Carbs - rebuild or gasket?

[satchmo]

Alright, now this might be premature.

My bike has been sitting for a while now, probably about 6 months. (wow has it been that long? ) It's a 1977 GS550

The mileage was really poor prior to putting it away, but Earl helped me replace the coils and set the timing etc. and it runs. However I haven't been able to check my mileage problem because I haven't insured the bike in 6 months.

So here's my problem. It's been sitting for that long, with no treatment to the gas. I've noticed that a couple of the carb bowls -- from the outside-- have what looks like molasses on them, it's sticky, and brown and smells faintly like gasoline. This substance also looks like it's been dripping a bit on top of the gearbox. So areas are discoloured to a brown goo.

The petcock appears to be working. So here's my question. Do I shell out for some carb kits and rebuild the carberaters or do I just need knew gaskets on the float bowls?

I'm hoping to have it back on the road by the end of the month (that is if my paycheque in two weeks is what it should be )


Opinions?

Satch

[bgk]

Satch,

No easy answers here. But, a few questions that may leaed to some answers:

How was your bike running before you put it away?

How do the spark plug electrodes and insulators look?

Can you start the bike and run it now (without having to take it out on the road)?

You've got a month between now and the time when you can afford to get the bike on the road. Why not pull the carbs, bring 'em into the kitchen table, pull the bowls and have a look?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Re: Carbs - rebuild or gasket?

Alright, now this might be premature.

My bike has been sitting for a while now, probably about 6 months. (wow has it been that long? ) It's a 1977 GS550

The mileage was really poor prior to putting it away, but Earl helped me replace the coils and set the timing etc. and it runs. However I haven't been able to check my mileage problem because I haven't insured the bike in 6 months.

So here's my problem. It's been sitting for that long, with no treatment to the gas. I've noticed that a couple of the carb bowls -- from the outside-- have what looks like molasses on them, it's sticky, and brown and smells faintly like gasoline. This substance also looks like it's been dripping a bit on top of the gearbox. So areas are discoloured to a brown goo.

The petcock appears to be working. So here's my question. Do I shell out for some carb kits and rebuild the carberaters or do I just need knew gaskets on the float bowls?

I'm hoping to have it back on the road by the end of the month (that is if my paycheque in two weeks is what it should be )


Opinions?

Satch

Going by your past history with these carbs and because they have been sitting, I would completely clean them and inspect/re-build them. I know you've been running too rich for a long time. Cleaning the carbs may help this but I have to wonder about the float adjustment, the floats themselves, the condition of the float valves, and even if you have the correct pilot and main jets and stock needle setting. The brown sticky stuff on your bowls is just gas that's been leaking and evaporating. New gaskets should fix that but you need more than that.
If you plan to keep this bike, I think it's worth your time and money to do a thorough cleaning and possible re-build.
A few questions.
Do you have a good manual?
Is the motor stock?
Have you ever had the carbs apart?
Do you know for sure if ALL the jets are stock?
Have you ever adjusted the pilot or air screws and are the screw heads in good condition?
Is there ANY damage to the carbs or brackets or hardware that would make it difficult to take everything apart?
The reason I ask is because if there are no problems with damaged screws, etc, and the carbs are set up stock, I'll offer to clean and inspect/re-build what needs to be done, no charge. You buy your carb kits and the shipping to California. I have a lot of experience with the VM carbs and it's no big deal. I'll adjust the floats, manual sinc', clean, etc.
I would still suggest a vacuum sinc' when you get the carbs back on. The only potential problems would be if there's damage as described or the wrong jets, etc. Then there would be more research and parts for you to buy.
A typical complete carb re-build would require new float valve and seat assy', bowl and top cap gaskets, o-rings for the pilot and air screws, and o-ring that goes on the needle jet. I believe that covers it.
I/we can walk you through it too if you want to do the work yourself, but if you don't, let me know.

[satchmo]

Thanks for the offer on the rebuild, but I think I'll do the work myself, that way I'll learn.

The carbs were cleaner, not rebuilt, at a shop almost exactly two years ago. Although I don't really trust the shop anymore.

I think everything's stock. The motor appears to be stock, the mufflers are aftermarket - but the shop (same as above) said that they shouldn't require carb adjustments.

The head of the airscrew on carb number 1 is completely messed, as in it's been gouged so badly that you can't get a screwdriver to turn it. I don't know what it's set at.

There are no hoses on the bottom of the carbs.

Otherwise they should be relatively easy to take them apart, I did a crappy cleaning of them before I took it to the shop two years ago, and I didn't have any problems taking them apart, except for the airscrews. I also didn't really know what I was doing and put the choke on backwards -- that's why I took it to the shop.

As for manuals, I've got the suzuki shop manual, and a clymer manual.

I guess it's time to go shopping for carb kits. Are those one's on ebay any good?

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Satch

[SqDancerLynn1]

The ones on ebay are the same ones the shops will get you

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. The carb kits don't always have the same parts in them. The kits from parts'nmore are cheap and include the valve/seat assy', both gaskets and pilot screw o-ring. I get o-rings from the local carb shop if I need them. There are lots of kits out there. You may have to take your needle jet and air screw o-rings to a shop and match them up. The kits don't always include these. You may not actually need the valve/seat assy'. If you are not leaking fuel from your bowl overflow lines, that's a good sign. That's all up to you.
If your poor gas mileage is carb related, and it sounds like it is, the most common causes are a poor carb sinc', dirty/varnished carbs inside, incorrect float height, sticking or damaged floats, and worn float valves.
If you clean them up good and blow them out with compressed air, replace all the o-rings, adjust/replace the above mentioned parts and do a good vacuum sinc', I'll bet your carbs will work well. Let us know if you need help.

[satchmo]

Time to add another question

would these carb kits do? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2464176288

and B - how should I go about removing the airscrew which has a mushed up head??

Thanks guys.

Satch

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Sorry this is late. Yes, that kit would work. It may have more than you really need but too much is better than too little. Main/pilot jets/air screws don't go bad, jet needles can wear, but are usually good unless you have a LOT of miles. The most common parts that need replacing are the o-rings, gaskets, and float valve/seat.
If the side air screw is messed up, you may be better off just leaving it? It's hard to say, but it still may be set OK. Once the head is stripped, they are difficult to remove. Don't get too agressive with it or you'll ruin the carb body. You can try to find a tool to dig a new groove into the brass and remove with a straight screwdriver? You might try carefully drilling a hole in it about a 1/4" deep and then, using a little larger drill, set to reverse, push down fairly hard to try to get some bite and try it.
You might try "easy outs" but I've never done that.

[satchmo]

Thanks Keith, I've ordered the kits, and now will wait until they come in. I'm sure I'll have lots more questions. So I'll post them then.

Satch