Jeus christ...someone help me understand this.

[Detman101]

I'm 2 seconds away from losing it.

Okay....I put the bike together...got a battery for it...turned on the fuel...ignition...run switch....Choke at full...hit the start button.

BAM!!!

IT RUNS!!! And at just a touch of the start button. Wait a second...is it supposed to idle at 5k rpm??

I turn the idle knob all the way out until it no longer hits the throttle assembly and also push in the choke to turn it off...idle doesn't come down...ooooookay...hit the off switch.

After that I let the bike sit a while and made sure the vacuum lines
in-between carbs 1-2 and 3-4 were plugged...they were.

Start the bike up again and it idles at 2500. Can't get it to idle any lower than that. I touch the choke knob and lift it a smidgen and it rockets back up to 5k Rpm again.
I push the choke knob in again and it still idles high at 5k.
Then I smell gas...Gas is leaking out of the pod filters for cylinders 3&4 (sitting on the bike the two nearest your right leg).
I shut it down and contemplate my walk with christ because all hell is about to break loose starting with me.
I walk away from the bike and start to think...


I'm thinking that the reason the fuel is leaking out of the pods is that the fuel level is too high in those carbs...meaning float level...right?
Could it have something to do with the float needle not shutting off the fuel flow?

Does anyone have a clue how to remedy this problem?


Dm of mD

[Detman101]

Hmmm....perhaps this is the point where I take it to the shop and throw a paycheck at them.

Damnit...Maybe I can ride it this way. I'll never have to touch the throttle I guess...


Dm of mD

[Detman101]

Okay, I'm using this post here to tabulate possible culprits for this problem.

1.) Intake boot leak (Old O-rings) Replace with RAD hose and new O-Rings.

2.) Float level off in carbs Take apart again and re-set float levels.

3.) Gummed up slides Take apart carbs and lube up slides.

4.) Throttle cbl too tight Took it off and rechecked tightness. Readjustment needed at carb.

Argh...sun going down. Until tomorrow....

5.) pilot screw too far out (5 turns as per dynojet)
Reseat lightly and start at 1.25 turns out on each carb. Adjust from there

6.) Vacuum nipples plugged: Removed vacuum nipple plugs after figuring out that the shop I spoke to just wanted my money. I can only trust the sage advice here.

7.) remove adj washers from jet needle [color=blue] This should make lean condition in 3-5k rpm range go away. Mistake made in reading manual for jet-kit.

8.)

9.)

10.)

[SqDancerLynn1]

If the carb is overflowing, shouldn't be hard to fix check:

1 Needle and seat not sealing
2 Float level set to high/ bad float
3 O ring on the float valve is leaking

[Detman101]

Thank you for the help.
Right now just hearing a word from someone else instills me with a renewed sense of confidence. Nothing feels worse than being in a situation and having no one to talk or turn to.
Again...Thank you, you don't know how important your reply was or how much it means to me.

I believe that I will take the carbs off of the bike tomorrow and start again with all new o-rings and boots. Maybe by next weekend I can have it running.

Would you happen to have any suggestions on where I can get an o-ring set for these carbs?

Thank you so much,
*bow*
Dm of mD

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you have a NAPA auto parts or something like that they should have a selection of O rings, try matching them

Other options

Carb O rings You can get a set for all 4 carbs $12 from Robert at http://www.cycleorings.com/

Intake boot O rings are seperate/ get them from dealer
Intake boots?? check some of the online suppliers they are quite expensive $20-25 each
Some of the other members may have a sugestion where to get them cheaper

[Anonymous]

As I recall you recently painted your tank. Possible that dirt, rust has gotten into your nice clean carbs and is causing a needle or two to hang up. Thus the gas leak. To have that high rpm you need two things, lots of gas and lots of air. I believe we know there is too much gas! Now, why too much air. Slides hanging up? Air leaks? You can check for air leaks with a spray can of carb cleaner, spray around boots and any other connections while it is running and see if the speed changes. Good luck and I'll keep thinking.

[Anonymous]

floats leaking

Are your floats leaking?? If the gas is getting in the floats and they sink this could be part of you problem..

