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    synthetic oils

    i've got an '82 gs650l and am wondering if it would be a good idea to use a synthetic oil, i'll be doing an oil change in the spring and was wondering if this is a good idea, it's got about 85 - 90 k on it right now

    as well what kind is suggested and what aftermarket parts are available for these old motors

    dave

    #2


    I use whatever is on sale as long as it does not have any special formula or friction modifiers.....those can cause the clutch to get slippery I've heard. I change the oil so often that synthetic oil is a waste of $$ for me. Mobile 1 makes a synthetic just for cycles....called M4X or something...not sure.

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      #3
      With 85K miles Unless it has been rebuilt recently I would not change to synthetic. If you do? you will probably find alot of leaks that you didn't have before. Just doing regular oil changes is more important

      Comment


        #4
        I am a big believer in synthetic oil. I started using it at 10,000 miles in my 850 and continued until 100,000 when I had a rebuild. I am now at 10,000 since the rebuild, so I will be switching back over. You don't want to use synthetic during any break-in period.

        The claim that most attracts me to synthetic is that it sticks better to metal when the motor isn't on. That means you are not completely metal-on-metal in those first seconds when you start the engine.

        If you want to go synthetic I would recommend Mobil 1 automotive oil, 20W-50 with the red cap. Worked for me for 90,000 miles. From all I have been able to determine, special motorcycle oils are formulated specifically to decrease the load in your wallet.

        I echo the importance of regular oil changes regardless of type.
        Believe in truth. To abandon fact is to abandon freedom.

        Nature bats last.

        80 GS850G / 2010 Yamaha Majesty / 81 GS850G

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          #5
          SqDancerLynn1, why would switching to a synthetic possibly make any engine leaks worse? I'm thinking of trying Mobil 1 15/50 synthetic. I have 14,000 miles since my engine re-build. I use Motul 10/40 SG rating right now.
          And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
          Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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            #6
            Keith, Lynn was refering to a high milage motor swapping to synthetic for the first time. If you were to do this you discover that quite an amount of sealing duties in your motor were actually being done by the normal sludgy deposits Dino oils leave behind, as the synthetic would flush them away and the motor would comsume a heap of oil and leak allover the place.
            However with 14000 miles on your motor since a rebuild I would recommend the switch for you, to preserve that motor for longer.
            Dink

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              #7
              Dink is correct. Synthetic had better cleaning properties so will clean out all those oil sealing deposits that older engines accumulate. I used it in my car once, and it cleaned it out so well it started to leak at the rear crank seal

              Synthetic oil is better, but you will pay a bit more for it. I have heard that it is not a good idea to try and extend oil changes like you would on a car as the gearbox chews up the oil, and an air/oil cooled motor does stress the oil. It will not degrade as quickly as a mineral oil as it handles higher temps, shear forces etc, but will not magically double your oil change mileage. If you want to give the best protection to all that nice engine work, I would go synthetic.

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                #8
                The claim that most attracts me to synthetic is that it sticks better to metal when the motor isn't on. That means you are not completely metal-on-metal in those first seconds when you start the engine.

                If you want to go synthetic I would recommend Mobil 1 automotive oil, 20W-50 with the red cap. Worked for me for 90,000 miles. From all I have been able to determine, special motorcycle oils are formulated specifically to decrease the load in your wallet.
                I am not sure about the "sticking to metal" claims that are made (there is an amazing amount of BS passed around about oils), but synthetic flows much better at lower temps on cold startup, getting up to the top end much faster and protecting your cams and bearings. It also stands up to the higher oil temps of air cooled engines and the gearbox stresses of bike engines much better than dino oils.

                I agree about the bike specific oils - they are mostly bunk and just cost more. Kind of like the differences between regular gas and premium. Just a better profit margin for the makers.

                Mobil 15W50 is also OK for bikes. I use it over the 20W50 blend because our morning temps are pretty cool here even in summer. You want to avoid the 5W30 and 10W40 (or 10W30?) blends as they have friction modifiers and can cause clutch slippage problems. I change my oil on 6000km intervals and about 3000km with dino oils, so I have doubled my intervals but they are still not very long compared to what the manual states.

                Mark

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                  #9
                  They make all of Mobil's synthetic oils three miles from my house....I'll stop by and ask them about the car/motorcycle stuff...


                  Hap

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                    #10
                    Since all of the oil companies started selling synthetic/regular "blends" a few years ago I decided to make my own "blend" (get some of the cold start bennefits of the synthetic without the high $$). I use a mix ratio of 70% regular/ 30% synthetic. The oil companies don't tell you how much synthetic they put in their "blend" (heck, they might just be putting in a couple of ounces and still charging a $1.50 more per qt.). I use it in all my bikes and cars and so far so good (don't know if it is a good idea but it makes me feel better).

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                      #11
                      Trumpets! Drum Roll! Dancin' Goils! Barkeep, a round for the house!
                      Congratulations PBDave!
                      First poster for 2004 in the never ending saga of 'what's the best oil in the world!'. OK...I was lyin' about the round for the house.

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                        #12
                        I don't think it's all that good of an idea to mix the two.

                        Why do truck tires fly off? Because somebody mixed 80w90 and 75wXX synthetic together. It ends up with the lubrication ability that of water!

                        Steve

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                          #13
                          Your point escapes me Steve. Compared to synthetic oil or gear lube, water has no lubricating qualities. No one in their right mind would grease a tire bead in mounting a tire.

                          Earl


                          Originally posted by srivett
                          I don't think it's all that good of an idea to mix the two.

                          Why do truck tires fly off? Because somebody mixed 80w90 and 75wXX synthetic together. It ends up with the lubrication ability that of water!

                          Steve
                          Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                          I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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                            #14
                            Thanks for the replies ! I have another question, (hope you don't mind PBDave) there is synthetic and SEMI-synthetic. What's the difference?
                            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Exactly Earl, mixing synthetic and regular gear oil causes things to seize. If you mix it in your differential your spider gears seize, if you mix it in your wheel hubs your wheels seize, etc.

                              I'm not sure how the manufacturers blend the oils but there most be something more to it than a bit of mixing.

                              I just realized what you meant by lubing a tire. What I meant to say is that the entire axle stub snaps off of the floating axles. Two wheels and a brake drum go bounding away.

                              Steve

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