1985 GS700 carb problems

[Anonymous]

I recently purchased a 1985 GS700ES that had been parked for 6 years. After some work it is finally running, but poorly. Turns out that whoever owned it before had a great deal of carb work done, but it was done incorrectly. I have not dug into them to see exactly what the deal is, but someone who knew the bikes history told me that the owner chose a poor mechanic to install a stage 2 jet kit and do some other unknown modifications. It has an aftermarket exhaust and pod filters. As it stands now the bike will start, but it will kill if I give it any throttle and the carbs are very out of synch. To make a long story short, I have been advised before to just find some stock carbs and air box and start over. From what info I have (I can give more if needed), would you folks recommend starting over with new carbs/air or try to have the old ones salvaged? I will have more details if needed this weekend after I have a look at everything, though fuel systems are not my strong point.

[10yeareer]

I just bought a set for my 650 off ebay for $61. They appeared to be in good shape and they were advertised as coming off a running bike. However, it wouldn't surprise me if I had to rebuild them. The reason I bought new carbs was that I trashed one of mine trying to remove a stuck pilot jet.

If your carbs are clean, the floats set and you really just need want the stock jets, I think the jets to would cost about $25-$30.

Bu

[Anonymous]

Is it possible that these carbs have had too much work done (or attempted) that they will be unsalvagable? I have talked to one mechanic who believes he can rebuild them, and the cost of replacing them with stock and rebuilding the current ones will be about the same. I would like to salvage as much of this attempt at high performance as I can, but this time done right.

[10yeareer]

Too much work will not make the carb unsalvageable. Damaging the carb body will make it unsalvageable.

[Anonymous]

air box

I have a stock airbox with aftermarket reusable foam filter if you are interested. just email me: trevorreilly@yahoo.com. As for the carbs, you will prob just have to change the jets. there was a set by K&N on ebay a couple days ago going for $14.99.

Trevor

[Anonymous]

If all the mechanic did was to change the jets you could get it back to stock with rebuild kits. If the mechanic used a drill to modify the passages you could not get it back to stock even with carb rebuild kits and I don't think you could tell just by looking at the carbs.

[Anonymous]

The drilling is what I'm afraid of. I'm not terribly concerned with getting back to stock, just getting it running right. I can't stand listening to this thing idle and not being able to drive it, especially when the weather is so nice. As long as it gets back on the road, I'm satisfied!

[dig dug mx6]

The way it dies when you give it full throttle sounds like that same thing that happeneds to mine when I have the cover off the air box.

Is sounds like whoever had it last never finished the install of the pods and never balanced the carbs after doing the pod install.


I have jet kit for mine and need to just get the pods and I plan on doing the stage 3 on mine someday.

[Carter Turk]

GS 700 carb problems

Was the biike sitting for 6 years with gas in the carbs/tank? If so drain fuel from tank and carbs. When you get it to idle are you using the choke to get it started or does it start/idle with no choke?

If the bike starts with no choke when cold its probably too rich. Pull the spark plugs and have a look at the color.

If gas was in the bike for 6 years, the pilot jets are likely clogged. Tank venting may be clogged as well.

One thing that is nice about pods is the carbs are much easier to fiddle/ take off/on.

Stock carb settings with the pipe will render a lean condition somewhere in the rev range.

I'd say find a stock set of carbs if the cost is the same as you say to rebuild the existing ones and swap the adjustable needles in the stage 2 kit to accommodate the pipe and find out what main jet and float level is adequate for the pipe. 2 1/2 turns out on the air/fuel mixture screws as a starting point.

The slides may be stuck. My wife's 1150 sat for 3 months in the Northwest in a covered unheated garage and all four slides were stuck with fuel sludge. You could pull off the pods and push the slide up with a finger to see if it returns or moves at all. Carter