Will Electrex provide more watts?

[Anonymous]

Reposting this ? as no answer back in Sept.

If GS850 does not have sufficient alternator output to handle aux driving lights as has been posted here, will the Electrex unit allow a pair of 55 watt driving lights to be run without trouble?
Thanks,
Douglas

[SqDancerLynn1]

Chances are that it will work fine If they are used by them selves, if you are using them in addition to the headlight It will probably be too much for the elec system. I have a 55/100w H4 in my 850 and it works fine. I would talk to someone at a motor rewinding shopYou may be able to increase the wire dia to increase the output current I think the stock stator output is about 250 watts OR just hook them up and try it

[Anonymous]

Electrex

Thanks for your response. I actually do want to use aux lighting in addition to the headlite for safety on deer populated back roads & just to throw a big flame in general. Just wanted to know if the Electrex has more wattage output than stock & if so how much.
Thanks.

[argonsagas]

Actually, your best bet in getting more light on the road is to use the newest H-4 bulbs in a good headlight unit. They look blue, but cast a white light. Big, and very well-worthwhile difference over halogen, and an incredible difference over standard sealed beams.

You don't need to raise the wattage to realise a very significant difference on both high and low beams.

[Hap Call]

I believe the stock units put out 230 Watts and using BOTH the Electrex regulator/rectifier AND stator you can get 300 Watts. That is how it works on my '81 1100...

Hap

[Anonymous]

Electrex replies

Thanks Ron & Hap for your replies.

Ron, are these "newer" H-4 bulbs just different color light or are these the 100watt units? I heard the 100 watters can cook the thin wiring although I have used a relay & 14 guage wiring to bypass this issue on my 850.
When I go to the auto parts store and look in JC Whitney catalogue there are many different hulbs. Is there some clear way to identify the bulbs you refer to? Brand, model # etc? There's just a lot of choice out there.

Thanks again for your posts.
Douglas

[saaz]

I have used a 130 bulb in mine, but only with a reflector and lense that can handle the extra heat. This requires relays and wiring to the headlight, plus relays on the ignition circuit and on the charging circuit to make the path of the current as direct as possible.

Be careful with some of those coloured bulbs. Many actually put out less effective light even thought hey may seem more effective.. I came across a site that explained the ins and outs of lighting..but forget now...

[Clone]

Does the diameter of the wire in the windings and the number of wraps affect the output of a stator? If so, then wouldn't you be able to increase your powersupply with a rewound stator? I've always been curious about this. :?

[saaz]

It is possible to increase the output, but I tried to emulate the original wiring as I did not want to experiment! It probbaly gave out a bit more when new, at the moment it may be around standard output.

[Hap Call]

Does the diameter of the wire in the windings and the number of wraps affect the output of a stator? If so, then wouldn't you be able to increase your powersupply with a rewound stator? I've always been curious about this. :?

Yes, the diameter and number of wraps do make a difference along with air gap between the rotating magnets and the stator windings. The problem with a rewind is that you are limited in the space you have in the stator slots. Also, changing the diameter and number of wraps also changes your electrical characteristics - you may end up with a higher or lower voltage output than you wanted.

Heat is a big killer in the stator (also in the regulator/rectifier) so the best you can do is to put better insulation materials in the stator that can handle the heat better. Originally the stators were wound with a class "B" insulation system that can handle heating up to 130 degrees C (I believe that is correct). There are new materials out there that are class "F" (155 degrees C), class "H" (180 degrees C), class "N" (200 degrees C), class "R" (220 degrees C) and class "S" (240 degrees C) that have much higher heat resistance...but may have some drawbacks such as being brittle and unflexible or cannot tolerate oil. Also a oil cooler will help keep oil temp undercontrol in the motor, which in turn will give you a cooler stator.

Hap

[Clone]

ok, so the 83 has a stock oil cooler on it and I have never seen my oil temp get to the top of the Normal range even on the hottest day I have ridden. So, oil temp should not kill my stator. R/R has been replaced. So I figure that route is not going to kill it. Am I safe?
Now then, isn't there a 10 -15 volt range that the stock stator puts out, depending on rpm?
Wouldn't it then be possible to rewind your stator to produce a higher current flow with a lower voltage, but still something within what the regulator can convert to 14VDC? There must be some formula to figure this out, it can't all be trail and error, can it? If there is some way, then taking your fried stock stator to a rebuilder and presenting him or her, don't want to be sexist now, with the possibility of increasing output, there should be some way of doing it.
I remember back in the early 80's when working on the combines, they would have a 100Amp alternator and they would be huge. Now, my car has a 100 Amp alternator and it is half the size. How can the two units put out the same power and be so different in size? It has to be possible with the bike stators to improve the power output?
OR is my understanding of how power is produced limiting the ability of my brain to understand how the windings/wire/magnets produce current flow

[dpep]

A concern I have always had is that if I were able by whatever means to increase the stator output a considerable amount, would the rest of the system--components, wiring--be able to handle it? What is the next weakest link? I am afraid of burning something up and being stranded on the side of the road.

Has anyone actually installed a higher capacity stator and, if so, what was your experience? What is the highest output we could get away with?

[Hap Call]

Wouldn't it then be possible to rewind your stator to produce a higher current flow with a lower voltage, but still something within what the regulator can convert to 14VDC?

You lower the voltage output and you will raise the current output...that is simple physics. The problem is that it is the higher current that kills your system...not the voltage. Current produces heat and heat kills stators. That is why when you put too much load on a stator it burns up

I remember back in the early 80's when working on the combines, they would have a 100Amp alternator and they would be huge. Now, my car has a 100 Amp alternator and it is half the size. How can the two units put out the same power and be so different in size?

The reason is improved insulation systems...they can handle the heat better so they produce more watts without burning up. They come a long way in the past 20 years.

Go to a motor rewind shop with your stator, tell them that it will be running in hot engine oil at a temperature around 200 to 210 degrees and that you need a rewind and an insulation system that can handle the heat of the oil.

Hap

[Normk]

I know this is an aged thread but can't find specs. Anyone know the rated output for the 1979 GS850 alternator?

I understand that it uses a different regulation strategy than later models? and curious as to whether there is a published specification.

Guess I should get off my behind and load test the alternator and post that....

Can someone post me to a thread with more information?

Thanks,

Norm

[Hap Call]

Norm,

The only place I know to get that info is on the spec sheet in the factory service manual. There may be other places, but I just can't think of any.

Hap