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Carb issue and gas coming from the breather....
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Okay, todays update,
I switched around plug wires 2 and 3. Road the bike and still fouled the plug on cylinder 3. Ive put new plug in cylinder 3 each time I try something different and still I get the same results. Ive switched to a hotter plug this time and will see if it helps along with the resync. Compression tested the cylinders and they were all pretty close to being equal. One thing im noticing again is the raw fuel coming from the breather and the front portion of the engine. Near the front valve assembly end caps. ( the chrome caps at the sides of the front top portion of the head). Im getting fuel outta both left and right front caps. Ive plugged off the vacume port from cylinder 2 just to make sure the fuel isnt coming from the petcock. It isnt a lot of fuel mind u. Cylinder 3 is the only one showing evidence of fouling. 1,2,4 all are showing a light tan to brown spark color. Also I can turn the air/fuel screw all the way in (lean it out) and still it will fuel foul the plug.
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
I would not try a hotter plug. This is just trying to compensate for the real problem.
Ok, let's go back a little. You say the bike was not running and you rebuilt the carbs. Everything is good except #3 is very rich. To this point it seems
certain the carb is the problem. Because you don't know the history of this bike's carbs, anything is possible. I'll try to mention as many idea's as I can, even if it's likely you've already checked it out. I don't have as much experience troubleshooting CV carbs but I'll do my best.
Is there any chance the carb is not stock? Does it look identical?
Did you replace anything regarding the jetting when you installed the rebuild kit? What parts did you replace? Are you sure every jet or part was identical to the other 3 kits? Are you certain all the parts that were NOT replaced are identical to each other and in similar condition? If all of this checks good, then you know you have all the right parts and all 4 are in good condition. O-rings should get special attention.
Next would involve adjustments and how things were re-assembled.
After cleaning the carbs, did you use compressed air to verify every passage is 100% clear? Even a partial blockage can cause problems. Give special attention to the pilot circuit. Are all jets tight? Is there any possibility you assembled the jet needle wrong? Are any spacer(s) or clips in the same order as the other carbs? Are the needles adjustable or fixed? Are all plates or springs in this area assembled the same as the other 3 carbs? Could you have put something back "upside down"? Is the rubber diaphragm in good shape and properly seated? I know you've set the floats and your float valve needles and seat sound like they're OK. You've also checked the choke plunger. Your mixture screw should be set similar to the others. Is this mixture screw IDENTICAL to the others? Your 2 float bowl vent lines should be clear. You say the carbs were synched well. On a bike that was not running, your rubber manifold o-rings should have been replaced and coated with hi-temp' bearing grease and torqued to 6 ft/lb.
You'll need to change that oil ASAP. If I can think of something else, I'll post it.
Good luck and let us know what you find.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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Anonymous
Okay,
Whelp today has brought about some interesting developments. I pulled the carbs back off today and went thru them again. Again I didn't find anything messed up or outta place or missing. So I went back to looking at other possible causes. Well I decided to do the compression test again and went to grab my old tester. Thats when I noticed something funny. The needle on the tester was stuck at 118psi. After banging it around a bit I got it unstuck. So I went to Autozone and picked up a new one. Whelp cyl 1 was at 121 psi. Cyl 2
at 95 psi. Cyl 3 at 59 psi. Cyl 4 at 120 psi. I rechecked again and got same readings.Thoughs numbers are with the throttle closed. With the throttle open cyl 3 reads 89 psi instead of 60psi. So I guess we have found my rich condition on cyl 3 cause. This wasn't the answer I was hoping to find. I'm going to fill the cylinder with compressed air and try to listen for were the air is leaking out. I believe it to be a valve problem and not a compression ring . Keith thank you so much for your input, your time, and your patience. By the way bike has only 22,000 miles.
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
Well at least you'll find the problem and get it fixed soon.
Live and learn. :roll:And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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Anonymous
Went by the motocyle shop today. Spoke with there Suzuki mech and was told problem is prolly due to improper valve clearence. Am gonna check and possibly reshim the top end. I may get lucky and have this thing running good.
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my 1000 had a similar problem, what was wrong was the intake valve had crap on it and wasn't seating all the way, so i took the carbs off and spray a bunch of car clean down the intake port on to the valve, then pulled all the plugs and turn the motor over and sprayed more carb cleaner in it. that helped. i then put everthing back together changed the oil, run the bike and spray more carb cleaner into the carb while running it pretty hi and that cleaned it up the rest of the way.
-ryan78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
82 Kat 1000 Project
05 CRF450x
10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike
P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
Originally posted by WigglespankWent by the motocyle shop today. Spoke with there Suzuki mech and was told problem is prolly due to improper valve clearence. Am gonna check and possibly reshim the top end. I may get lucky and have this thing running good.
Be sure the motor has sat overnight before checking clearances, or maybe you knew that? If you need help with the procedure, let us know.
If you get shims at a Suzuki/Kawasaki dealer, make sure they give you Suzuki shims (29.5mm). The Kawa's are smaller (29mm). I once wasted a 50 mile round trip to a dealer learning this lesson. At least I noticed the difference and did'nt install them.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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Anonymous
Well I pulled the valve cover off today and check the clearence on cylinder 3.
Exhaust was fine, I was able to spin the top of the shim/lifter. The intake on the other hand seems to be too tight. I wasn't able to spin it or move it at all.
