Dead Cyclinder

[Anonymous]

Ok, I have a 82' GS450L.

it's got 2 cylinders.. and as I was driving around last year,

the fuse kept blowing, and as it blew, it took several head lights and

tail lights with it. (yes, it happened more than once). the last time it

happened, somehow I think it blew something important, because

the left sparkplug stopped firing. So I thought it was the coil,

I rode around with only one cyclinder, (is this dangerous btw? only like 5 blocks everyday)

I finally got the coil, replaced it.... but still nothing!

I even installed fresh spark-plugs, but the left sparkplug won't fire.

Is this a major old-wire problem? or am I wayyyy off?

(oh, and how do I check for short-circuits?)

[Anonymous]

I bet your Ignitor and regulator/rectifier are dead. I blew my Ignitor the same way. I was riding at night and my headlight exploded! Then as I shifted down in the gears each and every gear light burned out once at a time. Get your bike running and rev it up to about 5 grand, you'll probably see that you're putting out 18 volts instead of 14.2 or so.

Come to think of it, my hardware burned out because my positive battery cable broke off. With the cable broken everything tries to reverse charge and any circuit that's being used turns into a ground so to speak. You may want to look into getting a running parts bike for a hundred bucks or so to replace those two parts of yours.

Steve

[Anonymous]

hmm.. that's strange... so you're saying the bike will still start,

even though the reg/rectifier and the ignitor is busted?

(sorry this is my first vehicle, and I dunno anything about fixing it)

[Anonymous]

Here's a page out of the manual, it's 300k.



The manual was never much help to me since it's not for my bike but it may help you. Don't worry too much if signal generator resistance is more like 300 ohms instead of 60 or whatever.

The only problem I see is that if you find that the igniter is dead and you replace it you risk burning it out again if you don't fix whatever killed it in the first place. I can't think of a way to safely test your regulator/rectifier which is a problem. I don't want to say that you should toss it just in case it's bad but igniters are expensive and hard to come by. You can get a Dyna S ignition for less than a new OEM unit or you could get one off ebay and risk getting another bad one.

Anyway, you've got a chicken and the egg problem...

Also, this manual is for sale in the For Sale section. There's a bit of water damage but it doesn't take away from the info that's in the book.

Steve

[argonsagas]

hmm.. that's strange... so you're saying the bike will still start,

even though the reg/rectifier and the ignitor is busted?

(sorry this is my first vehicle, and I dunno anything about fixing it)

The bike will start without the Regulator/Rectifier connected, and it will then run on the battery.

It will not start or run without the ignitor.

If you use the SEARCH feature on this site, you will come up with a LOT of comments and ideas about the R/Rs, including how to test them statically.

If your bike will run, all you do is use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage before starting it, verify that the R/R is properly connected, and then check voltage at the battery again when it is running.

At a high idle, (above 2000 RPM,) you should have an engine-running voltage of above 13 volts, but not more than 14.5 volts.

If you have less than 13 volts, you need to check the stator output as well. If you have higher than 14.5 volts, your stator is working, but you must look at Steve's comment about burning everything out, including the battery, and you replace the R/R.