Plugs going bad, why?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

HootiHoos, try to get yourself a factory manual or at least some kind of repair book. We can help you with your questions but you need to become familiar with your bike's parts or you'll have problems.

[Anonymous]

HootiHoos, try to get yourself a factory manual or at least some kind of repair book. We can help you with your questions but you need to become familiar with your bike's parts or you'll have problems.

You hit it on the head. I need to get a manual. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade so I can read a manual. I thought I could figure all this stuff out without a book, who would have thought that a 25 year old motorcycle could be so confussing? However, now when I get my book, and thanks to yalls help, I know what I need to look for, I just have to look it up in the book. The air filter did do a magical trick on the bike though. Today was day 6 on the new plugs and it ran fine. The plug base is still black but the electrode and point is fine. On the others, the whole plug was black. So I will go until these plugs foul out. Im gonna try that torch trick on the old plugs. I really hope that works. Thanks for the replies fellas, and talk at ya soon.

[earlfor]

"Reading the plugs" refers to the color on the center ceramic of the plug.
It should be a tan to medium brown, preferably more towards brown.

Earl

[quote="HootiHoos"]
The plug base is still black but the electrode and point is fine. On the others, the whole plug was black. So I will go until these plugs foul out.

[earlfor]

Apparently, its easier to replace plugs than to isolate and eliminate the cause.
:-) :-)

Earl


[quote="argonsagas"]
I haven't seen a response to Earl's suggestions:

[Anonymous]

For now, it is easier to replace the plugs. I will isolate and elliminate once I get a manual. I know that reading the plugs refer's to the ceramic electrode, but the base of the plugs being black after a few minutes of operation? That's a problem. However, the ceramic is lightly browned and the bike has ran fine now for 6 days, so maybe the air filter did the trick. I would be amazed if it did. I will keep yall posted and let you know when it fails to start. Thanks for the replies though, at least someone is trying to help. I think I am going to order a manual right now. I wish BikeBandit was a little faster with their shipping. It takes them 3 to 5 business days to ship even on express orders. There must be another company out there with our parts that ships a little faster. Oh well, at least SOMEBODY has our parts!

[argonsagas]

The base being blackened in only a few minutes indicates a too-rich mixture. If the bike seems to run fairly well, and the rest of the plug is fairly clear, the explanation may be as simple as a sticking choke or that you are keeping it ON for too long.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Try to get an actual Suzuki factory manual. Much more info.

[earlfor]

Ron is probably correct about excessive choke being responsible for the threaded base of the plugs being blackened considering the center ceramic is burning a brown color.

Once the bike starts and stays running with the choke on, if the ignition system is up to specs, (voltage and timing) and the carbs are synchronized correctly and there are no air leaks in the induction system, you should be able to push the choke to the off position in less than ten seconds while slightly opening throttle to maintain rpm until the engine is warmed up enough to idle smoothly at about 1200 rpm all by itself.
If everything is right, max of ten seconds of choke, hold the throttle slightly open for about 30-40 seconds and after one minute, it should idle hands off and you should be able to ride away. This is why I suggested you verify other things besides just cleaning the air filter. It is rare that there is a single cause for a problem. Usually, it is a combination of small things that by themselves would not be considered cause to bother with.
Little things add up. AGAIN, when setting up/tuning, the LAST thing you touch is the carbs because if everything else isnt correct, you can play with carbs until youre old and grey and you will get no where.

Earl

For now, it is easier to replace the plugs. I will isolate and elliminate once I get a manual. I know that reading the plugs refer's to the ceramic electrode, but the base of the plugs being black after a few minutes of operation? That's a problem. However, the ceramic is lightly browned and the bike has ran fine now for 6 days, so maybe the air filter did the trick. I would be amazed if it did. I will keep yall posted and let you know when it fails to start. Thanks for the replies though, at least someone is trying to help. I think I am going to order a manual right now. I wish BikeBandit was a little faster with their shipping. It takes them 3 to 5 business days to ship even on express orders. There must be another company out there with our parts that ships a little faster. Oh well, at least SOMEBODY has our parts!

[Anonymous]

One tip here on your plug problem. Check your plug boots. They have a brass plug inside that is threaded and they do get loose. Had a similar problem on my 81 1000 and that was part of the problem. I got real smart and bought some new NGK boots...but they were 5K ohm and now it doesn't fire hard enough to start. After 22 years, wires and plug boots have a tendency to be bad. Look em over.