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Trouble splitting the crank cases...

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    #1

    Trouble splitting the crank cases...

    I've got a second gear which is slipping badly in my 1981 GS550TX, so I'm working on tearing it down to drop in a "donor transmission". I've got it MOSTLY torn down, but currently stuck trying to get the cases split.

    I spent what my girlfriend estimates at about 2 hours whacking away at it with a rubber mallet. The back of the engine has split nicely, and I can crack it open and it splits all the way up to the front of the engine... but right, front and center, above the oil filter there is this alignment dowel that just does NOT want to let go.

    I sprayed some WD40 in there yesterday / last night... I'm going to see if I can find some PB blaster tonight...

    Any other suggestions? Or good swear words to use?

    ####?
    ####?
    or maybe
    ####?

    --Mitch
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    #2
    Double check for bolts both top and bottom

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      #3
      Thanks for the reminder. I've been over that a couple of times. I'll get a fresh look again tonight. Maybe post a picture or two.

      I'm SO sure it's that that dowel right now, though. I can split the back of the case like up to 1" free.

      There are 12mm head bolts along the crank, and 8 more along the case (in the front) and I've gotten all of those.

      When I put a nut/bolt into the little jack on the case on the front and snug it up a little bit, the clearances (which I test with a brass feeler gage) on the jack-side of that dowel *increase) where the clearances on the opposite side of the case decrease. :-/

      The clearance with no jack is about 0.08 inch right now across the whole front of the case.

      --Mitch

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        #4
        Mitch, do you have a shop manual? They often point out bolts that are overlooked when splitting cases. If it is the dowel pin, you are on the right track with the penetrating fluid. Sometimes a sacrifice to the transmission gear gods helps... 8O

        Hap

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          #5
          You've probably checked this, but there is also a couple of bolts under the oil pan.

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            #6
            No actual shop manual, but I've got the Clymer's. And I had to tear down a donor engine to get the donor transmission out ... On that one I didn't pay enough attention to the procedure and forgot about that one bolt that goes in from the top.

            And I learned a very important lesson about how much torque it takes to snap off one of those little jacks you can use with a bolt to help pry the cases apart.

            Turns out, the one bolt holding the crank case halves together wins the battle! Whoops...

            I resolve NOT to make the same mistake with the runner...

            Patience, and the PB Blaster will be my friends. And more whacking with the rubber mallet!

            --Mitch

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              #7
              VICTORY... or PARTIAL VICTORY anyway. Time, PB Blaster, and a propane torch applied around the dowel finally convinced it to let go. (with more whacking with the rubber mallet... which is starting to show some wear and tear).

              Now, the crank seal on the timing end doesn't want to let go of the bottom of the case. :-/ But that's going to be MUCH easier than this stupid rusty dowel. Woohoo!

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                #8
                on my bike,GS 650 GL ... behind the clutch plates is a semicircular bracket that surrounds the crank shaft and is connected to both top and bottom halfs of the crank case. You cant see it unless you take the clutch plates off.

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