GS450E slipping or dragging. (problem still not solved)

[Anonymous]

Hello,

I have a Suzuki GS450e (1987) which i am having problems with. I find it very hard to change gear with the engine running but is no problem when stopped. When the engine is running i cant select neutral once i get in gear.

I have tryed to adjust the clutch at the bars, cable and adjustment screw in the crankcover but i can never get a happy medium between clutch drag and slip.

It has a new cable, lever and plates.

I spoke to a mechanic who said to check the number of plates which i found strange but did it any way. It has 7 friction and 6 steel but the haynes manual says it should have 7 friction and 7 steel. I contacted 2 local suzuki dealers who said the haynes manual is wrong and it does have the right amount.
Only the friction plates were replaced by the previous owner. The plates seem in good order and are not warped. . I dont know what type of oil was in the machine but when i took th cover off the oil seemed new and clean with no metal filings etc. i still dont understand why i can change gear with the engine off but not on.
The problem is definatly not the cable routing or snagging.

The bike idel is not too high either.

There is a noticeable degree of wear on the clutch adjusting mechinism inside the engine cover but this should be taken up by the cable, i think, although im not sure. When the clutch is applied the turning motion of this mechinism doesnt seem to move outwards a great deal.

Please can you give me some advise because i am begining to get frustrated.

I posted this before but not problem was found. Is there anything else that could be the problem.

Thank you very much.

[Hoomgar]

Your clutch plate disk ratio is right. The Haynes manual is wrong. No surprise there. I think from what I am hearing you say that your problem may not be your clutch at all. It sounds to me like you have a more serious problem internally like a bent shifting fork or something of that nature.

You should be able to shift gears easily once moving even without using the clutch when you rev correctly. I often shift without using the clutch when I am rolling. That includes poping it into neutral.

[nabrams]

You said:
"There is a noticeable degree of wear on the clutch adjusting mechinism inside the engine cover but this should be taken up by the cable, i think, although im not sure. When the clutch is applied the turning motion of this mechinism doesnt seem to move outwards a great deal."

This IS your problem. I had the same problem on a Honda I had years ago. That "turning motion" you mention is absolutely critical. If that actuator does not push the clutch push-rod enough then the plates will only partially disengage. When the bike is off the clutch makes no difference - you can even shift without clutching because nothing is moving. That actuator must be firmly seated against the clutch push-rod. If it is not, then even full rotation will not properly push the clutch push-rod. On the Honda I metioned, I had to replace the case that housed that actuator because it was so worn out on the inside. As a test, try filling up that worn out area with JB weld (with the actuator out of course). Then drill out a hole that will be just big enough for the actuator and will cause the actuator to be firmly against the push-rod. Then test it. If it works you'll need to get a new case, becuase that JB weld won't stay for long.

[Anonymous]

You could probably have a new pushrod made up too, but with ebay around it may just be cheaper to get the case.

I hope this isn't your problem. As the manual states, with the clutch cable loose up top, you turn the bolt under the side cover until it gets tight and back off a little. Then you tighten things up top but leave enough slack so that there isn't any tension on the cable with your hand off the lever. It should be possible for lever to jiggle around a bit.

Steve