bottom end bearing noises!!! oh no!!!!

[Anonymous]

on my 82 gs650g when its idling there is a distinct bearing noise from the #2 and #3 crank bearings...pretty simple repair right? engine sounds alright once off idle, except for the ticking of valve noise trough the gas tank...slowly getting louder. mind you i beat this bike up without even knowing it every time i ride it...cant help myself ya know? :P

Ian

[Anonymous]

Weel, if you have knocking bearings, they will only get worse. Only real thing to do is tear down the engine and rebuild it.

[SqDancerLynn1]

If the noise goes away when the idle is increased? I would check the cam tensioner, and possibly the clutch The GS is inherantly noisey at idle

[Anonymous]

yeah, i thought it might be the tensioner too, but when took it apart, it is tight...i dont think ill worry about it too much though, because everyone keeps telling me how bulletproof these engines are. hanks though!!

ian

[Don Lobacz]

What do you mean that the tensioner was 'tight'? How did you reassemble/reinstall it?

[SqDancerLynn1]

Recheck the tensioned from pre post: it should move:
With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further. With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out. Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block. Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn. While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back. Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively slackened. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain._________________70% '85 GS700EF/30% GSX-R

[Anonymous]

i just meant the chain was tight...mis spoke

thanks for all that info man!!

ian

[Anonymous]

...i dont think ill worry about it too much though, because everyone keeps telling me how bulletproof these engines are.

ian

Sadly that isn't true when it comes to the 650. The plain bearing cranked 650 that came in the early eighties has a rep in this country for eating its cranks. There are very few left on the roads over here and those that are have been perfectly maintained, and not abused.

Good luck. :?