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~~~aCiD~~~~

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    ~~~aCiD~~~~

    nope not the good stuff.....
    but what about

    if i can't find any phosphoroc acid could i use some dilutied muric (hydrocloric acid). what would be a good ratio. i am just scared it will eat my tank to peices basiclly how long do you need to let sumtin sit in acid if it is heavily rusted before the rust is gone and how long would it take muric acid to destroy a tank.
    i was also thinking about dipping my seat pan to remove what rust was left that the stiff wire brush on a angle grinder missed. any thoughts?

    -ryan
    78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
    82 Kat 1000 Project
    05 CRF450x
    10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike

    P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.

    #2
    Ryan,

    This Rustol stuff might be worth a try.................http://www.sudco.com/rustol.html

    C-YA,
    Joe
    IBA# 24077
    '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
    '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
    '08 Yamaha WR250R

    "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

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      #3
      I have seen Fuel Tank Liner and Tank Prep Combo (part# 3152) advertised on the Dennis Kirk web site. I've never tried it, but it looks interesting. Link below:

      Comment


        #4
        The Kreem stuff has good and bad reviews. I think the bad results are due to poor preparation. Also, the Kreem uses VERY nasty chemicals. I did two tanks last year with the POR system which uses much gentler chemicals. So far I'm totally pleased with the results. It is a very time consuming process. Figure on an entire weekend (at least). Take your time and do it right!

        Joe
        IBA# 24077
        '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
        '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
        '08 Yamaha WR250R

        "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

        Comment


          #5
          i have used the creme on my 550 tank and i was looking for a cheaper way

          this is from a previous post i did
          where does one get some H3PO4 aka phosphoric acid, i need to do 3 tanks (inside and outside) and i don't want to spend the big bucks on 3 creme kits, i was thinking i acid wash the tank then take the tanks to a radiator shop to have them maybe wash em out agian then coat. my buddy did this to his h1 and it seems to have worked well.

          what do you guys think.

          -ryan
          78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
          82 Kat 1000 Project
          05 CRF450x
          10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike

          P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.

          Comment


            #6
            I'm all for doing it yourself but the $$ involved....may be better spent at a professional if its the same $$ since they have the experience and facilities.

            Comment


              #7
              hey where are all the chemists here. anybody have experince using muric acid to remove rust from things like exhausts, seat pans and gas tanks?

              -ryan
              78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
              82 Kat 1000 Project
              05 CRF450x
              10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike

              P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.

              Comment


                #8
                I'm a chemical engineer of sorts, that is an unemployed one. Anyway my answer is probably not going to help you much at all but its been my experience that HCl is pretty fast acting stuff. Of course the high the concentration of your solution the faster you are going to realize results in your tank/seat pan clean up. I would use a pretty well diluted solution just to be on the safe side. Perhaps look at some products on the shelf at the store and see what concentrations of Acid they have in them and try to match that. Also, when you are mixing it always add acid to water and not the other way around. As it was explained to me, "Water and HCl really like eachother and when 2 things that really like eachother get together, it gets hot."

                Comment


                  #9
                  Personally I would try looking hard for H3PO4 before trying muriatic acid. Try looking in parts stores that supply autobody shops for metal conditioner. I'm not sure what the chemistry is but H3PO4 is supposed to alter the surface of the metal so that future oxidation is retarded. For certain you can get this stuff on the web ( http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=177 for example). If you insist on muriatic be sure to use it in a well ventilated area. HCl (hydrochloric acid) is actually a gas that is dissolved in water so the vapors can be very dangerous.

                  Good luck.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I used a diluted muriatic acid solution to clean out an extremely rusted Honda CB-450 tank some years ago. It did a good job with the grunge in the tank...But. After flushing the tank with water and baking soda to neutralize any remaining acid and then with clear water left me with...a rusted tank. The damn thing would get a very fine, dusty layer of rust in it as it dried. Finally used a water based sealer right after flushing, as you can imagine results were marginal. Sealer started pealing off after about 2 years to reveal...a rusty tank. I don't reccomend muriatic acid as a tank cleaner...I hear it's great on concrete tho' :? .

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The rust you got is referred to as 'Flash rust' and is a common occurrence when metal is cleaned and etched. The POR-15 etching solution does the same thing and is only recommended if you seal the tank afterwards. The Rustol product claims to clean the rust out of the tank and leave a coating on the metal that prevents rust. Has anyone used the Rustol product? If so, can you please let us how it worked for you?

                      Thanks,
                      Joe
                      IBA# 24077
                      '15 BMW R1200GS Adventure
                      '07 Triumph Tiger 1050 ABS
                      '08 Yamaha WR250R

                      "Krusty's inner circle is a completely unorganized group of grumpy individuals uninterested in niceties like factual information. Our main purpose, in an unorganized fashion, is to do little more than engage in anecdotal stories and idle chit-chat while providing little or no actual useful information. And, of course, ride a lot and have tons of fun.....in a Krusty manner."

                      Comment


                        #12
                        check this discussion and the related infos



                        basically you are better off with a little acid wash, a blow dry and WD 40

                        Michel

                        81 1100E

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