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750 Oil pump in an 1100

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    #16
    OK, I got a little lost through all this... I'll make it a simple question, hopefully get a "simple" answer (I'm still not awake, and should probably re-read this when I get home from work tonight)...

    I have an 82 1100e, and a 81 750e (canadian model, if that makes a difference). Will the oil pump gear from the 750 work in the 1100? For now it is a stock motor, but not used much on the street, just at the drags, where it sits in the upper RPM's 90% of the time. Would this be a good mod?

    OK that was 2 simple questions, so I guess 2 simple answers.???....

    Thanks

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      #17
      Just want to jump in here real quick and mention that you need both gears, the drive gear that sits behind the clutch and driven gear on the oil pump.
      I know it's painfully obvious when you think about it, but during a flaky moment I only ordered the driven gear (when I had the chance to get parts at cost ).
      Just didn't want someone to make the same mistake.

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        #18
        OOOPPS! I had those moments too, brain farts...

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          #19
          Originally posted by quickie
          OK, I got a little lost through all this... I'll make it a simple question, hopefully get a "simple" answer (I'm still not awake, and should probably re-read this when I get home from work tonight)...

          I have an 82 1100e, and a 81 750e (canadian model, if that makes a difference). Will the oil pump gear from the 750 work in the 1100? For now it is a stock motor, but not used much on the street, just at the drags, where it sits in the upper RPM's 90% of the time. Would this be a good mod?

          OK that was 2 simple questions, so I guess 2 simple answers.???....

          Thanks
          Question #1: Yes. I have been running with 4 valve 750 oil pump gears in my '81 GS1100E for 2 years now. And pjackson is very correct, you need both gears, not just the one that is on the oil pump.

          Question #2: Yes, in my opinion. But, do not put the 1100 oil pump gears in the 750 and expect it to last.

          Hap

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            #20
            The gears are 38 (drive) 29 (Driven) for gs750(x), so must be a different pump and oiling passage system on the 4v

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              #21
              quickie, bear in mind that nothing is free. The GS750 gears will consume a little more power to turn than the stock ones. Minimal but measurable. If you haven't made changes to your stock GS1100, i.e. big bore kit, higher lift cams, HD valve springs, etc. you probably won't benefit much from it. Stock system provides good life with regular oil & filter changes. Remember though, for any dragstrip service, you really should weld the crank and reinforce the clutch hub.

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                #22
                I have installed the star racing high volume oil pump gears in my 1150. Its been well over ten years, ten thousand miles and many 1/4 mile passes they are avaible now part# STR1537 Price: $55.00 They list them for 1150,s and 1100,s.........................skip

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                  #23
                  Crank has been welded, and I had a HD backing plate welded on to the stock basket by Falicon. Now it developed the same symptoms as when the clutch basket initially exploded. I think the springs are rattling around in there AGAIN. I'll tear into it, when I get the engine built for the wife's race car... Gotta keep her happy, if I'm gonna be happy.

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                    #24
                    Hey, does anyone know if the 1150 had changes made to the lubrication system, since it is a higher h.p. motor, and supplied stock with an oil cooler....or does it use the same ratio gears as the 1100 to drive the oil pump.....assuming it is the same high- volume low pressure system. I will be installing the 1150 cooler on to my 1100E, and using the 1150 oil filter cover plate, but have not hunted down the 750 oil pump drivin gears yet....if the 1150 went without them, its probably o.k to run the oil cooled 1100 the same way. Any thoughts?
                    '82 GS1100E



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                      #25
                      I believe the 1100 4v and 1150 have identical oiling systems. If you plan to change to the 750 pump gears, use the 1100 filter cover.
                      The only difference between the 1100 and 1150 cover is a dimple cast inside the 1100 cover.
                      1150's using the 750 gears (and probably running at high rpm), the added oil pressure will blow a hole through the side of the filter.
                      The dimple in the 1100 cover redirects the oil and cures the problem.
                      I'm not positive that all 1150 covers don't have the dimple, but of the 5 i have taken apart, none had it.
                      Mike

