torque wrench range needed

[Anonymous]

So i'm trying to put together some tools for working on my 650 and i know that various components needs torqueing.....so i "could" go through my clymer manual and note every torque setting mentioned to determine what range i need...OR....one of you technical gurus could help me out....

thanks

[Anonymous]

I can't speak for your 650 specifically, but my experience on bikes in general is that you will need two of the click-type wrenches. Typically the small wrench runs from 0-200 in*lb and the larger wrenches are 25-150+ft*lb. Yes, there is a gap between the 200 in*lb setting and the 25 ft*lb setting. You can also get a single beam-type wrench and cover a larger range, but they are more sensitive to operator technique (in reading the torque value reached) and not as convenient to use in awkward positions. The beam type are more accurate (that should stir things up a bit) than the click type and cheaper, too. YMMV


Mark

[KennyJ]

I'll second the opinion that you will need at least 2 torque wrenches. I wouldn't suggest using a "Beam" type unless it is easy to reach, read, and you can do a consistant, smooth pull.

That said, do not scrimp and purchase a cheap wrench. This is a tool you will keep forever, so spend a little extra and get a good one. Of the three I own, I have 2 Snap On's and 1 Proto. Mac makes a good one also. My friend used to calibrate tools for Continental Airlines and he told me to stick with Snap On and Proto for they seemed most accurate over the longest range of torque. Also remember, even if the range is 25 to 150 foot pounds (or inch pounds) they are not very accurte at the extreme of their ranges. What I was told was to stay away from the upper and lower 20 percent of the range if possible.

He also instructed me to leave a bit of torque dialed into the wrench when storing (around 30 ft/lbs / 360 inch/lbs) on my mid range wrench. The way the Snap On and Proto's are designed, if they are dropped with -0- torque, they will need rebuilt for something (I think he said "ball that displaces with torque") will fall out of place.

Just passsing on the data I know.
Kenny
Kenny

[Anonymous]

The beam type are more accurate (that should stir things up a bit) than the click type and cheaper, too. YMMV


Mark

I have used a beam type wrench for 25 years and found it to be very accurate. Cost around ?10 here in the UK or maybe less if I shop around.

[Anonymous]

dumb question...i'm familar with the click type...whats the beam type ?

[Anonymous]

The beam type is like a powerbar in that it is long and flexes. There is a needed welded to the socket end of the wrench and points at different numbers as the wrench bends. The factory 81 manual shows the gurus rebuilding my bike with this type.

Steve

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Beam type more accurate?
Don't listen to him Master PhilEkins, he is from the Dark Side.