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    Maintenance before LONG trip

    Hi, all. I'm new to GS Resources, but I've been riding my 1981 GS 850 for about 7 years. It's got 30,000 miles; Vetter fairings and Givi luggage.

    My question: I'm already daydreaming about my summer road trip. The farthest I've gone before was NJ to Wisconsin and back, via Canada. Now, I'm thinking of a "road trip" including Newfoundland, Toronto, Wisconsin, and Tennessee. What sort of preparation do you recommend for the bike?

    The background: I've had minimal problems with the bike so far, after buying it at about 12,000 miles. Had a -something- go wrong in Pennsylvania when it suddenly became impossible to shift -- the local shop said "no oil" and "transmission" and since I needed to get home instantly (my mother-in-law was in intensive care) I wasn't listening too hard -- but darn it, it had plenty of oil 100 miles before things went south. I had a clutch cable snap on me once, but hey, one clutch cable in 28K miles is no big deal.

    Then the bike was in the garage for about two years without me riding it. (Long story.) Of course, as soon as I recharged the battery, it started right back up (I *love* this bike!). Got a tune up & oil change, then took it back on the road -- I've ridden about 200 miles since then before winter set in.

    So -- some things, I know I'll need to get updated before I go, like tires. Other things, I suspect would be prudent to change now before I get stranded in Newfoundland -- if the clutch cable snapped, I'd better check the throttle cables.

    Anything else you'd recommend? Spares I should carry? "Growing pains" that set in at 30,000 miles?

    Thanks!

    #2
    Going through the maintenance section and doing everything in there would be a good start. I don't think anybody has actually changed their brake lines after 2 years though. You'll also need to figure out what tools to bring so you should write down everything that you use. At 70+ dollars an hour it's pricey to have everything on a long trip done at the shop.

    You'll probably need a set of good tires thrown on too, K491 Elite IIs or Metzeler 880/88 combo is another favourite. The guys say that they've been getting 10-15k miles with these.

    Then you can take your bike for a 1 or 2 day trip and see what falls off. When I did this I ended up boiling my battery dry, seizing a back brake, and finding that I didn't know how to adjust my chain properly. Not bad for my first trip out of town!

    Steve

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      #3
      1. Change oil. Again on trip too.
      2. Check/preferably replace Battery.
      3. Take one of those tire repair kits with the CO2 bottles on it.
      4. Spare fuses-Trust me on this one.
      5. Small tool bag (of course)
      6. rags in case you have to 'get dirty'.
      :twisted:

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        #4
        The CO2 pumps are good but if you get one you'll want one that has bicycle style manual pump built in. The co2 goes stale and your tire deflates.

        Steve

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          #5
          Before you set out on your long trip, remove the rear wheel. Chances are you'll do so to replace the rear tire with a new one before the trip, right?

          Remove the driven gear from the wheel hub. This is the gear that meshes with the drive gear from the final drive unit, aka differential. Examine closely the splines. Are they beginning to wear? Does each spline have a consistent thickness throughout its length?

          If the answer is no, then replace this gear. Also, if no, then examine the diff's splines. Worn splines lead to worn splines. The driven gear is an expensive part, but it's better to replace it before the trip. I was stranded 180 miles from home when mine stripped back in 1987. Never again! Then make sure you lube the splines on the new driven gear.

          If the answer is yes, lube the splines with black moly grease, replace the rear tire, re-install the rear wheel, and you're all set.

          While you have the rear wheel off, it's easier to replace the rear brake pads with everything disassembled, so you may want to replace those pads at this time, just to be safe.

          You may have heard this advice and already are following it. I thought I'd pass on what is a critical element of a safe, enjoyable, long trip -- few things are more frustrating than to sit by the side of the road, with a perfectly good running motorcycle, engine running perfectly, all systems go, except it won't move because the splines are stripped.

          Nick

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            #6
            Another tip- buy a spare clutch cable & tie-wrap it to your existing cable so you have a spare. Replace your cheap factory tools with good quality tools.
            Keep a list of Suzuki dealer along your route.
            Go onto the Iron Butt Association website. They have lots of tips for safe long-distance travel.
            Let us know when you're going. I'm in Toronto & I'm sure any one of us wold be willing to assist you if you have trouble in this area.

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              #7
              Suggestion: get yourself an Electrex stator and regulator. That way nothing will happen on your trip -- guaranteed!

              Don't bring the above with you will result in pulling a Ron Martin (argonsagas) imitation -- the last thing you wanna do, especially in the Maritimes!

              Nick

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                #8
                Thanks for the suggestions!

                Srivett, I actually replaced the stock brake lines with braided stainless before I ever brought the bike home. This led the guy at the dealership to comment, "Hey, I thought Suzukis just had squishy brakes! I need to remember this!" And I didn't know that the CO2 canisters go flat.

                I've been using Metzeler 33/99. Haven't been getting up to 10k miles out of them, but they feel so nice....

                Propflux01, yeah, I've found out about spare fuses the hard way.

                Nick, I hadn't thought about checking the splines. Thanks! And I've heard before that the electrics are the GS's weak point. I've been nervous about any modification that involves electricity (installing a new radio in the Vetter fairing, for example) because of the electricity woes.
                How physically big are the stator and regulator? It sounds like you were giving semi-sarcastic advice (bring an umbrella so it won't rain) but I'm not averse to buying spares now, when I can still get them, rather than wait another few years until things go wrong only to find that I can't find replacements anymore.

