I'd like to buy flywheel removal tools. Suggestions?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The local Suzuki dealer wants $125 for the flywheel holder and $77 for the flywheel puller listed in the "special tools" section for my '79 GS1000E.
There must be a better price. Have any of you bought these tools? Who can you recommend for quality? Thanks!

[Doze]

Keith, Dennis Kirk lists a clutch/flywheel holder for around $30 and you should be able to find a flywheel puller that will work at almost any auto parts store.

[Anonymous]

Keith, Dennis Kirk lists a clutch/flywheel holder for around $30 and you should be able to find a flywheel puller that will work at almost any auto parts store.

Don if we are talking about the rotor on the crank shaft((magnet wheel for altenator.)) A regular puller is usually not good because it grabs the outside of the item. The suzuki fly wheel pullers((dennis kirk 25 to 35 dollars is needed)) It pulls at the center of the rotor. And as far as a wheel holder goes. I always use a piece of wood slipped into the rear wheel with the bike in gear. I hope i understood the problem.

Just another note. I bought my flywheel puller from my Suzuki dealer. They bought it from some supply house and i think it was $25. no extra for shipping

[Anonymous]

You could make a big oil filter wrench in order to hold the rotor. I've got one that fits the clutch housing of a 1970 399E Nordic and it works very well. One of the big rubber/leather/??? belt wrenches ought to work too. I believe they have their strength rating stamped into them. The tool is probably more important when you've got the engine out of the frame or when the chain is off.

Steve

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks for the replies. I'll check out Dennis Kirk. I found a couple of pullers on the web but they don't look like the puller in my factory manual.
I know you have to be careful to get the exact puller or you can damage the assembly. The factory puller looks like a socket with a long bolt that threads into it. The two pullers I've found don't show the socket piece, just the long bolt :? . Anyone else have knowledge of these tools or actually bought one for their 1000? Thanks for any additional help!

[Anonymous]

I think that you must be sure of the size of the threads in mm that are on the end of the crank. We have had discussions and found diferent sizes and i also believe that some fellasa got the wrong sizes from thier suppliers. Measure and dont take any ones word for it((merchants) Mine has a sort of socket that threads in place of the nut that holds the wheel on and has the bolt in the center of it that causes the pulling action.
Usually the rotor wont come off with out some heavy hammer action. i had to use a small sledge.

(((( some folks use jumper cables though)))) maybe you were not around when that joke started. Sorry :?

[Clone]

I pulled the rotor off my yamaha with a balancer puller, less than ten bucks at most auto parts stores. I just threaded in the three bolts, and then started to put some pressure on the center puller bolt. I put some serious muscle power into it and then it popped off. Actually easier than I thought.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Scotty, I remember the jumper cable joke. What a riot!
By the way, my factory manual say's don't hit the rotor with a hammer, in bold type. I hope when I get around to this job, it's not a pain in the butt. That's why I want the proper tools. So far, finding the tools has been difficult but I still need to try Dennis Kirk.
I was kind of hoping that with all the home mechanics at this site, someone could tell me where they got theirs, how much and even a part # 8O . Maybe I'll try a few private messages to 1000 owners. Thanks for the replies.

[Joe Nardy]

Just a thought but maybe we could come up with an online tool crib. Just like at a factory where the tool crib is like a library, you sign tools in and out. Everyone could list what special tools they have and members could "sign them out". We could request a deposit on the tool that would be sent back when the tool is returned. Or the tool could be sent COD both ways. That way the deposit would take care of itself and save time. The tools could be shipped around to whoever needs them.

Obviously this requires a large amount of trust in your fellow members but I think most of us know each other well enough to have some trust in each other. Besides, any untrustworthy types would be identified very quickly.

Again, just a thought................

Thanks,
Joe

[Anonymous]

Kieth
some have been able to get the wheel off without a hammer but mine had to be really wolloped before it would budge.
Maybe i should have tried the jumpers 8O 8) . The explosion might have just blown the wheel off.
Now i don't remember if my wheel had bolt holes. that would be my first choice also

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Joe, your idea is great but in the real world I don't know how many of us would participate. Some of us are extremely protective of our tools and even with the deposit idea I know I for one, would'nt want to get into a situation where a tool got damaged or lost. If someone did let me borrow the tools that would be great. My original starter clutch has lasted 24 years and 120,000 miles and is only making that "clacking" sound about once every 3 or 4 starts and then only when stone cold. I don't need to fix it right now, I'd just like to buy the entire new starter clutch ($169) and the tools and have everything ready to fix it when I feel like it.
Anyways, I may never need the tools again, but I would rather buy the tools and do the job myself, than have the bike touched by a mechanic.
I would like to get the rotor holder too because I'm not so sure bracing the wheel will allow me to get the bolt loose. They can be tight.
Maybe your idea will catch on, but it would require a lot of trust, as you said.

[Joe Nardy]

Keith,

I know what you mean. I once HAD a puller for my '83 1100ED that I would have glady lent you. Unfortunately it, along with all my other spare bike parts, got lost in a move some years ago. I would bet someone on this site has the tool you need and, with all the help you've given others here, should be more than willing to let you borrow it. By the way, the rotor puller for my bike is Suzuki part number 09930-34911 and the holder is 09930-44911. My manual covers 80-83 sixteen valve GS1100's so I don't know if this puller will fit your bike.

Hope this helps,
Joe

[Joe Nardy]

Keith,

I did a search for "puller' at Dennis Kirk and found several that look just like the Suzuki part shown in my factory manual for around $25. You'll have to measure your rotor's thread size to see if they have one for your bike. Here is an example:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=282037&store=Main&productId=p282037&catId=1&leafCatId=11903

Joe

[Anonymous]

Hello Keith

Just go to a shop and purchase a stering wheel puller. You place the long bolts through the holes in the flywheel and loosen the crank bolt and leave it in place. Loosen the bolt 1/16 away from being fully seated and then tighten down the puller bolt against the crank bolt and remove the flywheel. The crank bolt is case hardend and is strong enough to withstand the added pressure and the threads will not be dammaged if you leave the bolt in place. Being taperd you only heve to break the seal away form the crankshaft then undo everything by hand. Good Luck
Regards, Archie

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Joe, thanks for the help. My manual shows the same part number as your bike uses. I checked Dennis Kirk and they have a couple of pullers that list my bike. I don't understand why I cannot find any HOLDERS though. Some members here say put the bike in gear and apply the brake and then I can loosen the rotor bolt. I hope that works because the only holder I've found is at the Suzuki dealer and they want $125 8O . I'll order the puller soon and keep trying to find an affordable holder. I don't have to replace the starter clutch immediately.
Archie, your steering wheel puller suggestion sounds good. I'm not as familiar with these parts as you are, so I have a hard time visualizing your removal instructions. Being cautious to the point of driving myself crazy, I'd rather go with the tool that's used in my manual. I do appreciate the suggestion though, probably much cheaper to buy.
If any of you find a rotor HOLDER, please let me know. The picture in my manual shows the tool as a "C" shape with a handle. I'm guessing the bolt at each end of the "C" threads into a couple of holes already in the rotor? I hope to get this tool because I don't have much faith in the previously mentioned way to break the bolt loose. Thanks again!