Torque wrench question

[jskellington]

Just got my silicone valve cover gasket from Real Gasket in Tennessee to fit my 1978 GS1000. I found a Sears Craftsman 3/8 inch drive torque wrench calibrated from 5 to 80 ft. lbs. at about 90 bucks retail.

My question: is this a versatile enough torque wrench for other work on my bike or should I throw down some more money for a bigger wrench?

Thanks,

Jack

[chuckycheese]

Torque

I'd phone the service department at a bike shop and ask them....they'd know the answer to that one, for sure. Also, if you're thinking you may just need it for that job...for now, quite a few of the auto parts stores have tool loan programs...places like NAPA, Kragen, etc. You could go in there, buy a case of oil and I bet they'd be happy to help you out!

[Anonymous]

Throw down some money for a smaller wrench. Especially one calibrated in inch-pounds. A tremendous number of the fasteners go to 7 foot-pouds MAX, and the torque wrench is usually most accurate in the middle of the torque wrench's range.

Harrison

[Anonymous]

My question: is this a versatile enough torque wrench for other work on my bike or should I throw down some more money for a bigger wrench?

You will need a smaller wrench, not bigger. The biggest torque required on my ZX-9 is about 80ft*lb (I think it is) for the axles and everything else is less. Mostly WAY less. You could use the wrench mentioned for bigger fasteners, but you should get a smaller one that runs from 0-200in*lb for the smaller stuff.

The dial type are the most accurate, but not cheap and are sensitive to operator technique. Also they are not that convenient when trying to torque a fastener in an awkward location. The click type are most common, but require frequent calibration to maintain accuracy. They are also the most convenient for the awkward to reach stuff. The beam type are good if calibrated and used carefully and are very inexpensive. They have the same issues as the dial type wrenches regarding technique and hard to reach places.

Mark

[10yeareer]

I have a couple of torque wrenchs. However, I usually find myself using this one on my motorycles.


Only 19.99 and it measures from 0-75 ft-lbs.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944690000

[Hap Call]

I believe that the Real Gasket requires about 15 inch-pounds. That is less than 2 foot-pounds of torque. If you try to use the 5 to 80 ft-lb wrench you will not get accurate results.

Inch-pound torque wrenches normally go down to 25 in-lbs. There are some that go down lower but they are VERY expensive and hard to find. I would tighten the bolts finger tight and maybe a 1/8 turn beyond but that would be all.


Hap

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I have a Sears Craftsman 5-80. It will do the majority of the bike. The smaller carb hardware can require 3 ft/lb, etc. For these I rely on experience/feel. No problems.
For that silicone gasket, I would do like Hap says. Just finger tight and then a bit more. If it leaks anywhere, give it a little more. It'll stop.
PS: I never thought I'd answer another torque wrench question!

[Planecrazy]

Haha! I was watching to see if you would "weigh in", Keith!

Steve 8)

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yep. I'm here. Still clickin'.....I mean tickin'!

[Anonymous]

What do you guys usually torque? There's a spec for everything but I usually only torque stuff like the cam cover and cam caps. If it isn't in the engine or bolted to it I don't bother. If something comes loose instead of torquing it I toss on some blue loctite.

Steve

[focus frenzy]

If something comes loose instead of torquing it I toss on some blue loctite.

Steve

AH! a future Harley owner in the making!! LOL

[Anonymous]

You got me Leon! I just bought a D401 Harley Davidson branded tire for my 1100. On top of that, the 1100 I own was traded in for a Harley! hehehehehe

Steve

[Anonymous]

What do you guys usually torque? There's a spec for everything but I usually only torque stuff like the cam cover and cam caps. If it isn't in the engine or bolted to it I don't bother. If something comes loose instead of torquing it I toss on some blue loctite.

If there is a torque spec I use it. They are there for a reason, especially on brake components, the countershaft sprocket nut, the rear sprocket nuts, and anything else that will cause serious issues if it comes loose while I am cranked over in a turn. I find it especially important to follow the values for the smaller fasteners. The last time I installed new pads in my front calipers, I found the mounting bolt torque was WAY less than I would have done by "feel" and I may have risked twisting a bolt off with possibly dire consequences. I don't find it that time consuming or difficult to pull out the wrench and take a few seconds longer on most fasteners, compared to twisting off a bolt and the resultant hassles getting it out...As always, YMMV 8)

And I use a lot of the blue Loctite, too, Steve.

Mark

[mdole]

For my 750 the Real Gasket torque was about 9 inch pounds. I bought a Park deflection beam torque wrench that works pretty well. Bicycle shops or on-line stores are the best source for Parks.

I also have a 0-150 ft-lb old Craftsman deflection beam, and a Craftsman 5-80 ft- lb microadjusting torque wrench.

These pretty well cover all of my needs.

Mike

[dwarf8]

I use a torque wrench for everything that has a spec. I guess someone thought it was important.

I can get 3/8 drive, low range, "set and click" torque wrenches for about $40 Cdn. at Princess Auto.
If anyone's interested, let me know.
They are back ordered at the moment but they expect more in 2 weeks.

Mine has worked great so far.