Vacuum gauge reading

[Detman101]

"Today was the first time it started cold without putting my hand over the carb air intake to richen the mix enough to make it fire. I think the hand is probably necessary because of the low vacuum readings. I need the hand trick when the engine is warmed up also"


Earl already picked up on this but when I read it I was thinking back to Scotty reminding me that all GS's don't run right unless the air intake system is SEALED OR the carbs have been rejetted.
Having a stock system and taking the intake box off of it wil cause all kinds of havoc. It's probably why it won't idle right.

"Gs's like a little restriction..." - Slowpoke '04
:P

[Anonymous]

Hi! I've been looking for the stuff that goes between the carbs and the filter box. There's a good picture of what goes in there on bike bandit but that main piece isn't even numbered. What's the common name for it so I can search easier? I read somewhere that I could try putting something across part of the carb air inlet to simulate the restriction caused by the stock setup, does this sound possible? Or is it a "forget it" that won't work?
My bike that I used to ride all the time burned in the recent So. Calif. fires (not insured) so I'm trying to see if this gs 550 is worth putting more money into. I think it's the "L" model and it looks like a real motor cycle the more I work on it the more I appreciate it's technology.

I've got some more info about vacuum gauge readings. John Morgan from Carbtune says;

A motorcycle can read from 2 inches of mercury (inHg) to 18 inHg depending on model. I don't know what manufacturer made your 550cc. For a "typical" 4-cyl 550 cc you'd get a reading range from 6inHg to 12inHg so the reading you have is in that range.


I hope everybody else here can use this info. it was hard to find.

[Anonymous]

Hello all!
I've worked on the 550 some more. Now it runs well enough to almost idle right. I still have a problem though.
I've replaced the "O" rings in the intake boots and found that they are still leaking a small amount.
I took off the worst one and put a straight edge on the flange that goes against the head and found the ears slightly bent. I filed the flange flat. put it back on and it still leaks. The "O" rings are from the dealer.
Is this something that can be fixed without buying new boots?

[earlfor]

I am pretty sure I saw someone post that those boots are available from bikebandit for about $12 each. I would buy a new set of four so I could forget about that problem for the rest of the time I owned the bike.
As a temp fix, you can buy a tube of Boatlife LIFE SEAL. It is a urethane/silicone compound and is very resistant to heat and gas. Put a bead of it over the seam between the boot flange and the cylinder head.
It will seal the leak. (clean the area that you intend to apply the sealer to with alcohol or acetone) Boatlife makes various types of sealants and caulking, be sure you get LIFESEAL........that is the exact name on the tube. Get nothing else. Any marina or marine supply store will either have it or will order it for you. A small tube usually costs about $5

Earl

Hello all!
I've worked on the 550 some more. Now it runs well enough to almost idle right. I still have a problem though.
I've replaced the "O" rings in the intake boots and found that they are still leaking a small amount.
I took off the worst one and put a straight edge on the flange that goes against the head and found the ears slightly bent. I filed the flange flat. put it back on and it still leaks. The "O" rings are from the dealer.
Is this something that can be fixed without buying new boots?

[Anonymous]

Thanks Earl.
I'll try the lifeseal. That's exactly what I wanted to know. I can't put any money in this machine until I'm sure it's worth it.
I looked on Bike Bandit today and the boots are around $25.00 each.