Odds of crewing up a tune up?

[92G]

I'm at the point of having the $ to tune up my bike. I think the cost is a little less if I do it myself, than if I take it to someone. I don't have the tools, so that's the primary investment the 1st time around.

I have average mechanical skill, so I think I can handle it, but I'm really fond of my motorcycle, and don't want to screw things up.

Am I better off doing myself, or taking it to someone else?

Also, can someone recommend a place to get those fine feeler gauges for the tappet adjustment? Any onther tool recommendations are apprecitaed as well. I still need a low range torque wrench as well.

Thanks for the advice.

Terry

[daveo]

If you have an 8 valve model, you'll need the tool to depress the valve springs to change(adjust) the shims, if you have a 16 valve, you'll need the tool to hold the adjuster shanks (square female) while tightening the locknuts. You'll need a manometer(mercury sticks or equivalent) to balance the carbs. If you have a points ignition, a dwell meter is handy to set point gap, but can be done with feeler guages, a timing light is also handy, but a 12V test light hooked to the neg. coil terminal will also work. Best Wishes

[earlfor]

Re: Odds of crewing up a tune up?

Terry, what bike do you have? year?

Earl


[quote="92G"]I'm at the point of having the $ to tune up my bike. I think the cost is a little less if I do it myself, than if I take it to someone. I don't have the tools, so that's the primary investment the 1st time around.

I have average mechanical skill, so I think I can handle it, but I'm really fond of my motorcycle, and don't want to screw things up.

[92G]

Re: Odds of crewing up a tune up?

Terry, what bike do you have? year?

Earl

Earl,

Its an 82 GS650G. It has about 9200 miles on it.

It seems to run Ok, but at about 4500 rpm the vibration starts to come in. I'd like to get to run smoother. I've also noticed that the valve's tapping has a different quality of sound than it did when I bought it. It doesn't sound necessarily bad, but definately different.

Thanks,

Terry

[earlfor]

Re: Odds of crewing up a tune up?

Terry, I believe (I dont have a 650 G) that model would have a non adjustable electronic ignition, so there is nothing to do with that part.
You would have a bucket and shim valve train. Average milage on that type of valve train before wearing enough to be out of tolerances is probably in the 40,000 range. Having only 9200 miles on the bike, I would be shocked if the valve clearances were beyond spec's. I think there is a 95% chance your only problem is the carbs are not sychronized as well as they need to be. Poor carb synch will cause vibration levels you would not believe. When I first got my 79 750, the vibration level at 50-60 mph was so bad through the handlebar grips, my hands went completely numb in 15 minutes. I carefully synch'd the carbs and it is now one of the smoothest bikes I have ridden.

Have you check the colors of the center ceramic of all four spark plugs?
If the sychronization is perfect, they will all look exactly the same.

Earl

Earl,

Its an 82 GS650G. It has about 9200 miles on it.

It seems to run Ok, but at about 4500 rpm the vibration starts to come in. I'd like to get to run smoother. I've also noticed that the valve's tapping has a different quality of sound than it did when I bought it. It doesn't sound necessarily bad, but definately different.

Thanks,

Terry

[92G]

Re: Odds of crewing up a tune up?

Have you check the colors of the center ceramic of all four spark plugs? If the sychronization is perfect, they will all look exactly the same.

It seems as if I've noted where a few people have suggested that synching the carbs without 1st adjusting the valves is not a good idea, or waste of time. I take it you have a different opinon. That's fine with me as it will save a little money and time.

I'll check the plugs asap. Unfortunately my Explorer is having problems, it won't crank(I think my battery cables are shot), so the GS just took a step down on the priority list today. .

Thanks,

Terry

[Anonymous]

you don't have enough miles on your bike to worry about your valves being out of adjustment but your carbs are more than likely out of sync. and yes you can sync your carbs without needing to adjust your valves. On my 750 I have syncked my carbs twice to every valve adjustment (this was before it was shipped to Germany and back) also it is said alot but not nearly enough get a Manual if you don't have one. it is the best tool that your money can buy before you dig into the mechanics of your motorcycle. Happy Tinkering

[earlfor]

Re: Odds of crewing up a tune up?

Terry, i recently checked the valce clearances on my 750 (36,000) miles.
Specification is 1 to 3 thousandths clearance. I have a couple right at 3 thou, but most read 2 thou. If we say that when new, the clearance was 1 thou, then we see that the max wear in 36,000 miles has been 2 thousandths. Too tight a valve clearance is a NO NO, but it doesnt hurt anything if they are a bit loose, other than being a tad more noisy than is absolutely necessary. I probably will not do a valve adjustment until I have a couple going past 4 thousandths clearance. I expect that will be around 45,000 miles or more. With your milage, I can pretty much say there is no way in Hell your valves are worn beyond specifications. If you have time to waste, money to burn and are really bored, reshimming your valves could have a useful purpose, but other wise, if they are within factory specs, there is no point. I can say for a certainty, it is not required to re shim your valves eyery time you adjust your carbs.

Earl

It seems as if I've noted where a few people have suggested that synching the carbs without 1st adjusting the valves is not a good idea, or waste of time. I take it you have a different opinon. That's fine with me as it will save a little money and time.

I'll check the plugs asap. Unfortunately my Explorer is having problems, it won't crank(I think my battery cables are shot), so the GS just took a step down on the priority list today. .

Thanks,

Terry

[Anonymous]

Earl,
What are you measuing the clearance of? The top of the tappet and the crank (obviously not the lobed part?) Are you using a regular feeler gauge?

Josh

[92G]

Thanks guys.

I'll skip the valves for now, and go for the carbs.

Is there really any difference between the air gauge or mercury manometers. There is also another device caled a Morgan CarbTune that looks good, but its ~$40 more than the others.

Thanks again,

Terry

[Anonymous]

Terry: I've got a motion pro mercury tuner and I've got to say I don't like having it around. It does work well but unlike most tools you've got to take care of it and worry about people messing around with it once they see the mercury.

Steve

[earlfor]

With the cam lobe pointed perpendicular and away from the cylinder head I'm measuring the gap between the shim and the camshaft. I have an ancient, long bladed feeler guage set I use for checking clearances.

Earl

Earl,
What are you measuing the clearance of? The top of the tappet and the crank (obviously not the lobed part?) Are you using a regular feeler gauge?

Josh

[92G]

Terry: I've got a motion pro mercury tuner and I've got to say I don't like having it around. It does work well but unlike most tools you've got to take care of it and worry about people messing around with it once they see the mercury.

Steve

Thanks Steve,

Terry

[Anonymous]

I have the guage style of carb synch tool, but I highly recommend the standard mercury style for easy use. I only have the guage style for use with cars as well as bikes. However it is more for technicians than hobbiests.
As for doing a tune-up on your bike as far as I am concerned the only way to get it done is to do it yourself. It is very easy, not very time consuming, and it is always better to know the guts of the machine your riding.

No officer I wasn't doing 80 your Radar must be broke...I was doing at least 110. :twisted: