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    #1

    cam timing

    Hello All,

    Can someone please HELP ME

    I tried to set my cam timing agin, and this time I belive that I am too far advanced on the exhaust cam.

    I thought that this would be an easy procedure, for most but apparently not for me.

    I have tried to follow ClyMers to a "t", but have not had much luck, now the bike will not even start, although I did get some nice flames out the carbs. :P

    I have tried setting the exhaust cam arrow #1 I believe to run parralel to the cam cover gasket base surface (Ithought that this was my first mistake), then I tired setting it to 1-2 mm below this as advised as a potential spot by Clymers, to no avail. I have tired inbetween these two points, but it does not seem to be an option. (although I was tired at this point 10:30 pm).

    Can someone who has set the cams up on their 79 gs850 advise me in this procedure. I thought that a manual would be help enough, but apparently I need more explicit instructions than this.

    I am attempting to set my cams as I have completed a top end rebuild.

    The proble,m that I originally had was that all four carbs were running rich and fouling, despite all other adjustments and cleaning I had done to the carbs.

    Yours truly in too far advanced cam timing
    Tags: None
    #2
    I shouldn?t be that complicated to get your exhaust cam timing right.
    I only have experience from the GS1150, but I hope these lines are
    helpfull for you anyway.

    Turn the crank so that the T on the ignition plate and the stationary mark
    lines up. The pistons on cylinders 1 and 4 should be at TDC at that point.
    Position the exhaust cam with the number 1 facing forward, as you decribed.
    Make sure that all cam chain slack is at the rear, where the chain tensioner is.
    The digits 2/3 on the sprocket should point upwards. Position the intake cams
    also with the 2/3 facing upwards, and your done. To be sure, rotate the crank
    two complete revolutions and check that all things line up again, after fitting the
    tensioner, that is.

    I assume that you are using the standard non-adjustable cam chain sprockets.
    In that case it is not possible to adjust the cams in 1-2 mm increments, as you
    describe, since it is only possible to change the cam position by a link at the time.

    / Mikael

    Comment

      #3
      What Mikael posted pretty much sums it up except that there are a certain number of chain pins that have to be between the arrows on the sprockets as well.

      Comment

        #4
        four black plugs

        Originally posted by Billy Ricks
        What Mikael posted pretty much sums it up except that there are a certain number of chain pins that have to be between the arrows on the sprockets as well.
        Well,
        I re did the cam again (third time), the bike now runs and will idle, which it wouldn't do before. But the plugs still foul, although I can see a nice tan colour underneath all of the carbon build up (new plugs).

        Any ideas? I have reset the timing with a light. Perfect. Maybe now I should concentrate on fuel screws and air screws? The fuel screws are set 1 3/4 turns out, and air screws are set 1/2 turn out.

        I can't bear to go back under the cam cover and try and reset the cams again, I am hoping that since the bike will idle my cams are dialed in fine. Or will it now idle because I have new plugs in it?

        1979 gs 850 vm 26mm Mikuni's 110 mains, 17.5 pilot jets, needle raised dont remeber how far. Pods on each carb. Stock 4 into 2 with the baffels removed.

        Yes the carbs are CLEAN

        This bike ran great before top end rebuild. (tan plugs)


        Thanx

        Comment

          #5
          Re: four black plugs

          Originally posted by quietone
          Originally posted by Billy Ricks
          What Mikael posted pretty much sums it up except that there are a certain number of chain pins that have to be between the arrows on the sprockets as well.
          Well,
          I re did the cam again (third time), the bike now runs and will idle, which it wouldn't do before. But the plugs still foul, although I can see a nice tan colour underneath all of the carbon build up (new plugs).

          Any ideas? I have reset the timing with a light. Perfect. Maybe now I should concentrate on fuel screws and air screws? The fuel screws are set 1 3/4 turns out, and air screws are set 1/2 turn out.

          I can't bear to go back under the cam cover and try and reset the cams again, I am hoping that since the bike will idle my cams are dialed in fine. Or will it now idle because I have new plugs in it?

          1979 gs 850 vm 26mm Mikuni's 110 mains, 17.5 pilot jets, needle raised dont remeber how far. Pods on each carb. Stock 4 into 2 with the baffels removed.

          Yes the carbs are CLEAN

          This bike ran great before top end rebuild. (tan plugs)


          Thanx

          Comment

            #6
            I'm confused :?
            In one spot you say the bike ran great with tan plugs before the top end rebuild and now it runs very rich. In another, you say that the top end rebuild was done to get rid of a rich problem. Which is it?
            Sounds to me like simple carb issues and adjustments. Never had the cam chain off from any of my bikes. Unless the valves weren't seating, causing loss of compression, I can't see why you would want to do the top end.
            I could be wrong but that is the only reason that a plug would foul due to anything in the top end.
            There, I opened my big mouth and didn't help you a bit did I? Love to help but I don't know all the facts (or answers either) LOL Bob

            Comment

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