Intake o-rings

[first timer]

take the impact bit and find a wrench or socket that it will fit into and just use that, you will have to push hard and make sure the bit is perpendicular to the screw and it should work also.

-ryan

[debby]

David,

I'm afraid I don't know what size the screws are! Threw out the old ones and don't have the info written down anywhere. My parts fiche doesn't say either. They're 6mm dia and the pitch matches the bolts at the hw store (no selection on that). Can you maybe remove one and get a ride from somebody? Sure is nice to have a sample part with you.

Debby

[Don Lobacz]

They are about the same size as an old battery screw. Surely you can find one of those around and see if it matches (yes I can, and don't call me Shirley again). I usually put blue loctite on the threads. Stainless steel will seize in aluminum (some people say even easier than regular steel) so at least put anti-seize on the threads. I use the small 5" vise-grips rather than the needle-nose vise-grips. A cold chisel will also work very well. If you get one screw out, you can then use the boot itself for leverage on the remaining screw. Put a screwdriver or small vise-grip on the remaining screw and tap the boot base with a rubber hammer so that it pivots around the remaining screw in an unscrewing manner. Voila! (hopefully).

[whodatpat]

How do you get the old flatened orings out of the carb boots. And what is this Hi temp grease that I am suposed to put on the new ones?
Patrick
1980 GS850G

[Billy Ricks]

And what is this Hi temp grease that I am suposed to put on the new ones?

If you're talking about the anti-seize lube it goes on the threads of the bolts. It's a silver paste to keep the bolt from reacting with the aluminum and getting stuck.

i am going out on a limb and say that only the 8v motors use a rubber boot that is bolted to the the head with a oring between the boot and head.

Quite a few of the 16 valve motors have bolt on manifolds with o-rings.