#2 still dead.

[Anonymous]

My #2 cylinder is still cold. It must not be getting fuel.

I posted earlier about not having spark. I had gone with automotive radio suppression accel wires. I got new solid core wires and B8ES plugs. When I took the wires off I found that the reason I had weak spark was becouse the wire was not pushed into the coil all the way.

I wen't back to the solid core wires any way instead of keeping the accel wires on. Now the spark on all are hot and blue.

Unfortunately #2 did not wake up. Is the #2 carb the only logical place to look from here? I have been through all of the carbs many times, and cant find any problems. I wish I had another #2 carb body. I could try swaping them out to see if it helped.

[robinjo]

If you have been running the engine and you take out the #2 plug is it wet with fuel or dry? Is the plug gap correct? 0.6 to 0.7 mm.

[Anonymous]

I'll have to check the gap.

I'll have to check the gap. I think it may be dry. It looks really clean.

I had a thought that the diaphram might be in question. I took #1 and #2 diaphrams and swaped them. Both slides were wet when I pulled them. I think this means that the main bore is getting fuel to them right? I'll have to check the plug again to see if its wet when I check the gap. Of course I'll run it again first.

[Anonymous]

Well the plug looks like its running now.

Are the center pipes just prone to being cooler than the outer ones?

I backed out the #2 air/mix screw to 3 full turns out. This is where it was when I first pulled the stoppers. Now I get that good chocklate color on the plug. The pipe still doesn't get hot though.

#1 is running rich. I have that air/mix screw down to 1/2 a full turn. Its still rich. I think I may need to take it for a ride. I think #1 may be oil fouling. Hopefuly a good hour or two romp will clear that up.

I keep checking the spark. All are still blue + I get the *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ zapped out of me when I hold the plug boot in my hand and let another body part get too close to the bike.

[gs650gt]

In my old gs650gt I had this problem twice... the reasons were

1) leaking fuel petcock diaphragm (vacuum hose is connected to #2 cyl carb)

2) burnt #2 exhaust valve

[Anonymous]

No no no.

No no no. I am in valve denial. I don't want to go thier you cant make me.

Just kidding. The petcock is good since the rebuild. Is a compression test in order? I did it once but the bike was not warmed up. I got 135 on all 4 cyl. I'll be doing it again warmed up to see if I get the right results.

What is the best way to determine the valve conditon?

Comp test, Valve shim clearance check, or peek at it some other way? I did peek at the valves through the plug hole. I pulled all the plugs and looked in while turning the back tire. All of them made an appearance so I'm sure they are not stuck. But I know that doesn't mean they are working fine. Does burnt valve mean stuck, or can I see this while the valve is open?

[gs650gt]

yes, I also think a broken valve is the last suspect... it's quite easy to hear when there are only 3 cyls running. and the compression test would give a significantly different reading (my case: 9.0-0.0-10.0-9.5).

so, back to the basics: there's either no spark or no fuel in #2 cyl. or way too much fuel.

for a start:

is there a spark? (I remember there was...?)

if the fuel petcock has been rebuilt (for sure: after test run see that the vacuum hose is dry and there's no gasoline smell...)

is there fuel in the #2 carb? is the #2 carb float stuck? (this can be checked by unscrewing the plug in the bottom of the float bowl)