So it looks like that is the cause of all my problems. I'm going to get some shims for this thing and go thru all 8 valves. I also filled the cylinder with marvel mystery oil last night and let it sit overnight just to make sure I have covered all the bases with this thing but I'm confident the valve clearence is the culprit. Keith you mentioned something about a procedure, If you could dig it up I would greatly appreciate it. Ive order a manual ( I realize im a litte late on doing this considering all I've gone thru with this bike sofar) but better late then never. Anyway manual won't be here till next week. So I could really use the online help with this procedure.
Thanks again for all you guys time and help with this!!!!
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Anonymous
Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSEOriginally posted by WigglespankWent by the motocyle shop today. Spoke with there Suzuki mech and was told problem is prolly due to improper valve clearence. Am gonna check and possibly reshim the top end. I may get lucky and have this thing running good.
Be sure the motor has sat overnight before checking clearances, or maybe you knew that? If you need help with the procedure, let us know.
If you get shims at a Suzuki/Kawasaki dealer, make sure they give you Suzuki shims (29.5mm). The Kawa's are smaller (29mm). I once wasted a 50 mile round trip to a dealer learning this lesson. At least I noticed the difference and did'nt install them.
I could sure use help with the procedure......
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
OK. The clearances can only be checked with the cam lobes pointing at 12:00, 9:00, or 3:00. As you follow this procedure, you will see which one's are checked at 12:00, 9:00 and which are at 3:00. Just follow this procedure and you will do the least amount of turning the crank. The motor must be stone cold. Here's how to adjust tappet clearances. This is from my factory Suzuki manual, '79 GS1000E. My clearance spec's are to be within 0.03-0.08mm (0.001-0.003"). Check for your 550's specific spec's. READ ALL THIS INFO FIRST BEFORE DOING THE JOB.
Turn your crank in the normal running direction with a 19mm wrench, (don't turn the smaller bolt at the very end of your crank). Turn the crank until EX cam #1 points to 9:00, at this time check the clearances of EX #1 and #2. Set the clearances to spec'.
Now turn the crank 180 degrees (1/2 rotation) until the IN cam #1 points to 12:00, at this time check the clearances of IN #1 and #2. Set the clearances to spec'.
Turn the crank another 180 degrees until the EX cam #4 points to 3:00, at this time check the clearances of EX #3 and #4. Set the clearances.
Turn the crank another 180 degrees until the IN cam #4 points to 12:00, at this time check the clearances of IN #3 and #4. Set the clearances. I always go through the whole thing again and double check my clearances.
You'll need the tappet depressor tool to push down the tappets.
You first turn the tappet until its notch faces you. Then you push down the tappet with the tool. Pick out and change the shim. Put a light coat of oil on the "new" shim before installing. Be sure to set the tool correctly. It's a bit difficult to explain without a picture.
There are thickness #'s on the shims. If they are installed right (with the #'s facing down) the number won't get worn off. If they are worn off, you have to measure for yourself. The shims graduate in thicknesses such as 2.50, 2.55, 2.60... They also sell shims that are "fat". These have an "X" after the #. A 2.50X shim will actually be 2.52 or 2.53mm? This can help you make better adjustments as you'll learn later. You may be lucky and be able to swap existing shims around and save yourself some $. It's good to write down what size shims are in the bike so the next time you'll have an idea of what you can swap and what you may have to buy. Some shops will trade and not charge you.
Before actually doing the job and making changes, you may want to take each shim out an check/write down it's size so you know what you've got and what can be swapped?
A tip I've learned at GSR is put a very light coat of bearing grease on the new cover gasket and it will come off much easier the next time and this also helps the gasket seal better.
My last note on this is in regards to the "12:00, 9:00, 3:00" cam lobe positions. These are not TRUE /EXACT positions. If I could show you the pictures you would easily see what I mean. (Maybe someone here can help with a pic'?) The motor slants slightly forward, so the top of the head is not actually level. The idea ( in regards to the 9:00 and 3:00 positions) is to make the very tip of the cam lobe PARALLEL with the slight slant of the head. In regards to the 12:00 position, the very tip of the cam lobe is actually at a 90 degree angle from the top of the "slanted" head. I hope this is'nt too confusing.
Too simply say 12:00, 9;00, etc, is pretty darn close however.
Hope this helps. I'm a very slow 1 finger typist so this took me a while.
Let me know if you need more help.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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Anonymous
Thanks very much for the info KEITH !!!.
By the way were can I find this "tool" for the shims?
Or might it be something I already have......
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
Originally posted by WigglespankThanks very much for the info KEITH !!!.
By the way were can I find this "tool" for the shims?
Or might it be something I already have......
I know the Suzuki dealer sells them but they're expensive.
This was brought up a while back and several members found where you could buy the tool for around $30?
Post a topic for the tool and I'll bet you'll get help. I suppose you could post it in the "Technical Section". I believe it's correct name is a Tappet depressor tool.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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HERE YOU GO, ITS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WEBSITE.
-RYAN78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
82 Kat 1000 Project
05 CRF450x
10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike
P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.
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Anonymous
Whelp the bike is all better!!!!!!
I pulled the old shim out and swapped it for a smaller one. After playing with the figures and my slide caliper I figure my intake was open when cold at by about 2thousandths of an inch. When hot it would be open even further which
would explain the problems im having. When I get the bike back together Ill re-sync the carbs again and put some fresh plugs in. Thanks soo much KEITH
and First for all your help..... I really appreciate it.
Thanks again,
Mike
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