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**Hoomgar** · 03-03-2004, 08:03 PM

The VIN comes up as a 82 KZ550 C3 but the bike was made mid 81.
OK
The kill switch is good for sure. It only breaks one wire and it is on or off and I tested it right at the switch as well as at the ends of the wires that go up into the headlight from it. It is all good. Also, with it connected, I can crank with it on and cannot with it off so it is getting juice for sure.

However no matter what you do you cannot get juice to the coils.

Does that tell us anything?

**Anonymous** · 03-03-2004, 09:36 PM

hi hoomgar;

Alrighty then you probably don't want to hear this again but, open the handlebar control for the starter, kill switch, etc. You should find a yellow wire for 12 volts into the switch. You should also have a black wire for the starter interlock. Then you should have a blue and a brown wire and another color(don't remember color ya know the mind thing) for the lights. You should also have the yellow/red wire for the coils. Follow the yellow/red wire into the switch housing and see where it is fastened to.

You probably will find it screwed into a metal plate. Check this metal plate to be sure it is not broken or full of spider webs or something that will keep it from making electrical contact. A lot of times these will get wet over the years and will corrode and will not let the electricity flow through them. The best way to check for electrical flow is to find the 4 wire pin that holds that yellow/red wire and pull the pin housing apart and check the pin for 12 volts coming down from the handlebar switch. If you don,t have power there then the problem is in the switch. If power then the wire between the 4pin connector and the coil is bad or the 4 pin connector is corroded. You might also be sure that you have hradlights as they are also on the same switch i believe. But don't assume that because you have power at the black starter wire you have power everywhere. Thats what makes troubleshooting electrical so diffucult.

**Hoomgar** · 03-03-2004, 10:09 PM

I think I am lost now? That's what I just did. I took all that apart and have verified that the switch is good. It works. Took apart everything you mentioned there just now earlier and there is no corrosion. Turn the switch on, push the start button and it cranks. Turn the switch off and press the start button and nothing. Headlight and all lights work. I tested the wires between each connector in the runs were looking at and they all have continuity and none are shorted to ground. The only thing I didn't do is check for voltage at the switch, which if it works has to be there right? I am going to check it right now. BBIAF.

BTW, I just won this

--> Ebay item#2463047191

**Hoomgar** · 03-03-2004, 10:12 PM

OK I have voltage at the switch. It is hot.

**Hoomgar** · 03-03-2004, 10:40 PM

Come on Earl, don't be afraid to dive back in, I know your thinking about this, give me your thoughts

**Anonymous** · 03-04-2004, 07:43 AM

hey hoomgar;

Ok if power is everywhere from the switch you need to check for power at the 4 pin plug where the yellow/red wire is at. It might be in the headlight assy. or by the frame but wherever pull the connector apart and check for power at that point. Be sure to check for 12 volts not just continuity as you are losing power someplace along that wire. There might be another 4 pin connector along the way also. I know some kz's had one in the headlight assy and some had a second one down by the coils. But keep checking along the yellow/red wire until you find where you are losing the power. It has to be between the switch and the coil somewhere and without the 12 volts you ain't going to energize the ignitor or coils.

**bustinjustin2k** · 03-04-2004, 09:40 AM

Hey Hoomgar,

I noticed you said Earlfor was helping you, any friend of Earl's is a friend of mine. Sadly I dont know jack about motorcycle except some coil tests and stuff that Earl tought me

BUUT! My Clymer book does tell how to test an ignitor you had asked about. My bike is a 1982 GS650 different I know, but (shrug) worth a shot. You seem cycle savy it may give you some ideas. Keep in mind the color of the wires could definatly be different but I doubt the test itself would differ that much. This is probably a waste of my time typing this and a waste of your time reading it but HERE GOES! :P

Igniter Unit Test

1. Remove the spark plug leads from #3 and #4 spark plugs. Remove the spark plugs and reconnect the spark plug leads. Lay both spark plugs against the cylinder head so that each plug is grounded on the head.

2.Disconnect the signal generator wire connector ("shrug" hopefully you know where that is?)CAUTION: Ensure that the polarity is observed for this test or the igniter unit will be destroyed. The ohmmeter negive lead connects to the black/white wire on the igniter unit side of the connector and the positive lead connects to the green/white OR brown wire on the igniter unit side of the connector. NOTE: this test utilizes the 1 1/2 volt battery in the ohmmeter to simulate the pulse from the signal generator. A 1 1/2 volt power source such as a dry cell battery can also be used for this test.

3. Turn on the motorcycle Ignition.

4 Set the ohmmeter to R1 scale and connect the negative (-) lead to the black/white lead on the igniter unit side of the connector.

5. Connect the ohmmeter positive (+) lead to eather the green/white or brown wire on the igniter unit side of the connector. This simulates the pulse from the signal generator.
As the positive lead is connected to the igniter unit connector, one spark plug should fire. When the positive Lead is connected to the other wire in the igniter unit connector, the other spark plug should fire. If bothe spark plugs are properly grounded and one or both fail to fire, replace the igniter unit.

6. Install both spark plugs. Reconnect the igniter unit wires.

DONE

I know if you wait long enough you will find a CDI or ignitor on ebay, Im sure you know that too. If there is a bike wreaking yard in your area ask them what interchanges on ignitors for your bike. I know that car yards carry that information in there computers.

I hope I was of atleast SOME help.

Have you tried cussing? Duct tape? Im all out of ideas if so :P

**bustinjustin2k** · 03-04-2004, 09:46 AM

There is a wiring harness for sale on Ebay for a 1980 KZ550 it looks like it has coils and other goodies attached to it. 8) I dont know exactly what your ignitor looks like but it may even be connected to that sucker.

CHECK IT OUT http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=35594

ends soon CHOP CHOP!

Justin

**bustinjustin2k** · 03-04-2004, 09:50 AM

now that I think about it you kawasaki dealer should have information on the interchange of parts as well.

this possibly useless information was brought to you by,
BustinJustin2k

**Hoomgar** · 03-04-2004, 11:34 AM

Originally posted by overboardkat

hey hoomgar;

Ok if power is everywhere from the switch you need to check for power at the 4 pin plug where the yellow/red wire is at. It might be in the headlight assy. or by the frame but wherever pull the connector apart and check for power at that point. Be sure to check for 12 volts not just continuity as you are losing power someplace along that wire. There might be another 4 pin connector along the way also. I know some kz's had one in the headlight assy and some had a second one down by the coils. But keep checking along the yellow/red wire until you find where you are losing the power. It has to be between the switch and the coil somewhere and without the 12 volts you ain't going to energize the ignitor or coils.

OK then that's my next step. I'll do that when I get home tonight and post my findings. Thanks.

**Hoomgar** · 03-04-2004, 11:41 AM