Engine mount bolt

[Anonymous]

Had a loose engine mount bolt - replaced with new from the factory - problem solved

[Anonymous]

guess

Just a couple of guesses:
Instead of following Suzuki specs see what the mfg recommends for torque.
Use gr. 8 (you are) and gr. 8 flats, not lockwashers, the only time lockwashers are any good is when the bolt actually comes loose, and lock nuts.
You say the bolts shear off at the frame tab, any thought of boring the hole in the frame tab slightly larger and using a bushing in the hole. The bushing would look something like a top hat, this would give more bearing area on the bolt instead of a concentrated force over the 1/8? thickness of the frame.
Looking at the pictures nothing seems to be out of alignment.
All I can think of....Mike

[Paul]

I have heard of it happening, but I can't for the life of me remember how to fix it - sorry.
I seem to remember you have to weld a support bolt/mounting between the rear of the engine & the frame.
But this was for very high horsepower engines in a street frame. (original pro-stock dragbikes)

Are all the other engine mount bolts tight?
What size bolt are you using to replace it? It must be a metric size, ie M10 not 3/8".

[cbxchris]

Take a jack and put under the engine. Loosen all the motor mount bolts. Jack up the engine slightly to get the engine resting on all the motor mounts. Have you inspected the rear mount area on your engine casing? I have seen many of these break especially in a a wreck. How many pounds of torque are you putting on that bolt? The stock bolt is probably only a grade 3 bolt. Let us know if you find anything.

[Einar J Skog]

Hi

I belive the bolts is a ,,,What suzuki call "7- bolt"

8mm bolts=2.5kg-m 18lb-ft
10mm bolt=3.5kg-m 25.5lb-ft
(this is from GS1000 service manual)