Hard to start 82 GS1100GK

[Giblet]

My bike gets increasingly difficult to start when the temperature falls below 40F and pretty much refuses to start at/or near freezing. Once the temperture warms up a few degrees it cranks immeadiately. I am running 5W30 oil for the winter and the engine turns over freely. The choke doesn't seem to have any effect on it at all when it is that cold. The mechanism is moving and holds the throttle open while it is warming up when/if it cranks. The petcock is new, Suzuki original equipment as are the vacuum lines. I'm assuming it is getting fire because it cranks easily when it is warm. I need to check that when it is cold. Any other ideas?

[Anonymous]

I have an 84 GK which starts immediately. Sounds to me as if you could use a complete carburetor cleaning, especially the pilot jets. The symptoms you describe should be nonexistent in a GK, if tuned properly.

There's another thread on this forum about the cost of carb cleanup. Believe me, it's worth it. I never have to worry about my engine starting right away, even in the coldest Maryland weather, which is probably colder than where you live.

Nick

[Don Lobacz]

When I replaced the stock coils (on my GS1000) with Dyna coils, the most noticeable improvement was cold weather starting.

[Giblet]

Forgot to mention one thing

It also momentarily bogs down when I crank the throttle open quickly while getting on the freeway. When the engine catches up its "Katy bar the door & Hang On". Does this sound like dirty carbs too? I'm pretty sure it sat with fuel in it for at least 3 or 4 years.

[Anonymous]

It helps a little to raise the idle speed a few hundred RPM during the winter. I usually set my 400 to 1200 RPM so it starts better since touching the throttle usually messes up the starting process. Aftermarket pipes and carb mods are supposed to make cold starting tougher too.

Steve

[SqDancerLynn1]

If it sat for 3-4 years it would probably need the carbs cleaned or at least some carb cleaner added to the gas

[Giblet]

Summer came & I forgot my troubles

82 GS1100GK. Ok, here I go again. The carbs have been cleaned and I just replaced the needle & seat valves and the orings (fuel running out the bowl on #4 at idle). I've run several cans of Seafoam through it. I had a bad coil so both were replaced back in the summer. Plugs only have about 3k miles on them and were cleaned and gapped last week. Petcock was also replaced right after I got the bike about 18 months ago. Still hard to start when cold. If I put a little heater blowing across the carbs far 1-2 minutes it fires right up. Haven't figured out the proper amount of choke to use. I'm pretty sure it is getting gas as I can smell it. It doesn't seem to be getting fire. Wondering about the igniter but the heat makes me lean toward fuel delivery problem? Runs like a scalded cat once warmed up and gets about 34-37 mpg to and from work. All stock except for the K&N air filter. Idles somewhere between 1200 and 1500 RPM. Yesterday at work I used a heat shrink gun to blow warm air for about 30 seconds and it fired right up. Outside temp was about 40F. Cranked easily Monday AM after a couple of minutes with the heater when temp was 27F. Guess what I do before bed each night. Oh yeah, it just turned over 25K miles. Oh, almost forgot - carbs were synched since last spring.

[SqDancerLynn1]

On My 850 I put the fuel valve on prime for 2-3 seconds, apply full choke & do not touch the throtle Will fire right up even at low 60's
Never tried it in the 30's

[focus frenzy]

its lean!!!!!!
my bike was also very reluctant to star when the temp got down to 40 or below. adjusting the bleed air screw so the idle/low speed circuit was a bit richer made a huge difference.

[nert]

when you have one of these no start episodes. stop cranking, turn off the ignition and pull a plug or 2. See if they are wet (fuel) or bone dry. Besure cranking speed is good too. Are you using regular octane or high octane. the higher octane fuel should have a greater Reid Vapor Pressure which could make it more difficult to ignite, in which case you may want to try a lower octane fuel which tends to be a little more volitle. High octane fuel actually has a greater resistance to ignition.

[Anonymous]

nert - Isn't that trading one problem for another? Sure, low octane burns easier, which is convenient when you're cold, but an improper match when you're hot. My '82 GK definitely pre-detonated with 87 octane. It calls for 89, though I usually run 93 in it year-round and have no problems. I'm not saying your suggestion is wrong, but I'd be curious what you think about running below-spec octane fuel.

On the other hand, Giblet, I think nert's idea of checking your cranking speed is a good one. You'd be amazed what you can get away with on these bikes. I had a gradual charging problem, and I didn't even realize how slow it was cranking (and starting) the bike until one day late this summer when I borrowed a buddy's battery when it wouldn't start. It launched me on this terrible and expensive crusade to fix the charging system, but darn if that bike didn't start up on a touch with a good battery (from a Triumph, no less! Hmph!).

Try hooking up either (i) a 12v car battery, via jumper cables, and crank it like that, or (ii) a trickle charger for a few days, and crank it on a battery you know is fully charged. Either way you should see cranking with a quick and steady cadence and then ignition.

[nert]

I run 87 or 89 in my 82' 1100gl and have no detonation i can detect. However, trying a fuel tank full of 87 if he his using high octane might be more of a troubleshooting exercise than a solution. The colder ambient temps should also reduce cylinder temperature for the tank full of 87.
Pulling the plugs should be a tell all to get "started" in the right direction.

airboxseal.. :roll: ..nevermind, you had tobe there!

[Anonymous]

In all fairness, I am beginning to suspect I have some issues with compression that might have contributed to that 87 octane pre-det - I didn't think of that until after the post. Time for me to make a new thread!

[Giblet]

battery & fuel

Thought I had included all details. I run 87 octane all the time and don't have any predetonation that I can detect except when I forget to down shift at low speeds. I also keep a trickle charger on it at night when the temperature is down so I get good cranking speed. There is a little valve train noise when its hot but I'm sure that can be cured with a valve shim adjustment. I'll try pilling plugs tomorrow and see what I find.

[redliner1973]

Hard cold starts can be cause by the carb to head manifold "O" Rings. tehy usually act worse in the cold weather, and can cause that lean condition at mid-throttle you describe....I changed mine and it cured a very similar problem.