550 carb rebuild questions

[Anonymous]

I'm with Keith: metal hammer. I use my 16oz claw hammer most of the time.

[debby]

Not having much luck finding orings at the hw store. All they have are non-fuel-resistant ones that are the wrong size

Does the keyster kit include orings for the fuel screw? Those aren't available from suzuki and mine are shot. I don't need the brass but would be worth buying the kits just to get a *full* set of orings.

debby

[Hoomgar]

I hope you can find a kit with what you need debby. Sorry about the hw store advice not panning out for you. Ours is truly an extraordinary old hw store here in Manheim and is large! They have them here because they do small motor repair. Chainsaws, weedtrimmers, lawn tractors etc... That's another place to try, lawn mower shops that do repair.

Another place you may have luck is a motorcycle shop. Take your old rings into them and see if they have some they could sell you. Or even a garage. I know the auto garage I use has loads of odds and ends parts for all kinds of stuff from over the years. They may have some that will match.

Seems a shame to have to hunt so hard for such a small rubber part huh? I am sure you will find some though, just hope they don't over charge for them. never let onto how long or hard you have been looking when you ask he he he

[Anonymous]

I am working on a kit for the VM's as we speak (or type...) but I'd doubt if the kit will be ready on time for your particular needs. There aren't ANY from the CV kit that will match the VM's. You can see, though, why I invested the effort the first time around, for the CV style carbs.

It's a shame to have an otherwise functional bike tied up waiting for a quarter gram of rubber -- particularly for folks in the northern states with limited riding seasons.

It's possible you'll find an auto parts outfit that can match the fuel tube O-rings. I've found three very small O-rings in the VM's, though, and the odds of finding those off-the-shelf are pretty slim. With the tiny ones, it's not difficult to find an I.D. that matches just fine; however, the cross section winds up being much too large (too fat) for the application. (Using the aviation 'dash' standard sizes, which is what almost all outfits in the US will carry). It'll almost certainly wind up being an oddball metric size.

The folks at motorcyclecarbs have a blowup of the VM 29's -- and their blowup is oddly missing a necessary O-ring. You could try them, though. An email is worth a shot.

Meanwhile, I'll update the group when I have any progress to report on the new kit. I might get lucky and find in-stock sizes, but I wouldn't bet on it.

So -- I don't have any great news at present, but the best thing about a forum like this is that there are many sources of information and many different backgrounds to pose questions to, with mine being just one of them.

[debby]

I emailed the keyster carb people and that oring is not included in their kit. Robert, you got it exactly right when you said the orings available locally would all be too fat. That is indeed what I'm finding. I suppose I'll get the other orings from ron ayers or maybe the local dealer, reuse the old fuel screw orings, and just let them drip. Don't see what else I can do

Debby

[KEITH KRAUSE]

debby, I believe partsn'more sells (or did as of last summer) their version of a carb rebuild kit that includes the pilot screw o-rings. The rest of their kit includes the floatvalve/seat assy', bowl gasket, and top gasket. Everyone seems to have their own ideas of what should be in a carb rebuild kit. Each kit was something like $12. I did'nt read to see if you already bought some kits.
If you have a Vance & Hines or auto carb shop nearby, they may be able to help. If you are forced into using the old o-rings, teflon tape can help stop the leaking. Cut the tape to a 1/4" wide strip and give 2 wraps TIGHTLY on the threads. Be sure to wrap the tape in the right direction. The end of the tape strip should be pointing away from the direction you are tightening.

[Anonymous]

K&L rebuild kits for my 1981 550L's CV carbs included the pilot screw with the tiny o-ring/washer/spring. The kits did not include the o-rings for the tubes connecting the carbs: I bought these at an auto-parts store.

[debby]

which pilot screw? The air screw? Those orings are available from Suzuki. The fuel screw on the bottom is a different matter however. Suzuki doesn't even have a part number for them. I like the teflon tape idea. I think that's what I will do.

Hey Keith, any ideas for gettting those intake screws out? There's just no clearance in there for an impact wrench or anything. The only way I can see to get them loose is to take the head off. Then I could put it on a bench and get a clear shot at those stupid screws. I'm not about to do that any time soon though. Blah.

Debby

[KEITH KRAUSE]

"Intake screws". You mean the manifold screws, right?
With the carbs out you should be able use an impact screwdriver, unless yours has an odd shaped end that holds the bit. If that's the case, then you'll need a different driver or a longer bit.

[debby]

yes, the manifold screws. Impact driver doesn't fit, even with the carbs and airboot removed. There's just not enough clearance in there. Frame tubes get in the way. Maybe a stubby screwdriver with vicegrips clamped on the shank will work...

Debby

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Just be sure to use the best fitting screwdriver you can. I can offer one tip that may help. If you have a small 1/4" or so piece of solid rod, place that against the head of each screw and give it a solid hit with the regular claw hammer, then try removing them. A solid hit may help loosen any corrosion on the threads and it won't mess up the heads unless you really wacked it. And if you have any damage to the heads already, a solid hit can actually help re-form a phillips head screw and offer a better bite. Good luck!

[debby]

I got the manifold screws out!!! I used a variety of tactics. The impact driver got a few of them out. Needle-nosed vise grips (Earl's suggestion on another thread) got a couple more loose, and for the rest I just knocked them loose with a cold chisel. I had a small one at the bottom of the toolbox that was just right. They all had a lot of corrosion on the threads; I think that's what made them so stubborn. Now I can put in the new orings and some nice stainless allen head screws.

Debby