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    Valves & Shims

    Hi! My GS1000L has what I'm guessing is a slightly leaky valve (exhaust pops a bit when I let up on the throttle, but there are no holes in the exhaust system). Next winter (can't afford it this spring/summer; besides, I want to use the bike!) I plan to have the valves and valve-seats reground. Will I need new shims even if the old ones are in decent shape, or will they need to be replaced? And if they do need replacing, how do I determine what size is needed?

    #2
    Re: Valves & Shims

    If you have the valves and valve-seats reground, you will have to re-shim to obtain the correct clearance. After you have re-assembled the valves/cams etc you will have to measure the clearances which you now have, and substitute shims to enable you to obtain correct clearance. You will probably need thinner shims, as the valve stem will be through further.
    There are other threads on here which will explain the procedure better than I can.

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      #3
      You might check with the machine shop? If they are fimaliar with GS bikes they may have some shims and be able to set them up for you. If the valves themselves are bad they should be replaced not reground

      Comment


        #4
        I just did an 8 valve GPz1100 head, and 5 of the 8 shims were still within range, needed 3 thinner ones. The local shop had tons of them and said I could poke through and grab what I needed, which was nice of them. They don't get much work on old dinosaurs any more.

        Comment


          #5
          83 GS1100ES

          I have found a GS1100ES for 1500 dollars.

          The engine is an 82 1100 with welded crank pins, 83 top end, 83 side and valve covers, 83 clutch and basket.

          The chain and sprockets are in good shape.
          The tires are also in good shape (Dunlop GT501's)
          It has a zinc plated supertrapp header
          It also has:
          Works performance shocks and springs
          Corbin gunfighter saddle (leather)
          Charging system was just redone
          GSXR front brake master cylinder and reservoir
          Steel braided brake lines
          Dyno jet jet kit with individual filter pods
          The inside of the tank has been rust proofed
          The bodywork is ready for a nice paint job. Painted it flat black currently.

          I was wondering if this is a good price since it is not stock, and was concerned about the valve adjustments every 3000-4000 miles. I don't have 350 dollars every 6 months. So, naturally, I was wondering if learning do do it my self is easy but better yet safe for the bike since I have never done this.

          Comment


            #6
            Re: 83 GS1100ES

            Originally posted by Odonabain
            I have found a GS1100ES for 1500 dollars.

            The engine is an 82 1100 with welded crank pins, 83 top end, 83 side and valve covers, 83 clutch and basket.

            The chain and sprockets are in good shape.
            The tires are also in good shape (Dunlop GT501's)
            It has a zinc plated supertrapp header
            It also has:
            Works performance shocks and springs
            Corbin gunfighter saddle (leather)
            Charging system was just redone
            GSXR front brake master cylinder and reservoir
            Steel braided brake lines
            Dyno jet jet kit with individual filter pods
            The inside of the tank has been rust proofed
            The bodywork is ready for a nice paint job. Painted it flat black currently.

            I was wondering if this is a good price since it is not stock, and was concerned about the valve adjustments every 3000-4000 miles. I don't have 350 dollars every 6 months. So, naturally, I was wondering if learning do do it my self is easy but better yet safe for the bike since I have never done this.
            Sounds like a pretty good price but I don't know what this has to do with the original thread since the GS1100 has screw/locknut adjusters and not shims.

            Comment


              #7
              After having done this last year I susgest the following.
              Buy the tool. It helps and makes life easier. you can get an aftermarket shim tool.
              Buy a .001" feeler gage. Most of the sets I found only went down to .0015" which is not thin enough.
              The Clymer book helps on this too.
              Keep the old shims as you may be able to re-cycle them. I ended up only buting 8 new ones.

              Comment


                #8
                I actually meant I only needed 4 new shims.
                Sorry for the confusion.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Robt,

                  Where did you find the 0.001" feeler gauge?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I ended up going to a local machine shop supply and ordered it in special. It only cost a few bucks. I found that you can do the shims with good set of gages and a .001". My set starts at .0015" and goes up in .0005" increaments to about .007" and then in .001" increaments. Suzuki sells a set at the dealers that start at around .0007" and goes up, but they are VERY expensive.

                    Comment

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