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by GS1197TX
                        I believe the 1100 4v and 1150 have identical oiling systems. If you plan to change to the 750 pump gears, use the 1100 filter cover.
                        The only difference between the 1100 and 1150 cover is a dimple cast inside the 1100 cover.
                        1150's using the 750 gears (and probably running at high rpm), the added oil pressure will blow a hole through the side of the filter.
                        The dimple in the 1100 cover redirects the oil and cures the problem.
                        I'm not positive that all 1150 covers don't have the dimple, but of the 5 i have taken apart, none had it.
                        Mike
                        Thanks Mike,
                        My main reason for using the 1150 cover would be to divert oil flow through the cooler....I believe it blocks an internal passage to achieve this.If the 4v 1100 and the 1150 have identical systems, except for the cooler and cover, I can probably get away with just adding on the cooler and cover on my 4v 1100 ('82)....I planned on looking for the 750 gears at some salvage or used parts place, but so far have not gotten around to it....perhaps I will run without them next season.As for revs, I just got done running in the bike; (it is virtually out of the box new with 1200 miles on it, all but 10 of them mine), and I think it will rarely see more than 6500 rpm.
                        Heard on the radio today that its only 65 days till Spring....boy I can't wait! :P
                        Tony.
                        '82 GS1100E



                        Comment


                          #27
                          I would like to know how people find near new GSs!!!! With modern lubricants, and knowing what I do now, they should go forever...since my 78 GS1000 is still going!!!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by saaz
                            I would like to know how people find near new GSs!!!! With modern lubricants, and knowing what I do now, they should go forever...since my 78 GS1000 is still going!!!
                            Yes, it was a lucky find indeed...I saw an ad looking to sell a mint 1100E with only 25km & decided to check it out..I was actually shopping for a VFR800. It belonged to a guy with a collection of three classic bikes...this one was only ridden from the showroom to his house,& properly stored....never even registered, though he did change the oil every summer and ride it down his lane a little.He turned 50 this year & decided to let this baby go as he did'nt want a 'fast bike' anymore & bought a Harley to fill up the spot vacated by the GS! :roll:
                            Anyway, it was a hard parting for him after 20 years....I bought it from him in August, & he still calls me every so often to enquire how we (the bike & I) are doing!
                            Speaking of superior lubricants, are you running synthetic? I like castrol gtx for now...synthetic prevents proper break-in I hear, but I may go with semi-synth after a few thou. km.
                            Take it easy.
                            Tony.
                            '82 GS1100E



                            Comment


                              #29
                              Until a motor is run in, mineral oil is better to allow the break in process.

                              I run a 15-60 semi syntheic oil, but will change to a 20-60 good quality mineral oil when that runs out as I use it in the car as well.

                              I think good quality car oils (15-50 or better) semi-syntheic are at least as good as motorcycle specific oils I used to use in the 80s. Full synthic is far better, but whetehr your actually need it is an open question. As the gearbox shreds the oil, frequent chnages are a good idea. Changing the oil when needed and a good oil cooler are the main things to make the GSs last..at least my old 78 GS1000 as heat is a killer of oil.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by saaz
                                Until a motor is run in, mineral oil is better to allow the break in process.

                                I run a 15-60 semi syntheic oil, but will change to a 20-60 good quality mineral oil when that runs out as I use it in the car as well.

                                I think good quality car oils (15-50 or better) semi-syntheic are at least as good as motorcycle specific oils I used to use in the 80s. Full synthic is far better, but whetehr your actually need it is an open question. As the gearbox shreds the oil, frequent chnages are a good idea. Changing the oil when needed and a good oil cooler are the main things to make the GSs last..at least my old 78 GS1000 as heat is a killer of oil.
                                15-60 synthetic. What brand. I would love to find a multi with that range.

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