[first timer]

your vacume nipples are NOT suppost to be plugged. as per the instrutions on my dyna stg 3 for my 550 with cv type carbs you need to remove the hose that connects to the vacume nipples and just let the nipple hang free..... and breathing.



put your mixture screw back at 5 turns like the instrutions say, the mixture screw doesn't effect engine speed. remove your pods (you can run the bike without them since you went stg 3)
loosen you idleler screw all the way so the butterfly valves are shut, see if you can twist them open with your hand and see if they are smooth and not jumpy. also make sure that each butterfly valve (the guy between the slide and the engine) are all open about the same. as per the factory manueal ... it sez set each throttle valve (butter fly valve) in such a way that it's top end meets the foremost bypass (the little hole that is under your mixture screw). this is accomplished by turning the throttle valve stop screw and balance screw. basicly get all 4 butter fly valves all lined up the same as to the little hole under the fuel mixture. maybe one or two of the butter fly valves are open to much making the bike think it you are giving it gas.


bike off... put your needle at the base setting as instructions say. pull your choke all the way open then close it and watch the choke circute on each carb and make sure they are closeing, maybe you never tightend one of the little screws that locks it's self to the bar.

those don't work open the carbs up pull the float and check the needle and the pull the tube the needle that sits inside and make sure those little filters are not clogged with dirt.

i'll keep an eye out for you we will get you through this.

ryan

[Detman101]

THank you for the instructions Ryan. I'm so close now I can taste it.
I am going to head home early at lunch today and take your instructions with me. Thank you so much for the guidance.
You could be completely right on the carbs getting crud in them. I looked in the tank this morning to see rust again!!! That sucks the big one. I'll pick up a filter while I'm out and put a new one inline. I'll probably have to take the carbs down and clean them again...

SqdncrLynn...I can't seem to get a connection to that website.
http://www.cycleorings.com/ doesn't work for some reason. Can anyone else access it?

Dm of mD

[Anonymous]

Hmmm... sounds familiar

hey Detman,

I have the same problem. I'm constantly adjusting the idle screw while I'm driving around. I'm curious to see what you find out. I also have an overflowing carb, my #3. I'll wake up sometimes and the whole house smells like gas so I go to the garage and thank god I'm not walking into a wall of flame as I open the garage door and mop up the pool of gasoline staining my floor! I see it dripping out of the pod filter. So I'm wondering if a stuck float valve is related to this fluctuating idle thing. I'll work on my carb and see how it goes and let you know.

Hasta

[Detman101]

Heya Slider.

I had that carb problem too. My solution was found when I cleaned the carbs (Again,...*Sigh*) and found rust from the tank in the float valve needle seat. I guess it was causing the float needle not to shut off the flow of gas.

Do you have a stage-3 kit on your bike too?

I got mine running okay but I made the carbs too lean in midrange by not taking out the adjusting washers that came with the kit. For some reason I didn't read the manual carefully enough 2 times and STILL kept the adjusting washers under the main washer when the manual says clearly "Adjusting washers...used to clear up minute lean/rich conditions"
:roll: I'm a dunce sometimes....luckily i went back and read the manual again.

Once I remove those adj washers this weekend I should be spot on with my jetting. Then all I need is to get the carbs balanced and replace the rear tire and I'm done!!! I can finally ride this bike and see what it's got!

Another 200 dollars to go and I'm road ready!

:P
Dm of mD

[Detman101]

Re: Hmmm... sounds familiar

hey Detman,

I have the same problem. I'm constantly adjusting the idle screw while I'm driving around. I'm curious to see what you find out. I also have an overflowing carb, my #3. I'll wake up sometimes and the whole house smells like gas so I go to the garage and thank god I'm not walking into a wall of flame as I open the garage door and mop up the pool of gasoline staining my floor! I see it dripping out of the pod filter. So I'm wondering if a stuck float valve is related to this fluctuating idle thing. I'll work on my carb and see how it goes and let you know.

Hasta

Slider,

Also please be careful that the gas hasn't entered into your crankcase.
It can cause your oil to get contaminated and imagine how bad that can be!! Also it runs the risk of getting into the cylinders and filling them up. When you go to start the bike the pistons snap cause liquid doesn't compress. It will ruin your engine.

It sounds like your petcock is leaking. What I did was get an inline shut-off valve from the motorcycle shop near me. If it is too small for the fuel line like mine was you can put a small bit of "clear fuel hose" on the ends of the valve and then insert it into your fuel-line inbetween the carbs and the tank. This is working great for me and the only worry I have is that it may not carry enough fuel to the carbs at highway speed but I will see.

Dm of mD

[Anonymous]

Check petcock vac. diaphram

Pull your tank petcocke apart and hold the diaphram up to a bright light. If it has any creases or a pin hole, you are getting fuel directly into the vacuum area of the carb manifold. This will go directly into the motor and supply extra fuel. Also, check your oil level. This malfunction will slowly dump fuel down the cylinders into crankcase.

[Anonymous]

I went over to Detman's house this morning and we pulled his petcock apart. It was missing the return spring for the diaphrgm and we picked up an acceptable substitute from the hardware store. Also his plugs were gapped way too big, and he has a Stage 3 jet kit installed on his carbs, Emgo pods, but a stock exhaust. I mentioned that he probably needs to put everything back to stock or get a V&H 4-into-1. He's a really nice guy, by the way.
Anyhow, we managed to get his bike running better, but he still has tuning issues.

Harrison