Trick to remove generator cover?

[Anonymous]

I seem to have a short in the generator.

So I am trying to get in there to inspect.

All the bolts are off, and the cover is essentially loose, but one area, near the bolt hole just above center on the front side will not budge. I can get a screwdriver in everywhere else and pry, but I don't wanna bend the thing. The hammer seems to make no difference.

what is the trick? there seems to be no other bolts involved. I even took some nearby bolts out of the block just incase the were involved, but that didn't help..

GS550LZ 82

Please please please share the secret wif me......

[Anonymous]

To make sure we are all on the same page....this IS the left crankcase cover

thank you for your support....

[chuckycheese]

magnet

I think it's being held on by the magnetic force (believe it or not!!) :roll:

[Anonymous]

Ah yes, the magnetic force. Be careful putting the cover back on, you can and will pinch a finger with the force of the magnet. Don't ask me how I know.

[Anonymous]

You jerkin my bobber?

The case is aluminum......

[Anonymous]

You jerkin my bobber?

The case is aluminum......

the magnetic force is between the stator and the rotor

[focus frenzy]

You jerkin my bobber?

The case is aluminum......

the magnetic force is between the stator and the rotor

the rotor witch is mounted on the end of the crankshaft, is a big magnet and the stator wich is mounted to the inside of the cover is steel wraped in copper.
so no ,we are not jerking your bobber.

[Anonymous]

OK, so the how DO I GET IT OFF????

when I pry the other side it doesn't seem to be attracted back.....

[Anonymous]

When I replaced mine 10 years ago, I ran into the same thing. As soon as the case is loose -- it pulls toward one edge and sticks solid. These magnets are pretty strong, so don't sit on it with plastic in your wallet You need to pull it off straight, or you'll cock the thing and bind it. Try prying with two flat bars, each in opposite corners, to apply equal force outwards. And don't forget this runs in oil, so the gasket may be sticking it a bit too -- the one that seals the left cover.

Cherrio, Roger Moore

[Don Lobacz]

There are some big hollow pins that keep the cover in the correct position, and it sounds like either yours have seized (aluminum to steel) or a previous removal boogered them up (and then reinstalled them with a hammer). You will probably have to pry it up on the outside of the tight spot, but try not to damage the sealing surface. Use a wide and not too sharp screwdriver or gasket scraper to distribute the force over a wide area. There is a sealing surface inside the pin area if you do happen to gouge the outer surface a little.

[moto_dan]

I use a couple of 1" wide putty knives if mechanically stuck to the pins, then a good grip, pulling straight out. Assembling can be the tricky part and as someone else mentioned....watch your fingers. You can make all your continuity/resistance checks with the stator assembled so have you done these?

[argonsagas]

Unless the pins/gear mounts inside are damaged, it should come STRAIGHT off. I wouldn't pry it at all except as a last resort as you can easily damage the surfaces.

Clean the cover so that there are no traces of oil or any soap/solvent residue, and dry it very thoroughly.

There is always a thin film of oil on your skin, and you want to be rid of it when you do this, so wash your hands so they are quite clean and completely dry.

Now, get a good, solid grip on the rounded part of the cover and pull....HARD...and pull straight away from the bike.

(The magnetic strength you were questioning is QUITE strong)

Unless someone has previously used gasket sealant or the internal parts are damaged, it should come off. If it moves at all, then you are doing it right, you just pulled at the wrong angle.

If you absolutely must pry it off, then use a number of wide-blade putty-knives (one inch is enough) and use TWO in each place. Put one blade in, then put the second to exactly match it. Do the same at several points around the case, then put a tapered object BETWEEN the blades to pry apart the surfaces. Here a flat blade screwdriver can be used, and you will be prying against the putty knife blades instead of the castings.

Once it moves a bit, it should pull off. Remember to have everything clean before you pull it.

It will almost certainly come off at this point, but if not, then insert pairs of wood blocks of increasing size in the gap you created, and spread them in the same manner as above.

Key : keep the pressure even around the casting to avoid twisting it, or jamming the internal parts. You will need to move it in small increments and pry at several points around the case, at the same time, to do this.
Use thin pieces of wood or plastic to maintain the space that is opened, and to keep the gap even all round the casting.