.... and now my damn clutch won't disengage!

[dwarf8]

1980 GS850G
Just changed all the fluids and then did the gaskests for the rocker cover and the breather to solve and oil leak.
When I drained the primary drive unit, the oil was milky. That usually means oil and water. Drained the final drive and it was a litle dark but great.
Changed the engine oil and filter.
I started up the bike on the centre stand just to make sure everything was hunky dory.
Pulled in the clutch, dropped it into 1st so the new gear oil would circulate and let the clutch go.
Rear wheel spins fine.
Pulled in the clutch but it doesn't feel right.
Applied the rear brake. Bike stalled. 8O
Re-adjusted clutch (I had the cable off to replace the gaskets) and ...
Same thing.
Even tightened as far as she'll go and the clutch doesn't disengage.
I used Castrol 10-40 bike oil.
I used Castrol 80 differential lube in the 2 gear boxes. It is a limited slip formula.

What's happening?
The clutch worked perfectly on disassembly.

[Anonymous]

Sticky crutch

I had this once, strangely enough also just after changing the oil.
Anyway, I just let the bike warm up in neutral and the clutch freed up and I've never seen it since.

[dwarf8]

Thanks Dusty.
I'll give it a try!!
I'm willing to try anything at this point.....

[Anonymous]

Have you tried to put it into gear on the ground? You probably don't have a problem. My clutch plates stick together every night. I get a little clunk sound every morning when I kick the 400 into gear with the tire on the floor since this breaks the clutch apart.

Steve

[crc1214]

You may need to make an adjustment to the clutch release mechanism. This winter when I removed the cover to paint it, I disassembled this mechanism and had a jolly good time trying to figure out how to get everything back in working order. Every thing I tried would not allow for proper tension on the clutch cable, and I couldn't shift at all. That is until I found out how to make an adjustment to the release mechanism itself.

I'll save you how to do it and what it entails until you try the suggestions that are posted thus far. Your symptoms don't sound entirely like the ones I had, so I'll spare you if you don't have to do it in the first place. It's not difficult though.

Let me know. It's not hard at all. It will take about 5 minutes of your time to do, and you only need about a 8mm wrench and a small screwdriver.

Chad
1978 GS550E

[Anonymous]

Chad, I'm having similar problems, could you tell me how to adjust the release mechanism? Thanks

[earlfor]

Its been a long time since I had a GS450, but the proceedure is pretty much the same regardless of the bike. (assuming the clutch cable enters at the left side countershaft sprocket cover, there is an activator rod for the clutch) If the cable is routed over the top of the transmission and connects on the right side engine case, then there is no rod in the mechanism and the following does not apply.


Barry, on your countershaft sprocket cover, you will see either a slotted bolt end with a jamb nut on it or you will see a small cover with probably three screws holding the cover. If so, under the cover you will find the slotted bolt and jamb nut. What you are adjusting is the activating rod's free end play. This rod is actually what operates your clutch. Your clutch lever puts pressure on the rod. so if there is too much free play, the barrel adjusters on the clutch cable cannot compensate for it. First, adjust your clutch cable barrel at the handlebar so there is plenty of slack in the cable and and the clutch lever flops loosly. Then, loosen the jamb nut on the end of the adjustment rod at the sprocket cover. With a slotted screwdriver, turn the bolt/rod in (clockwise) until you feel it seat lightly. Back the adjustment out about 1/2 turn. Keep the screwdriver in the slot so the rod will not rotate when you tighten the Jamb nut. Adjust the cable adjuster/barrel on the clutch lever/handlebar so that there is about 1/8" free play between the lever and the housing. You should be able to feel the clutch activate when you pull in the clutch lever,

Earl

Chad, I'm having similar problems, could you tell me how to adjust the release mechanism? Thanks

[Anonymous]

I thought that was all it was, thanks(again) Earl, so if I take the big cover off and push the rod myself shouldn't that work too?

[earlfor]

that will only work in your one finger is stronger than the combined resistance of all your clutch springs. :-) :-)

Earl

I thought that was all it was, thanks(again) Earl, so if I take the big cover off and push the rod myself shouldn't that work too?

[Anonymous]

i see, so could I push in with something stronger? or would that lead to breaking it?

[earlfor]

You wont break anything. Your just pushing on the end of a steel rod which is exactly what the clutch lever does. Just guessing at the pivot point of the clutch lever and the length of the lever and considering the small amount the rod needs to move in and out, I (a guess) think you would probably need to exert 30 to 50 lbs with your finger if it is directly on the rod. (dont wanna push the bike over) :-) :-)

Earl

i see, so could I push in with something stronger? or would that lead to breaking it?

[Anonymous]

Thanks Earl, I was thinking the same thing (pushing her over) especially when getting bolts out, but I think where the clutch rod is fairly low, I can give it quite a shove without too much worry, I'll be ready to grab the bike though and with the seat off, there's more to grip. On that note, I find when draining oil, I typically get on the ground on the left side of my bike. I think I'll swith to the right though, because if the drain bolt is tight, and I'm on the left, the wrench will actually pull the bike forward, not sure if I'd be able to pull her right off of the centre stand, but it's scary when you lying on the ground, and your newly painted bike shifts forward 8O
Thanks again

[earlfor]

I always remove the oil drain plug from the right side of the bike. :-)

Earl

[

[dwarf8]

Solution to the problem.....

Clutch sticking after transmission lube change...
I posted this up a week or so ago and I'm now posting the solution.
I changed the gear box oil on my 1980 GS850G.
The stuff I removed was milky and it didn't look healthy at all.
I refilled the front and rear drive units with Castrol 90 weight gear oil. It was limited slip type.
When I engaged the clutch with the bike on the centre stand, the rear wheel turned. When I applied the brakes, the bike stalled.

After all the adjustments were checked and the clutch opened and looked at, I came to the conclusion that it was just the viscosity of the gear oil.
I started the bike off the centre stand and with me on it and slipped it into gear.
With a mighty clunk, into first with the clutch in.
It tried to creep forward but I kept the brakes on and it stayed in place but the revs dipped.
Took it out for a drive.
Hard shifting for about 2 minutes but then it was much smoother than before the oil change.

I am going to replace the oil to a non limited slip formulation and re-test.
I will post at that time.