                Cruzuki, I'm a tool junkie. Back when I first learned how to ride, I had a used Yamaha Seca 400. When I dumped it, doing about $200 worth of damage, I bought $500 worth of tools -- it seemed like a good excuse, and fortunately my husband also has the "there's nothing more expensive than a cheap tool" philosophy. I don't often use the tools that came with the bike. Instead, whenever I work on the bike, I used The Good Stuff -- and any tool, ratchet, socket, whatever I used that day goes into the bike's toolkit. If it came from the garage kit, I have to buy a new one to replace it -- the bike gets first dibs. If I'm on the side of the road, I want the easy-to-use, fits-right-the-first-time, won't-break-in-my-hand stuff.
                Plus either swiss army knife or Leatherman.

                Also plan to bring repair manual & fix-a-flat.

                But there's something about a long trip that always lets you find out what you forgot to pack...

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                  #9
                  Yes, I was being a smart alleck, while trying to bring out a very important point. The stator and regulator take very little room. Wrap each of them well and you could even fit them both inside the right pocket of your Vetter Windjammer. Electrex, which sponsors this site, carries these stators and regulators for your 850.

                  It isn't a matter of if, but when the stator and/or regulator-rectifier will fail on our machines. Clean the connections to stator, and run a wire directly from one of the mounting bolts on the regulator to the negative post of the battery. A bad ground is often the reason for reg/rect failure.

                  Another recommendation before the trip: change the oil in the forks and install new seals. If the seals are old, they'll start to leak when you're hundreds of miles from home. I have my mechanic change the fork oil, using 20W fork-specific oil, and new seals every two or three years. If you haven't had the seals replaced in a while and/or the fork oil changed, it's only a metter of time.

                  A radio won't bother the electrics on your 850. It's only those auxiliary lights and electric vests, etc., that draw too much power off the GS's marginal system. Don't worry about the radio or the running fairing lights.

                  Solid electrical connections, a grounded regulator, a new or very recently purchased battery -- this is the recipe to a likelihood of no electrical or charging problems during the trip.

                  I would replace the throttle cable if I were you, especially since it's original equipment.

                  Nick

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                    #10
                    ELECTRIC VESTS!?!?!!?!?! 8O 8O Why was I not told about this!!

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                      #11
                      Interesting question.

                      First let me say that, going on a long trip on an old bike that you have not ridden more than 200 miles in the last two years is, how should I say this.....NUTS!

                      As far as the Zen of this is concerned, if you have to ask what maintenance should be performed on this bike before a long trip, then you and the bike are not one. If you're not one, you cannot prepare for the unknown, because it is all unknown.

                      In essence, you have to assume that anything can go wrong and be prepared for the consequences.

                      You have in your favor of course, the fact that you'll be riding a Suzuki GS which would be enough reason for me to undertake such a journey but, I am one with my bike.

                      I would go through the owner's manual and the service manual and perform all suggested maintenance. Then I would make sure I have a good cell phone with a couple of spare batteries, $500 cash, a road service card, a credit card, a bottle of Jack Daniels and a gun. Oh yes and a new bike.

                      Have a nice trip!

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                        #12
                        You know, if you belong to the Auto Club you can now add your bike to your emergency roadside service. Check it out. I think the cost is pretty reasonable. But if you get a flat or need a tow they'll come and help you.

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                          #13
                          check your wheel bearings. its better to start off with a new set or at least have them lubed realy good. if you need a new set any bearing store or auto parts dealer should be able to find a set cheep.

                          that little nut that holds the speedo and tack cable. every time i took a long trip one or the other came loose. not good when you are doging speed traps.

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                            #14
                            You mentioned a gear box lock-up and potential fluid leakage problem. Have you checked the gear box fluid level since you had this problem If it is dropping you need to figure out where the oil is going. If your valves have never been adjusted they are over due. I would also change all the fluids (including gear box, forks, final drive, brake fluid).

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Here is some advice I posted on a similiar thread over in the General Discussion a couple of days ago, edited slightly.

                              Be mindful of the heat and your air cooled engine. Don't get into heavy traffic in the hot parts of the day. If you have the bucks make the Electrex stator and RR switch. The newer, stronger stator will handle more heat. At the very least make the RR switch, Electrex or Honda, recommended in many places on this site.

                              Between now and when you leave put the following into your Winjammer: a full set of control cables, fuses, bulbs, spark plugs, short lengths of diff guage electrical wire, hose clamps, cable ties, Goop, JB Weld, quart of oil, pint of brake fluid, and the tools needed to easily install the above. Also a small tube of hand cleaner, a rag, small flashlight, a tire repair kit, a small DC pump, and motorcycycle jumper cables. Definitely include a small multimeter. Also drop a spare key to the bike into the fairing. You are prepared for 98% of the things most likey to end or severely disrupt your trip. The only real expense is the cables which you will eventually need to replace anyway; you just bought them ahead of time.

                              Before you leave do a thorough prep--change oil and gear lubes, lube the cables, replace the tires if they aren't fairly new and be sure the splines get lubed when you do. Separate the handlebar switches and spray the insides with contact cleaner. Switches are the other 2% of things most likely to stop your trip.

                              If you have a cell phone, you may want to confirm your carrier has coverage all along your route. Usually not a problem along interstates, but don't take it for granted. Also, check in with your credit card company; some of them have a security block that will cut off the card if a lot of out-of-town purchases suddenly start appearing.

                              Don't forget your Leatherman and Swiss Army Knife. Enjoy.
                              Believe in truth. To abandon fact is to abandon freedom.

                              Nature bats last.

                              80 GS850G / 2010 Yamaha Majesty / 81 GS850G

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