Just Rebuilt carbs 79GS1000L

[Anonymous]

I just rebuilt all the carbs. Adjusted float levels and all that is reccomended on a bike that has sat many years. Performance improved 1000%. I know I need to sync the carbs. Can this be the cause of the bike still running a little rich? I also have a K&N air filter on the way and know that this should help a little with the rich running.

Sidebar question....
Is it cheaper to take the bike to a mechanic to tune the carbs or to just buy the Manometer? The bike was free and so far I have only put about $175 into it. Is this something I will use alot or just sit in the garage?

Thanks

[Hoomgar]

Good question. I will wait with you to see what others say on that. I am wondering the same thing and think that it is high time I learn how to do this myself as well.

[wrench]

Check this post by Harry (jojo)

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=11293

John.

[Anonymous]

I have read that post before and if I by the tool it will be the carbtune. My questions still remain for the $100 how often will I need to use this and is it cheaper to have a shop do it and will it help solve the rich running?

[Anonymous]

I'm thinking the same thing. How about this one only $39

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=3704&catalogId=10111&langId=-1&storeId=10101

[whodatpat]

Buy the $40 one. When the cost of the tools and suplies is less than half the cost of someone servicing it for you. Buy the tool and do it yourself. You will learn a little somthing more about how your bike works and you will possibly save yourself from someone elces shady handy work. (Not a slam on mechanics, but who loves your bike more than you.) I asked about those two carburator synchronizers at my local bike shop. I asked what the diference was. They said about 25 dollars. For the amount of time that I will use them. Which may be each spring during a major tune up for the season.
Patrick

[Anonymous]

Alright, I will probably order one of the $39 one and see how it works. I am hoping that syncing the carbs and replacing the air filter will solve my running rich problem. Thanks again for all the input...

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm thinking the same thing. How about this one only $39
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...&storeId=10101

I use a Motion Pro. Works very well.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Typical shop labor is about $55-65/hr. Learning to sinc' is'nt hard. You will do just as good a job, if not better. The VM carbs should hold their sinc' under normal conditions a long time. How long depends on how often you ride. To sinc' these carbs, in addition to the tool, you only need a few feet of extension lines for your vacuum and fuel lines if you set your tank on a workmate type bench. You need a box wrench and a screwdriver to adjust the throttle valves and a fan or two to help keep the motor from getting too hot. You should also have a good manual, preferably the factory manual. We can all help you if you ask. You will have a much easier time of it if you do a good manual sinc' first.
The carbs can run rich if not balanced/in sinc'. Usually, not all 4 run rich due to a poor sinc'. 1 or 2 may be drawing more vacuum and running richer than the other two. There are several reasons your carbs can run rich. You say the carbs are rebuilt and clean inside and the floats adjusted.
Did you blow out all the carbs passages with compressed air?
Are you sure the stock main/pilot jets are in them?
Did you take the jet-needle assembly apart?
Did you make ANY adjustments to the pilot screws underneath, or the side air screws?
Did you need to replace the o-ring that goes on each bleeder pipe/needle-jet?
Did you replace the float valve needles and seats?
What color are all the plugs right now? Before a carb sinc' and for good combustion (richness problems) your ignition must be timed correctly and the valve clearances good and cylinder compression good.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the info...My air filter should arrive Monday and I ordered the Motion Pro Carb sync. This has been a great learning experience.
When I rebulit the carbs I replaced the air screws, float needle seat, needle and o-ring...the pilot jets were the wrong size for my bike so they are what was on the bike. There is another adjustment screw on my bike that in the manual said DO NOT touch....I di d not but I do not know if they have been messed with before. The book really says nothing about the air screw adjustment or pilot jet adjustment...just gives float levels.

Thanks for all the input and hoefully it will be running like new after I do these last few things!!

Also I have 4 pilot jets for 78-79 1000C I think if anybody needs just pay me the postage.

[Detman101]

I've been considering this same point! I will get the carbs running enough to get a good idle. After that I'm riding it to the shop and letting them balance the carbs. Prolly cost me 150 around here. I'm not dicking around with balancing the carbs if it I don't get it by the 5th try.

:?
Dm of mD