headlight delete switch

[Anonymous]

I am sure that some of you folks have done this, and I was unable to find it in a search. (prolly didn't enter the correct words) I would like to install a switch to turn off the headlights when starting the bike. I have had issues with the battery running out of juice too quickly, (I know, I already got a new one) and I figure if I can eliminate the headlight from taking up some of that precious juice, it would make more available for the bike to fire up. Do you just wire in a switch inline of the headlight wire? Or is it best to run a relay? If it is ok to use a regular switch, anyone have an idea as to how much amperage the halogen bulbs use? Can I just use a switch rated for that (or slightly higher) amperage and negate the relay? Its for the GK. with an afternarket halogen lamp from a Honda.
TIA

[Anonymous]

There are a couple of methods. Mine is to put a switch in the ground wire to the headlight. Its been working for months now. And then there is the method where relays are used to open the circuit during the time the starter relay is being engaged. I think HAP has the schematic for that.

[Detman101]

What I did with my bike was take the left hand controls off. If you take off the little switch that supposedly controls the on/off feature of the headlights you can see a little tab on the plastic switch part you move with your thumb/finger. If you grind that tab off with your dremel tool it will allow the switch to move and access the "OFF" function of the controls.
Unless we have different controls I would imagine that would work for you too.
I've got a 1981 GS750L.

Good luck,
Dm of mD

[lhanscom]

They stopped putting the switches on at all in the very early 80's, 81 was probably the last year.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the replys. I was concerned about possibly burning up the switch which is why I asked about the need for a relay. I'll keep looking into it for now.

[Anonymous]

since nobody will give me an answer on my thread "more brakes" if I can or cannot put 79ish 850 forks and brakes on my '83 650GL and if they would change anything(other than give me dual discs up front) if they do fit I feel inclined to reply in the same manor others have replied to my questions, that would be to ask why it takes so long to start your bike that it drains the battery? are you giving it choke? are your carbs in good shape and adjusted correctly(clean jets, correct fuel level, correct idle air jet settings, synced, probally some other stuff there I forget)? how bout your electrical connections from battery to starter? and is your charging system working well enough to keep the battery charged? if so you should be able to give it 3/4 choke or so and hit start.

it took me a couple days to go through all that stuff myself on mine and then figure out the best way to start it and now I just give it 1/2 to 3/4 choke and hit start and it fires up and purrs on its first revolution.

[Dink]

I came up with the same questions! Why is the battery being drained? How long co you need to crank the bie to get it to start? How much choke are you using? Have you cleaned out the carbs? especially the choke circuit? have they been synchronised?
And of cause, What voltage is the battery getting at idle?Have you cleaned every connection on the bike? etc
You should not be having this problem if everything else has been done and checked. As crazyguy said you should be able to walk up apply the choke and press the button once and only briefly at that an dhave it start right up.
Dink

[Anonymous]

I got a new battery and charged it. When I removed the old battery, I decided to do some of those things suggested. I poked around the wiring harness and connections a bit, and I discovered that the ground lead from the reg/rect was not connected. I checked my Clymer, and it states that some of the GS models have a ground wire from the reg/rect that should be connected to the battery ground, but not which ones. I looked at the wiring schematic, and it does not show a ground wire from there. I did some more prodding, and found another wire that was not connected. Needless to say, I am in the process of checking the entire harness to shore up all of the connections.
I have not done any work to the bike since I got it, (last spring) with the exception of new filter and fluids for the driveline. It has always been a bit hard to start, but so far this season it has been more difficult. I thought it might be a weak battery even though I have charged it completely twice so far this year alone. I have never been able to start the bike with less thatn full choke before, so that is what I normally do.
I will be doing a thorough cleaning of the carbs next, and a sync too. I will also be checking the alternator and associated electrical parts (charging system, coils, etc) just for peace of mind.
This was supposed to be a simple fix-it project that is turning out to be quite a bit more involved. Thats the way these things usually work Not complaining, just unexpected. I know that the bike will be tip-top after I go over it, so its best for me and the bike in the long run anyway

Again, thanks for the replies.

[Anonymous]

I put the new battery in, and made sure all of the connections were....connected . I also took a look at the plugs, and they did not look good. I put new plugs in her, and now the bike will turn over in less than 3 cranks!!!! 8) 8)
I did not touch the carbs (yet) might let that go since the bike is running very well. Maybe I will save that for the winter re-build project at the end of the season.