white plugs

**chuckycheese** · 05-04-2004, 12:41 PM

Gap

I don't think the plug gap or the gas octane have anything to do with it. You could try "richening" it up a little with your air screws. It would probably run a little bit cooler and maybe a little better, too!

Oh, and of course, make sure you're running the proper plugs!

By the way, do you ever notice that the rev's come down somewhat slower than they should when it's in neutral (or when the clutch is engaged)?

**crc1214** · 05-06-2004, 10:50 AM

No, I think the RPM's come down pretty quick when I'm in neutral or when the clutch is engaged.

I have noticed that I need to leave the choke slightly up for a while when it's warming up before a ride, and then I leave it there for about 5 minutes into the ride, or it will stall when I stop at a light. After that warm-up period though, its just fine.

I have noticed something that might be causing (or at least not helping) the problem. It has an in-line fuel filter on it, and looks pretty old. I'll bet it hasn't been changed in years. My guess is that it may be restricting feul flow a bit and messing up my fuel/air ratio. I'm going to replace it with a new, put in my new NGK plugs, and see if that helps any.

I'll let you know in about a week.

Thanks for your help.

Chad

**chuckycheese** · 05-06-2004, 11:46 AM

Choke

Interesting...I also think the fact that you need to use your choke for so long is indicative of a lean running bike (since the choke restricts airflow). Another factor, of course, is how warm the weather is. 8)

I doubt changing the fuel filter will solve your problem but it's probably a good idea, anyway. Let us know what happens.

**crc1214** · 05-10-2004, 09:20 PM

Well, I changed the filter and turned in the screws 1/4 turn. Took it out for about 200 miles this weekend, pulled the plugs tonight and they were still white. I'll try more of a drastic change to the screw settings (like maybe turn an additional full turn and go from there. It's hard to believe that the plugs were dark and black when I got the bike, and I haven't changed anything in the engine/carbs/ignition. Could it maybe be that the previous owner was just taking it way to easy on the bike? I don't drive it hard, but I do like to get up and go. I'm 220 lbs, and it's a 550, so I have to push it a bit. Man I wish I would have got a 750 or even a 1000. It's alright though. This is my first bike, and I never have even driven a 750 or 1000, so I don't have anything to compare my little 550 to. It does just fine I guess for now, and I've even thought about keeping it forever (78 is the year I was born, and it's kind of a cool feeling riding on something as old as you are!)

Anyhow, I probably won't ride for another week or two, but I will definetely let you know the progress. I can't wait until I get these plugs looking nice and tan for summer!!!!!!!!1

**Billy Ricks** · 05-10-2004, 09:33 PM

An easy thing to try is running regular unleaded. Higher octane actually runs leaner than regular. If that doesn't work you need to start from scratch on your base settings for the air and fuel screws. Check out this thread, http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ic.php?t=21534, it might help you. You might need to raise the jet needle on the slide.

**KEITH KRAUSE** · 05-11-2004, 12:21 AM

It sounds like the bike sat for a while (from last winter to recently?)
You say you did'nt touch anything but the plugs have gone from darker to nearly white. You also need more choke than you did before. You're obviously running lean.
If the bike is idling around 1,100-1,300 rpm when warmed up, you're OK.
If it's higher than that, and you have correct throttle cable slack, then I would suspect the o-rings in the manifolds. Also, check the manifold clamps for tight.
If you don't have an intake leak, then I think the carbs pilot circuits varnished up or plugged up while sitting. If you clean and blow out the pilot jets and the pilot circuit passages, clean the floats/float valves and seats, I think it will run good again. I don't know which "screw" you adjusted, but put it back to where it was. You should not need to turn the pilot screws (underneath). They don't move themselves, so they are not the problem. The side air screws should always be adjusted to achieve the highest rpm possible and then the idle set down correctly by adjusting the idle screwknob. Warm up the bike first and then turn 2 screws "at a time" in 1/2 turn increments to more easily hear the rpm's. Fine tune your adjustments by not turning the screws any as soon as your hear the rpm's stop rising. Do this to all 4 and set the idle correctly with the screwknob.
Remove the fuel filter too. The petcock filter is all you need unless you've got rusty tank problems. These add-on filters cause a lot of members here nothing but trouble.

**crc1214** · 05-11-2004, 10:01 PM

Thanks for the responses guys. Here's the plan. By the way the screws that I adjusted were indeed the air screws. I'll start by adjusting these the way that you described Keith. I do remember adjusting the idle screwknob at the beginning of the season, but to tell you the truth I don't really remember if it was because the bike was running too high or too low. It's set at about 1300 right now (based on the tach on the bike that is). After that, I'll try running regular unleaded. And of course I will check the intakes for loose screws/holes/etc. If that doesn't work, I guess its carb cleaning time!

It's going to rain here in Columbus for the next 2 weeks!!!!!!! I'll get out when I can and get back here when I can for an update.

Again, thanks for the suggestions.

Chad

white plugs

white plugs

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