, if they are small you can file them to dress them out, otherwise it is time to replace them.
Dink

Did you jave tomention Grooves Duncan. How come you dont spell it grouves??

[Hotblack]

I've never worked on a 550, but I think they use a clutch release rod(like Kaws) that goes thru engine from the left to push to the right, this shaft no doubt has an adjustment and a bearing (like 1 ball) that spins when clutch is dis-engaged to let the rod spin with the clutch, have a look see.

Hmmmm sounds like a place where gremlins would like to live. [-X I hope to get a look at it today.

[Hotblack]

O shaft, where art thou??

Well you were all correct in your instinct that it wasn't in the clutch itself. I was also QUITE correct in my instinct not to get on the fraggin' thing before I solved the mystery. After removing the sprocket cover for the first time ever, this sight greeted my eyes:



Note that the retainer nut for the sprocket is MIA, also note the scuff marks on the clutch arm where the chain was rubbing on it. 8O That explains the 'spirited' clutch lever perfectly. I guess vibration did its work on the nut, though it shouldn't have. You can bet I'll be reading up on proper torquing procedures when this goes back together. Seems like a great time to order a new clutch cable too.

Also note the profusion of grease, and the MOUSE'S NEST ](*,) strewn all over the place. If Woody had gone right to the police, this would neeever have happened. At any rate it's looking a little better, now I need to find a replacement for the errant nut.




I'm just glad the clutch arm runs so close to the sprocket, or I could have been in BIG trouble. Someone around here quoted that in your riding career you begin with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience, the idea being to fill the experience bag before you empty the luck bag. I wonder how much luck I used up Thursday??

Thanks again, all.

[Anonymous]

You are also missing a piece of sheet steel used to lock the nut onto the bike. The nut on my bike is always loose due to have having a big enough wrench kicking around so the only thing holding my sprocket on is the nut retainer...

Cheers, Steve

[earlfor]

Re: O shaft, where art thou??

You will see in your picture that when the sprocket is pusshed all the way onto the splined shaft, the splines protrude past the sprocket, The reason for this is that there is a splined and tabbed lockwasher that you are missing that goes under the nut. One name for it is a "french lock". In this case, the splines of the washer mate to the shaft and the washer must rotate with the sprocket. The nut is then installed and tightend on top of the washer and the tabls of the washer are bent over the flats of the nut to lock down the assembly. You need the special washer and the nut.

Earl


[quote="Hotblack"]



Note that the retainer nut for the sprocket is MIA, also note the scuff marks on the clutch arm where the chain was rubbing on it.

[Hotblack]

Good, thanks. I just ordered that stuff, and I wasn't sure if the washer I ordered was what srivett was talking about, couldn't tell if there was a tab on it or not. But according to your explanation there is. It does have the splines too. I'm guessing that it's been missing all along, since at 30+k it's had to have had at least one chain/sprocket change. Right now I've got a nut from a bowl of MG parts and a crank washer from my 10 speed holding it on (so I could ride it back up to the shed).

[earlfor]

If the splined washer you receive doesnt have tabs, it will be of a diameter to allow you to bend its edge over the flat on the nut to lock it in place. The nut must be "french locked" in place. I've found that no amount of torque alone will keep the nut from loosening and vibrating off. Suzuki does make a self locking nylock nut that can be used without a locking spline washer, but I have never checked to see which models they are available for besides the 1150E (I dont know if all Suzuki GS countershaft threads are the same diameter and pitch)

Earl

Good, thanks. I just ordered that stuff, and I wasn't sure if the washer I ordered was what srivett was talking about, couldn't tell if there was a tab on it or not. But according to your explanation there is. It does have the splines too. I'm guessing that it's been missing all along, since at 30+k it's had to have had at least one chain/sprocket change. Right now I've got a nut from a bowl of MG parts and a crank washer from my 10 speed holding it on (so I could ride it back up to the shed).