Yikes, awful fuel economy.

[first timer]

if the problems go away when you remove the filters then the filters you have are crap, you will have to get some k and n filters, that is what i HAD to do.

-ryan

[Detman101]

The bike started up.
I readjusted the mix screws to 4 turns out and cleaned/regapped the plugs.
Bike idles fine without cutting off.
Rode it 2 blocks and plugs fouled out.
So...3.5 on the needle is too lean and 4 is too rich. What to do...what to do...

At this point I *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ing give up. I'm reallocating a paycheck to have the dynojet shop I bought this thing from set the carbs. I *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$in give up...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=19816&sid=e26f3a4fd40a814baaab19428b4b886a

Dm

[argonsagas]

The bike started up.
I readjusted the mix screws to 4 turns out and cleaned/regapped the plugs.
Bike idles fine without cutting off.
Rode it 2 blocks and plugs fouled out.
So...3.5 on the needle is too lean and 4 is too rich. What to do...what to do...

At this point I ####ing give up. I'm reallocating a paycheck to have the dynojet shop I bought this thing from set the carbs. I ####in give up...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=19816&sid=e26f3a4fd40a814baaab19428b4b886a

Dm

3.5 is NOT too lean, but 4 IS too rich. So is 3.5.

If your spark is good, and I did not see this demonstrated, you are getting fouled, black, plugs, then there is no doubt that you are running too rich.

Check your spark and be sure you are getting a strong, crisp, spark.
If not, you need to look at the coils, and their output, as well as the wires

Coil output/spark OK?

Turn the carb mixture/air screws down to two on each carb and stop playing with that setting.

Pull the carbs off the bike and do a static setting. Forget about the drill bit.

Back off the idle screw completely. Back it off until there is a visible space to confirm no contact.

Now look at your butterflies.

All should close at EXACTLY the same time. All should open at EXACTLY the same time. If they do not all match EXACTLY, then loosenoff the adjustments between carbs and re-set them until they do. If they do not balance readly, expect to find more play in carb number four (the one on the extreme right) Loosen off everything until you get number 4 to work properly. Set it up correctly, and the others will follow.

What you now want is to see that everything closes exactly together. If you got number four to match number 3, you are well on your way.

Do your adjustments until everything is in synch.

NOW, and only now, adjust the main idle screw. All carb butterflies should be seen to move at the same time, and the carbs should be open exactly the same amount.

You have a static carb setting.


Now check your float settings. Check that the floats close the valves COMPLETELY when raised. If there is even a trace of leakage, the o-ring is immediately suspect, but it might just be dirt.

Blow them out with a spray carb cleaner. Rassemble and try again. Still a problem? You need to replace the o-rings, and maybe the needle.

Adjust the floats or replace the 0-rings as necessary.

If the boots are suspect, put a thin coating of silicone around them. Be sure the boots are very clean, then put a bit of silicone on your finger and cover the boot very lightly. Let it dry completely before putting the boots back on the bike.

[Hoomgar]

Yeah Detman look at what Ron just said, don't throw in the towel yet bro.

Also as another route, look at my post in your other thread that you gave the link to above. All hope is not lost man and I assure you one thing if nothing else. You DO NOT have to pay 400 dollars to get that bike running correctly.

[Detman101]

I printed out the last set of instructions that Argonsagas left. I will try them this afternoon when I return from my gf's house.
Thank you again. I am trying to keep the cost of getting this bike on the road less than what I paid for it ($500.00).

I'll give it a try and post results/failures.

Thank you again,
Damien
Dm of mD

[Anonymous]

Hey Detman I just experianced same problem as you with my bike and it turned out to be a bad petcock vacuum gimmick. If that goes it tends to throw air into the mix with the gas making a lean condition screwing up the gas mileage, not to mention when my bike was running the hose would leak fuel witch didn't do as it should and be a nice easy drip for me to find, no it had to flow along the outside of the hose and dump itself between the carbs where I could not find it. Of course this would only flow when I was riding from vibration and not when it was sitting there. Thank god it eventually ate away the corrosion treatment on the crankcase , I mean who wants a nice clean looking one of those anyway.
What can I say she was a naughty girl that gave me the same indicators as you have stated. Also a previous post is correct as for the way the fuel guage works, mine will get to 1/2 a tank real quick and then it could be another few mils past the E to be truly empty.

[Detman101]

Ah okay, I had a feeling that fuel gauge was a bit odd.
Thanks for the verification...I'll ignore it and go off of the miles I've ridden until I get to know the bike better.


Dm of mD