Regulator?rectifier fix

[Anonymous]

I am not sure if this works but $5 is better that $100 so check it out

http://204.29.80.50/restore/diode/diode.html

hope it helps somebody out there!

[Hap Call]

Re: Regulator?rectifier fix

I am not sure if this works but $5 is better that $100 so check it out

http://204.29.80.50/restore/diode/diode.html

hope it helps somebody out there!

I would add a few capacitors in there to smooth out the DC "wave"...without them it could hammer the battery and some of your electronics a good bit.

Hap

[Anonymous]

I didnt read the information but the first thing that came to my atention is the 2 wires going to the stator. I thought we had 3 windings in the gs setup.
what am i missing??

BTW I did that fix on a merc outboard about 20 years back but the setup had two wires. I believe we were pirating current from the magneto.

[Anonymous]

yes Scotty ours have 3. however we can tap the third wire into both sides and I myself would also place some capacitors inline as well. I have done that mod on my honda cb200t, cb450sc as well and they worked great but I still like the easiness of our friends pre built system from Electrex.

[Anonymous]

Capacitors

The added capacitors mentioned may be overkill. You can't build a better power supply filter than a lead acid battery.

[Anonymous]

the caps aren't for a filter purpose they are more for stabilizing the dc current from the regulator because the stator is pulsed A/C.

[Anonymous]

More discussion

Suzuki,and most all modern vehicles, uses a 3 phase alternator. This produces a complex sine wave out of the alternator, rather than pulsed AC, starting a "new" sine wave every 120 deg. of rotation instead of every 360 deg. This will level off any "dips" in the sine wave. This output is then applied to a "full wave" bridge rectifier effectivly doubling the ripple frequency and further leveling off any "dips" in the sine wave. Then applied across the battery which tends to smooth out any remaining ripple.

[Anonymous]

And more discussion

Reference the link posted by Mark Monger; As to the use of the Radio Shack bridge rectifier as a replacement for the OEM rectifier. Suzuki uses a 6 diode bridge. The RS bridge has but 4 diodes. The Suzuki alternator routes out its 3 phases independently hence the three wires. Two of the phases are connected directly to the bridge and supply charging current to the battery. Phase 3 is routed through the head light switch and connects to the bridge only when the head light is turned on, supplying the extra current needed for the lights. This is a unique approach but understandable when you consider the regulator circuit. Consisting of a zener diode that switches on an SCR that shunts the rectifier current to ground when the battery has reached full charge. Were all 3 phases applied to the bridge at all times (no headlight switch) the SCR would be passing 1/3 more current to ground at full battery charge. Remember, HEAT is the enemy of solid state devices.
The 4 diode RS bridge would work in theory, only 2 of the 3 phases from the alternator supplying all the current, day and night and placing a heavier load on the bridge with lights on. Also, the OEM regulator/rectifier module being replaced by the RS bridge would eliminate the requlator. This will "boil" your battery. There are ways to get around these problems but to simply replace OEM bridge with the RS bridge is not the answer.