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**Anonymous** · 12-09-2003, 09:27 PM

I guess I should say just a few more things to help in the process. I'm not sure where I should have my pilot screws set to, I think that might be part of my problem. The instructions tell me to remove a #4 allen screw but there are two of them side by side, not sure which to use.

**lartross** · 12-09-2003, 11:07 PM

I have synched my carbs, poorly, several times. Billy Ricks showed me how to do it well on the last hill country ride. Float height is a criticle element of synchronization. Next, butterfly adjustment is important...then, adjust each richness screw for the quickest, smoothest idle. readjust the butterfly adjustment to equalize the manometer reading. My book says to compensate for the air box by adjusting 1 and 4 higher than 2 and 3, but, on my bike, it wasn't a factor, for some reason. [I checked it with and without air filter] You know the idle jet adjustment is usually covered by a soft metal plug that you need to remove to get to the adjustment...permantly. The other thing I've heard is, if your bike is still at the factory setting, you probably don't need to adjust the idle jet, maybe the butterfly adjustments [the ones where there are only 3 adjustable screws to set 1,3 and 4 to 2...or is it 1,2 and 4 to 3? It's obvious, when you're looking at it. Good luck...ya' can really screw it up and spend a lot of time trying to get it back in the ball park, if you're as lucky as I.

**saaz** · 12-09-2003, 11:14 PM

Also make sure the timing and valves are adjusted to spec before synching.

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Any one ever carb synchronize?

Any one ever carb synchronize?

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