More questions

[Anonymous]

Hey guys, me, yet again, I still haven't got the bike running. Here's the update. It hold oil, that's a plus, but it was only firing on one cylinder before today, that's a minus. Me and dad got out there with one of his ancient automotive books and troubleshot(is that a word) the ignition system. Both coils work, I can switch them and the left cylinder still fires and the right one still doesn't. So we checked resistance and continuity through all of the coil wires and etc. Everything checks out. Somewhere along the line we fired her up and it started backfiring every so often, I assume on the right(dead) cylinder. Here's the thing, my right plug, doesn't want to go in all the way. We're hoping that that's the problem. The plug should be able to go in most of the way by hand, and then just tighten it up with a wrench. But the right side the plug only goes in a few turns by hand, and you can tighten it a few more with a wrench, but I've not wanted to really reak havoc upon it and end up stripping the engine head. Dad doesn't have the right sized tap and die so I think a trip to Canadian Tire is in order. On another not, I'm running NGK DR8ES-L plugs whereas my Clymer says I should have B8ES plugs. The difference is the B-14mm thread/D-12mm thread and the R-resistor model, and the L - half heat range. Any clues on this? Did the previous owner strip the head and put in a sleeve? Thanks all,

[earlfor]

Re: More questions

Barry, the best bet is probably to go to Ca tire and buy a spark plug thread chaser. It looks like a spark plug end with slots in the threads.
I would go back to the correct B8ES plugs.

Earl

Hey guys, me, yet again, I still haven't got the bike running. Here's the update. It hold oil, that's a plus, but it was only firing on one cylinder before today, that's a minus. Me and dad got out there with one of his ancient automotive books and troubleshot(is that a word) the ignition system. Both coils work, I can switch them and the left cylinder still fires and the right one still doesn't. So we checked resistance and continuity through all of the coil wires and etc. Everything checks out. Somewhere along the line we fired her up and it started backfiring every so often, I assume on the right(dead) cylinder. Here's the thing, my right plug, doesn't want to go in all the way. We're hoping that that's the problem. The plug should be able to go in most of the way by hand, and then just tighten it up with a wrench. But the right side the plug only goes in a few turns by hand, and you can tighten it a few more with a wrench, but I've not wanted to really reak havoc upon it and end up stripping the engine head. Dad doesn't have the right sized tap and die so I think a trip to Canadian Tire is in order. On another not, I'm running NGK DR8ES-L plugs whereas my Clymer says I should have B8ES plugs. The difference is the B-14mm thread/D-12mm thread and the R-resistor model, and the L - half heat range. Any clues on this? Did the previous owner strip the head and put in a sleeve? Thanks all,

[Anonymous]

Hey Earl, thanks for the reply. I got up early today(expecting to due some burning but DNR said no go) and went to town. Realised that I could make it to Mclean Powersports before they closed at one, so I went, asked about a replacement petcock, $130!!! A guy who works in the service dept. there I knew who has a parts 400 was standing there, he wanted $20. "How much for the whole bike?" says I, "$100", medium story short, I got the bike. It's an 86400E or S, the frame says E, the body work says S. Anyways, couldn't get a tap or a thread chaser, so dad carefully ground out some slots on an old spark plug and filed them smooth and we used that. The plug went in with a lot of coaxing and we believe it worked, since both pipes got hot and it didn't sound like it was backfiring. Anyways that problem out of the way I moved on to changing petcocks, worked ok, until I went to hook it up, the replacement petcock was mounted midtank whereas mine was mounted at the back, so the ends were on the wrong side and my tubing is too short, I think I have a piece that will work for the vaccum but it's off to find one for the fuel tomorrow. Anyways, I'm optimistic that that will solve the problems, and I can soak up some of this beautiful riding weather. Wish me luck,

[Anonymous]

Yippee, the bike runs!.....sort of. Ok, got the fuel lines worked out, the "new" petcock leaks so I'm going to pick up a cheap in-line for now and pay for a new pingel I think. So that problem I can solve.

Now the right cylinder the trouble one, is colder than the left. What I mean is the exhaust is a lot cooler to touch after a minute of running. Both cylinders are running, I'm sure of that, but the left's hotter. Does that mean one cylinder is rich or lean? And the other is not? How do I correct this?

Also, on the parts bike, the front brakes are single disk with a thing I've never seen before. The bolt into the caliper has the line coming from the master cylinder and one going to the thing mounted on the other side of the same fork tube. Is that an "antidive" device, what's it do? Is it worth switching over to my running bike?

Thanks for eveything guys, if the weather's decent tomorrow I'll be riding, I took it for a test drive (1km up the road and back) today and it was the funnest thing I've done since riding a GT Snowracer at 90km/hr on ice this winter.

[Dave_A]

Re: More questions

The difference is the B-14mm thread/D-12mm thread

That might be the problem...

[Dave_A]

Yippee, the bike runs!.....sort of. Ok,
Also, on the parts bike, the front brakes are single disk with a thing I've never seen before. .

450s and (I presume) 400s are single disc from the facotry...

[Anonymous]

I don't think the plugs are the problem, my parts bike has the same size in it. And Clymer is not always accurate. As far as the brakes go, does anyone else have any ideas what that thing is? Thanks,

[Anonymous]

It could be the ignitor, it's the box on the left hand side of the frame that says ignitor on it. Are you sure it's a spark problem? If you have a week spark on one side only and it stays when switching the coils I would bet on the ignitor or the pickups. The box should be interchangable between both bikes since all it does is amplify the pick up circuit and vary the spark timing. If your ignitor is dead it's probably because of an over-charging problem or ground issue, etc.

The antidive isn't a big deal, I would be more concerned about getting the bike running and riding it. If your forks have new oil in them and don't leak you'll be fine unless you weigh 300 pounds.

Steve

[Anonymous]

Thanks steve, my dad thought it might be the igniter, but the two don't look the same, I'll see if they have the same connections and whether or not I can fit it in there. Here's hoping. Oh, and I pulled a wheelie today, it was wet so I only did the one, so there's inspiration for you, and I do weight close to 300, maybe. Well, 250 or so, haven't seen a scale in awhile. So you guys think that's an anti dive unit? If so, what's it do?

[Anonymous]

If you're doing wheelies it isn't the ignitor. You're bike is geared a bit differently than mine since I've got big tires on mine and different sprockets but I've never come close. If I could get 1200 bucks for my bike it would be gone in a heartbeat, got any cash? :twisted: :twisted: I've all but given up on the 400, I want 1100 CCs of fury. It's got new tires, newish chain and sprockets, new shocks and fork seals, plus it's been abused to the point of nearly exploding and looks like crap to boot. hehe

Cheers, Steve