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Picked up a gs1150 yesterday and the electrics appear dead...any ideas where to start?
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Don't think you have to replace everything.
Just start at the battery and follow the wires. Using a volt meter, test for voltage at each point.
I had this happen to me and it was a bad ignition switch. You can check to see if your switch has power by removing it and test the wires.
Also check all your grounds.
Here is a wire diagram that might help you. This is from the 1150 E/ES US mode.
Gerryl -
Take Gerry's advice. Get a decent volt-ohmmeter, preferably a digital one, and go to work.
I replaced the entire system on my GS1100G....no choice. The previous owner had re-spliced the splices, and never covered them. The bike ran, (I drove it home) but corrosion was everywhere, and the charging system was shot. I won an auction for a brand new harness.
Right now, corrosion is your most likely problem. Corrosion alone will hamper or halt the flow of electricity, even with a good battery. Unfortunately, the bike was made with crimp connectors only, so if it has been in a position where the engine has suffered, the wiring unquestionably has also suffered.
Your first check with the VOM should be the fuse box, to see if it still works. If it doesn't work, you can look for one on e-bay, the local junkyard, or pull it apart and clean it. Note that most of them look alike, but the fuse connections inside are NOT the same for all bikes.
The fusebox has a series of brass strips inside that can and do corrode. Each strip has a metal clip that slips onto its end, while the other end of the clip holds the fuse.
You open it with a curved modelling blade, like an X-acto knife has, by sliding the hooked tip along the side of the fusebox, while the box is held in a vise. (Any blade will work, but the hooked blade is easier to see and work with, as some pressure is needed)
Back to the bike
Diconnect and clean ALL the connectors, from tail to headlight. A brass brush is likely the best thing to use, but use a spray lubricant/cleaner with it. It doesn't matter which one.
Hold the connector with a pair of pliers while you work, to reduce stress on the wire connection itself.
The spray will help to loosen the particles and wash them away, leaving a protected surface. The amount of oil left behind is more an appearance than reality, as it is composed mostly of solvent, which will evaporate, and it is not an electrical hindrance to worry about.
Anything that looks questionable at all should be re-connected, and that means soldering it. Wire brush the ends of any exposed wire before attempting to solder it, to ensure the best connectivity, both mechanical and electrical.
Clean the battery terminals and find a suitable place on the frame for a ground wire. Make one, to run from that point directly to the negative post on the battery, and either have a second leg or another ground wire run directly to the Regulator/Rectifier.
Once completed, make sure you have a freshly charged battery, and do your checks on the R/R and the stator.Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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Before replacing anyting, check all the connections, if the previous owner left it out or with high hummidity in the storage area you can and likly will get corosion in the connectors as well, causing a poor transfer of power to any component. take them apart and clean each connection with a soft brsss bristle brush that u can purchase at walmart for a buck ( size of a toothbrush ) then put a dab of lithium grease on each connection prior to assembly. First check the igniton connector inside the headlight pod. then go to the battery and make sure it is properly charged, at the fuse panel ensure all the fuses are good, as stated earlier by anouther rider check those connectoins with a voltmeter. Most imortantly check all of the ground wires. good luck!
Regards ArchieComment
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Well...go started on the doagnosis this morning. There looks to be some faulty wiring in a couple locations (going to the horns) abd the fuse block was bad.Comment
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Hmmmm....Originally posted by waltari
If I understand you correct, you are trying to remove the rotor, so you can reach the starter clutch?
I have removed the rotor twice on my GS 1150 1984, (for different reasons), the second time I removed the rotor, the rotor removing tool was destroyed, the bolt of the removing tool shared off, fortunally the rotor came off at the same time, my experience is that if the rotor is tightened with the correct tourqe, it is very difficult to remove if the removing tool is not fitted perfectley.
What is the reason for you to remove the rotor?
The most common problem is that the bolts for the starter clutch shared off or loosened, if you look carefully, you can see if they shared off without removing the rotor, because you can see the "other" side of the starter clutch bolts, as the threads goes through the rotor.
see also:
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Replace a couple connects and the fuseblock and all the electrics are working now. Now onto the starter clutch (if I can ever find the time)Comment
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I bent the crankshaft on my snowmachine after wacking at the rotor...you should get a guage to see if yours is also bent. How to get it off the motor? Perhaps use something to freeze it like propane (DO NOT USE PROPANE
) I've seen this done to change flywheel gears. If nobody can come up with a better idea I'd have the tool welded to the stator. You'll have to make sure that the ground is connected to the rotor. If you clamp it to the back wheel you'll weld your swingarm and crankshaft bearings solid. I remember that Scotty had this happen to him but I don't remember how he fixed it.
Good luck, SteveComment
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