Manifold

[Anonymous]

I have been pondering making a manifold between the carbs and head using lightweight aircraft aluminum. I plan on going with pod air filters and a mac 4-1 exhaust and dynojet stage III for the carbs. I guess my question has to do with the technical aspect of adding a larger or longer manifold versus the original rubber. Also should I alter the diameter or the shape of the hole. This way I figure I wont need to make a bracket to hold the carbs when the pods are installed. Anyway I am looking for anyone that has done something like this. I know on cars when you increase the volume of the manifold you increase power.
Now on a more realistic note how much would all this affect driveability. I ride this bike 45 minutes to work every day and on long trips on the weekends.

What's the red button do? 8O

[Anonymous]

Addy Leung made some for his 1100 and is selling a set or two. Somebody else here has done this as well.

Steve

[Anonymous]

Stay away from Mac exhausts. Spend the extra cash on a Vance+Hines or SuperTrap.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Mac is just a generic replacement You need the rubber intakes, otherwise the carbs will shake themselfs appart

[Anonymous]

Normally I would agree with the Vance and Hines however the pipes are given to me free. Somehow I just can't justify spending the money on V+H when I have a freebee. But someday I will give in to my primal urge for power. As for shaking themselves apart I cant see how when they are attached to a metal manifold. I had a 76 chrysler 400 that was worked and in fact I had to strengthen the frame because it would twist during wheelies and it was bolted directly to the riser than manifold with no rubber whatsoever. And the older Harleys were metal manifolds and that is what you could call a milkshake maker. Besides if I experiance this problem I could always make rubber risers. But I was wondering how well they actually work and tech aspects. But thanks all for input I wouldn't even have thought of vibration as I have no noticeble VIbes in my bike. It's nice to cever all bases.

[earlfor]

Re: Manifold

I would stay away from aluminium mount tubes because possible vibration problems. High frequency vibration, though unfelt by a rider, will cause stress cracking in aluminium. Aluminium has a very low fatigue resistance. Also, metal will transfer heat and heating the carbs will decrease power.

Earl

I have been pondering making a manifold between the carbs and head using lightweight aircraft aluminum. I plan on going with pod air filters and a mac 4-1 exhaust and dynojet stage III for the carbs. I guess my question has to do with the technical aspect of adding a larger or longer manifold versus the original rubber. Also should I alter the diameter or the shape of the hole. This way I figure I wont need to make a bracket to hold the carbs when the pods are installed. Anyway I am looking for anyone that has done something like this. I know on cars when you increase the volume of the manifold you increase power.
Now on a more realistic note how much would all this affect driveability. I ride this bike 45 minutes to work every day and on long trips on the weekends.

What's the red button do? 8O

[jimcor]

As Earl stated you'll have vibration probs. I remember reading of someone trying a metal manifold on the old Yamaha 650 mill, a notorious shaker, with poor results. Went back to the rubber mounts.

[SqDancerLynn1]

As I remember the adapters you are thinking about were to adapt an oversized carb to the existing manifolds

[earlfor]

It also occurs to me that vibration could cause the float needles from ever closing off the fuel supply and you could end up with float bowls constantly overflowing out the drain tubes. That would play havoc with trying to have a uniform fuel level in the float bowls.

Earl

As Earl stated you'll have vibration probs. I remember reading of someone trying a metal manifold on the old Yamaha 650 mill, a notorious shaker, with poor results. Went back to the rubber mounts.