33mm smoothbores

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I've thought about getting some 29's for my bike, but I've been told at Sudco and Mikuni Corp. (both nearby) that GOOD parts are getting hard to find, and E-bay is risky. For a guy like me that hopes to have this bike running nice until I can't ride anymore, the parts availability thing just scares me off. My bike runs so well the way it is, I think I should leave well enough alone.

[Hoomgar]

Absolutely Keith. Why fix what isn't broken?

[Anonymous]

in 1980 we took a 78 1000 and highly modified it to see what kind of power we could get out of it and still be streetable. Well we ported and polished the intake tract and tried the 33's. We tried all sorts of combinations of jetting and slides(cut aways) and were unable to get the results we wanted. We contacted minkuni and they said (GOOD LUCK) as that combination was not very workable. We learned not to port AND polish the intake as this slows the mixing of fuel/air. we tried velocity stacks and tunnel air and found the best combination was the stock air box with a bunch of holes drilled in it. We did get the 33's to run good on wfo and anything above 3/4 throttle but under 3/4 it would stumble and shake and then would sputter like it was running rich. So then we tried the 29's and found with a little work we could get them dialed in pretty close for all throttle positions. But under wfo they wouldn't give us the same arm wrentching power as the 33's Well after all was said and done 1981 came and we said the heck with it and bought a couple of 1100 to abuse instead. :P They handled the additional power so much better.

[Anonymous]

33mm smoothbores

so - i guess a 80'gs1000 wes cooley has the big port head.?
I still have one set of 29's left- beginning to think i should hang on to them.

79 gs1000e with pipe and 29's
78 gs 1000 with pipe. including tons of spares.

thanks for info guys.

[first timer]

i would love to collect as much info on these 29 smoothies, i have a set and i don't have any litature to go with them, like a good main jet size, needle height, float hieght...... you know all the good info, i am currently in the process of cleaning and dip them so this would be the best time to get everything set up with them. basiclly i would like to know what each adjustable peice on the carb affects, like needles effect mid range, mids top end, but what about the things like #87 what does this do when you change the size of it from 1.5 to like 2.0?



and how important is #88 the paper gasket, can i get away with not useing it or do i need to order/facricate one? how about what parts if any are swapable from the oem vm26's one of my needles on the 29mm is a little scuffed and would like to use one from a set of 26mm.

another question is could you guys scan some of those articles about the tweaked 78/79 1000's for me. you can pm me and i can give you a email address. i really need to call upon you older guys to help me get this thing set up, since these carbs and bike are as old as me and they are now discontiuned. nobady my age has a clue how to tune these, on a side note i have a very good understanding of how the cv style carbs work and i can tunes those things pretty damn good.


ryan

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm not real familiar with these carbs, but #87 and your "1.5" question, must be regarding the throttle valve cut-away. The 29's for Suzuki and Kawasaki come with 1.5 cut-aways. These carbs won't work for Honda's, etc. You would not need or want to change this.
I can't tell you how critical the paper gasket is, but I figure Mikuni would'nt use it if it was'nt needed.
Check the number stamped on the jet-needles for the 26's and 29's. If they do match, fine. If not, I would'nt use them.

[Anonymous]

Hey sherwoodgman;
The only way someone should get those 29's away from you would be the proverbial"pry them from your cold dead fingers". They are becoming harder to find and if i remember right i don't think they even make the 33's anymore. The vm series are actually a better flowing device per mm than a cv. The cv's passed the emissions at the time better so the vm's started to dissapear as they were harder to bring in to compliance(epa). The rule of thumb was 2 to 4 mm difference,that is 29 smooths were equal to 32 to 34 cv's as far as flow maximum. 33's we were able to get flow better than 38 and even some 42's of the day. Now this is talking about ancient history when i used to tune seriously. I don't know about todays stuff as i'm an old guy and haven't messed with it in years.

Hey first timer;
Its hard to tell in that picture but that looks suspiciously like a kawi spacer plate. But anyways the 29's came stock with 1.5 cut aways and you could go up to 2.5 if you wanted(but very seldom needed). The cutaways are needed for the air/fuel mixture for the small throttle openings(about idle to 1/2open) The more cutaway the less intake air flow resistance causing a lean mixture. The only time you really ever change this is when the low speed system isn't running good but the main system is. And yes you need the paper/fiber gasket as this keeps the fuel/air from leaking past.

[first timer]

overboard,

can i make a new gasket out of plain white, maybe even acid free paper? some thing that basicly matched the orginal thinkness.

ryan

[Anonymous]

yep' you can just make it out of anything that won't fall apart if gas should get on it(which it will) they use to have a thin fiber material that we used for the gasket it held up pretty well. Just don't get to thick or it won't seat properly.

[Hoomgar]

You can buy gasket material sheets for all areas of a motor from any good auto parts store. I made my own gaskets for about 20 years now and never had an issue.